I’ve thrown a rod with another vehicle before. I ended up having to get another engine for it. If that’s the case with my car now then I’m f***ed. Hopefully I can diagnose and fix this problem myself. If it turns out I need to replace the engine then I might just sell it for scrap instead. I’m leaning toward what whuckfistle said about the gasket. I believe it’s something worse then that.
My friend offered the following suggestion. I thought I’ll post it here to see what you guys thought of it
First I should take head and head gasket out. Then I should take head to a machine shop where they can test for cracks and fix if need be. Then I replace the head along with a new head gasket.
So what do you think? Is this a viable or premature solution?
Just to let everyone know, I have not started recklessly taking parts off. I’m giving to make damn sure I know what the problem is before I take the head out (if at all). So for the time being my car is just sitting out there waiting for me. I guess I got a little intimidated after I removed the valve cover and intake manifold plenum :).
When I threw the number 2 rod on my last vehicle, it was from driving around with no oil in it. I know oil is not a problem with my current car (I learned my lesson the hard way) but could a broken water pump/ no coolant lead to the same thing?
Could you elaborate on that a little more please? I’m hoping not but that might be what’s wrong with my car.
t-keela, my car cranks but doesn’t start. The starter engages but the engine wouldn’t turn on. I checked the timing belt but it looked fine. Let me know if you have any other questions.
What Herman and Bill means is that if you get enough water in the combustion chamber you can damage the moving parts that are trying to compress upon the mixture in that chamber. Water (and or oil) does not compress so well. Trying to compress it can cause parts to break and a rod is a part.
Is the engine froze up completely like T-Keela said?
Is the battery OK, and will the engine turn over?
Get a good battery in there and or jump the car. Get the engine to turn over and listen for any strange noises or a really uneven rotation.
Have you drained the oil yet?
If you want I`ll be passing through Georgia in about 11 months, and I can give it a looksee.
Honestly cletus, my gut is telling me that you may be jumping a few steps forward here by talking about head jobs and engine replacement. I think you need to go back to square 1 and regroup.
Have you tried spraying some either/engine start into the intake? Turn the car over while your buddy sprays the ether in. Don’t spray it into the filter! And you don’t need but a second or two of spray to do the job. Take the filter out and spray straight into the intake. Does it fire up for a little while (seconds) and run on the ether? If it does then you have a problem with fuel not getting in there, if it doesn’t then you do not have spark getting to the cylinders. This is a very good basic test that will take 2 minutes to do and you may get all giddy when/if the car starts turning over when you spray the ether in there, but it will stop running shortly after so don’t get too happy.
Go and try this $2 test today and report back. Seriously, something tells me that a piece of the puzzle is missing here. I think it may be simpler than you think. The fact that it is not even pretending to fire up has me thinking its a fuel or spark problem.
This thread is beginning to remind me of a cartoon I recall from the early 60’s. Picture a big room with a computer that takes up one entire wall. Group of guys in white lab coats are tearing one part of huge computer apart. Over in the corner a maid walks out from behind computer with a electrical cord and asks “Could this be the problem?”
I’m with Stinkpalm and Whuckfistle and say that it is time to do some serious diagnostics before you tear the engine apart. Unless of course you just want the experience.
From the very first book I ever read on auto repair.
*“Fuel, air, spark at the right place at the right time”. * To this I would add in the correct amount. If the car does not start is because one of those is missing. (I lump compression under air BTW)
So start with the basics Is there gas in the gas tank? ( I once had a car towed in that another shop had diagnosed as a bad computer. Car was out of gas) Is the gas good? (No water in it) didn’t buy diesel fuel by mistake did you?
Does the fuel pump work? Does it put out the correct pressure? (Dead FP will prevent the car from starting)
Is there oil in the coolant, or coolant in the oil?
Is there spark when the engine is cranked? Have you done a compression test? What are the results?
These are just some of the questions that need to be answered so that an accurate diagnosis can be done
Okay, so apparently we have a problem w/ diagnostics. I hate to go back to square one but here goes.
First things first. What does the vehicle do when a good battery or jump is applied? If nothing, then there are a series if things you should do first to find out why.
Is the battery or charge sufficient? Are the connections to the battery and starter solid? Is the starter good?
If so, then…
First…will the engine turn over at all. If you can make it rotate then it’s NOT seized. Meaning there’s hope.
Second…when you drained the oil, what did you find. If oil & water then it’s at least a blown head gasket. If oil & parts then a thrown rod or something similar. Metal shavings doesn’t necessarily mean a damned thing and besides many oil pans will have a magnet in the dump to gather all the shaving so you wouldn’t find them anyway unless you actually pulled the pan.
third…motor is free…no parts or oil in the pan…
if we are at this point, then, is there an obvious water or oil leak around the head? If so then, we are at least looking at a blown head gasket. Which is only a “leak” so to speak. Simple mechanics, pull and replace.
We’ll get back to starting the vehicle when these thing are established.
Sorry if I come across as an asshole. I don’t mean to be. But, we have to start somewhere! AND thusfar, I don’t even know what we have at this time. Besides a car that won’t start because of a waterpump.
Sorry guys, I hit submit when I meant to hit preview…so the post may have some chronological problems at the least. Anyway, what do we KNOW so far…anybody?
Ummm… I don’t think my car even HAS a electrical cord.
Unfortunately, I’m working all weekend so I wouldn’t get the chance to work on my car until at least monday. The first thing I’m gonna do is go down to Autozone and get me a can of ether. I promise Stinkpalm :). If it works for lawnmowers then it’s worth a try on cars.
t-keela, I’m fairly sure the problem isn’t electricity. I can still turn on headlights and radio. I can also hear the starter engaging when I turn the key. I don’t know if this means my spark plugs are fine or not. However, the engine itself doesn’t turn over at all. The starter doesn’t seem to be going any faster then normal either. I’m gonna check all the belts since I’ve got this valve cover off anyways. I’ll let you know as to the rest of your list on monday.
Ummm… I don’t think my car even HAS a electrical cord.
Unfortunately, I’m working all weekend so I wouldn’t get the chance to work on my car until at least monday. The first thing I’m gonna do is go down to Autozone and get me a can of ether. I promise Stinkpalm :). I remember your trick worked on my lawnmowers so it’s worth a shot.
t-keela, I’m fairly sure the problem isn’t electricity. I can still turn on headlights and radio. I can also hear the starter engaging when I turn the key. I don’t know if this means my spark plugs are fine or not. However, the engine itself doesn’t turn over at all. The starter doesn’t seem to be going any faster then normal either. I’m gonna check all the belts since I’ve got this valve cover off anyways. I’ll let you know as to the rest of your list on monday.