Also remember that if the interior lights come on if the doors open. It’s possible that the problem relates to the switchs that detect if a door is open. ALthough for the life of me I figure out how that relates to the turn signals unless a couple wires got cut in one event.
And on many cars, the fuel mixture is controlled by process controller that “learns” what the proper mixture for optimum performance is, removing power to it would reset it and it would have to “re-learn”.
Also handy, if you took the time to read my first sentence the logical error should be glaringly obvious.
And I am providing helpful information, in that I am preventing others from listening to your harmful information.
Well August, I hit a button combo that posted my message before it was complete. In
order to check fuses, doesn’t one have to take them out? I take them out to look at
them. I don’t know about the fuel thing. At any rate, the OP was just giving a WAG, so
I can give a WAG too.
Searching the net brings up what others have posted, e.g.:
(one forum you can ask at: http://forums.vmag.com/cherokee199/)
http://www.offroadexchange.com/jeep/
“I have a 98 G.C. The turn signals quit working yesterday. I checked the fuse, it was burnt so I replaced it. Signals worked fine for a couple hours and quit again. Replaced fuse again and they worked for a few hours and blew another fuse. Also, according to my wife on the phone today the compass and temp in the overhead console are’nt working and the “Check Engine” light is on and won’t go off…”
That’s one way to check them. It’s usually pretty reliable with modern plug-in fuses, but often not with the older glass tube type.
The better way to check them is with a test light. It avoids interrupting a keep-alive memory circuit, lets you know if there is power to the fuse, and is quicker than removal and reinstallation.
Wow, overwhelming response!
I just wanted to thank everyone for their research and helpful information. When the problem is solved, I will post in this thread, what the source and solution was.
Melanie
Yeah the glass fuses, sometimes they have an open in them, but the filament may be really thin (depending on its amperage rating). Often times there is a small break that people with crappy eyesight like me can’t “eyeball” it. A test light would be best.
Hey, at least handy was trying to help…while the method may not be the most accurate, it’s not as harmful as some of the other advice I’ve seen some other people give in these forums (i.e. disconnecting the battery while engine is running to test alternator, etc.). Relearning the fuel mixture is not a big production on most makes (unless you have one of those Oldsmobiles where you had to reset idle learn everytime the battery was disconnected…and in this case, it’s not).
Good luck Melanie, hope you find it soon (and diagnosis doesn’t cost too much).