I would do that, too.
That’s something I’d have to get somebody to do - I’ve done some little electronics projects with soldering, and I’ve done really simple household wiring jobs, but I just don’t feel familiar enough with whatever’s going on in here to take it on myself. So where do you find somebody to fix this thing?
Neat looking stereo, but I would be very cautious about plugging it in. Perhaps you can find a local vintage radio group to help you out? You also might be able to find a manual or circuit diagram online if you look hard.
My concerns involve disconnected and broken wires - and the loose tube. The white wire that you though might be from the turntable has a standard “DIN” connector, but who knows which socket it should use. At the lower left, near the power socket there seems to be a white wire broken insulation - possibly from a transformer. Also, what is with all the 300 ohm twin lead? Is that a coiled up antenna?
Was it sold with a claim to be in working order?
Yes, they said they plugged it in and played it often in the shop.
Zsofia what you have is a standard AC interlock cord. These were required in the US until the early 80’s. The cord was attached to the back panel. Like this. Removing the panel would unplug the cord. It was a safety feature to prevent the unit from operating without the back panel installed.
The cord could be removed from the panel. Usually a metal clip could be taken off. A few had it riveted to the panel.
Those cords are hard to find. Here’s one source that I found for you.
http://www.electronicplus.com/prodSearch.asp?prod_search=S-W105&Submit=Search
Thats a non polarized. The two holes are the same size. Check your old cord and make sure thats what you have.
Here’s the back panel of an old radio with the interlock cord. There’s a metal clip (on the back side) attaching that cord to the panel. Remove the panel and that kills power to the radio. A Safety feature.
I always had several cheater cords in my toolkit. I needed to check the tv with the back off anytime I made service calls. A cheater cord saved me the hassle of removing the cord from the back cover.
Somebody has already discarded your back panel. Replace your cord and you should be ok.
Yep, that’s the thing itself.
You could try a “boombox” cord on your stereo. Those have the same hole spacing as the old interlock/cheater cords do.
Ace has it. Safety interlock, the cord would be connected to the back panel and only loosely fit into the plug. Common on old radios and TV sets.
A super fun prank to pull on someone was to take the panel off, put clear nail polish on the exposed pins, and the put it back. Then the owner of said set gets all pissed off and opens up the back to figure out what was wrong and gets shocked across the heart by a beer can sized capacitor and dies. Hilarity!
Here’s a polarized plug. Note that the holes are slightly different sizes.
But I’m pretty sure your vintage radio has a non-polarized. Just double check your old cord.
It’s definitely non-polarized. I’d left a message with the seller about the cord - come to think of it, when I hear back from them I should ask if, by the way, they might have a motherfucking back to this thing? That would be CONVENIENT?
you may have to make your own back and you can even mount the cord to function as a safety interlock cord. the material that backs were could break with age depending on their environment or how they were handled.
Heres a used cord that might work. Just in case that other supplier is out of stock.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-ELECTRIC-WHITE-CORD-7A-125V-/110973327465?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item19d6869869
I’m just amazed at how hard these cords are to find. Makes me feel a bit old. I replaced dozens of these cords when I did service work in the 80’s.
As for that broken insulation on that wire, which I hadn’t noticed (thanks) is that the sort of thing one can safely tape up, or does it need to be replaced?
I’d tape it - but with caution not to crack any other insulation (which might be pretty fragile due to age).
A quick google search didn’t show any vintage radio clubs in your area (if you are still in SC). I’m sure there are dedicated vintage radio forums you could join and get specific help.
Yeah, but I like you guys.
There’s no forced polarity as is the case for most vintage electronics, but if you have a choice you want to plug it in so the chassis or death cap is on the neutral side.
Mdcastle mentioned exactly the bit that really worries me. The death cap. This isn’t a mushroom, but rather a very dangerous bit of design that is common with tube based electronics from this era. It was common to float the power input, but in order to get some noise immunity, to tie the chassis to the neutral via a capacitor. If this capacitor fails it can short the chassis to the power wire. If the plug is reversed, or the house has an all too common wiring error reversing the live and neutral, this can lead to a live chassis, and a potentially fatal accident.
I would want to seriously look at having the device rewired so that it uses either an IEC socket, or has a captive mains lead, and has a properly grounded chassis. It just isn’t worth risking electrocution, either of yourselves or your wee critters.
Something like .01 uF? I think they had a fairly high voltage rating, though.
This unit is a good candidate for restoration. Typically they replace all the paper capacitors, electrolytics (if theres any hum), weak tubes, and realign the radio. Optionally, they can refinish a wood case, or polish up a Bakelite one.
By request they also can fix any grounding issues and install a polarized plug.
I knew a guy that did this type of work. He specialized in shortwave radio repair and restored old vintage radios. He moved a couple years ago and I don’t have his new number.
Google shows quite a few hits under “radio restoration”.