I find that difficult to believe. The blade part. And the beautiful part. A sharp blade is important for turfgrass, not just because of the quality of the cut (it helps to provide a pleasing, finished appearance). A dull blade tends to shred the grass ends, versus a clean straight cut that heals over quickly. This is a factor in diseases that become established in turfgrass and difficult to manage. I usually sharpen the blade a few times a season although it’s even easier to run a draw file for a few strokes after every mow. Then it stays reasonably sharp without even having to remove it.
The riding mower I change at the end of the season when I do all the other winterizing-type stuff.
The push mower I change at the beginning of the season.
You’re supposed to change the oil?
Bottom of the line Canadian Tire gas mower - going on twelve seasons with the original oil.
I send my John Deere riding mower out for maintenance every other year. That’s about 50 hours. They change the oil.
I do check my oil almost every time I mow now. My dad had the same mower that I have and wasn’t aware of his low oil and the engine blew up.
I have a Honda 5013(big ass lawntractor/small farm tractor thing) that I bought new in 1991. Never changed or added oil, but I do check it every few weeks during the season. Still looks clean and feels appropriately viscous. Whatever Honda put in it that year is the stuff of miracles, no way I’m getting rid of it.
I have not sharpened the blade either in 10 years, but sometimes feel guilty but not enough to do it. No problem with grass plague.
I do not sharpen the blade, but I have replaced a few when they’ve become chipped.
I won’t sharpen a blade. New ones aren’t expensive.
I have people who do that.
We have a lawn mower we bought from Montgomery Wards approx. 25 years ago. I have no idea who made it. All it says on the deck is “Power Kraft Ultimate 3 in 1” It has a 5 HP Briggs & Stratton engine. I would get it tuned up every 2 years and they would change the oil for me. It has always been a ‘pull-n-go’ machine. It would start on the first pull, always, until last year. So I had it tuned up, and it still has trouble. This year I thought I’d do the plug, filter, and oil myself but I can’t figure out how to drain the oil, unless I’m supposed to just turn it upside down and drain it out of the filler hole. There is no other plug anywhere that I can find.
Does anyone make an electric mower yet that’s worthwhile?
New ones aren’t sharpened, either.
They’re as sharp as they need to be to cut grass. if it makes your dick hard to sharpen yours to a razor edge that will get fucked the first time you use it, wank away. You, with your mowers that last 30 years because you also change the oil 3x/season.
Most aren’t, mine are. Mine takes 3 blades at about $25 each. It’s worth it to take them off and sharpen them every year or two to get more life out of them. I do have a bench grinder and blade balancer that makes it a pretty quick task.
A lot might depend on what part of the country you live in and how often you need to cut the grass. Much of the year I’m mowing every 4 days, but it can get dry enough in the summer so weekly or less often is required.
I change my oil at the start of every season, in addition to putting in a new spark plug, air filter, and blade. I might get 5 years out of the average mower (I have about 1/3 acre lot).
I change the plug and oil every 2nd year.
The foam air filter needs to be cleaned at least twice every summer. Use hot water and detergent in a basin. Add three drops of oil to the filter after washing and work it into the foam with your fingers.
The crazy thing is that the wheels on my mower are wearing out. They are plastic, and after 15 seasons, the axle-holes are getting wobbled out. To replace them would cost a whopping $75 total.
For a mower that cost about $120 to begin with.
It’s hard to justify the time and expense of oil changes if foregoing them still allows the engine to outlive the wheels.
My dad taught small engine repair at the Vo Tech for 14 years. I learned a lot working on mowers with him. He loved servicing the old 2 cycle lawnboy mowers. The best and most reliable mowers ever made.
Another tip. Pay attention to the dirty side of the foam air filter. Never turn it inwards. Even after washing it. The dirty side should face out.
Otherwise you risk sucking dirt particles directly into the engine.
I could be wrong, but I was under the impression that they’re sharpened, but then painted. So you can either have it ‘sharpened’ right away to grind off the paint and expose the steel or you can just let that happen on it’s own over the first few times you use it.
I’m really bad about replacing or sharpening mine, but when I do, my grass looks much nicer.
We take ours to a local Amish guy who does small engine work - I think we average every other year. He gives it a good going-over, changing what needs to be changed, adjusting as required, and sharpening or replaced the blades as required. We’ve had this John Deere close to 10 years.
We’re also on our 3rd (I think) push mower, and it’s small enough that we can put it on the workbench and service it ourselves. It only gets maybe 5 hours a month, less if I’m feeling lazy about doing the ditch. I don’t recall the last time we changed it, but I do check periodically to make sure it’s not too dirty or thick.
Once a year, if that often. I oughta sharpen the blades that often but it’s a pain to take the deck off to get to them.