Or how about the Boston Harbor Islands? You take a boat tour to get there, and you can explore the old fort on George’s Island, as well as swim off Lovell’s. If you’re ambitious, you can even go farther, to one of the islands closer to the open ocean. Of course, if you’re already taking the ferry to Provincetown, you might feel boated out.
Also, I should point out that Durgin Park is chancy. You may end up hating it. Is the food even supposed to be good there? Some of it – like the coffee jello – is basically uneatable by intent.
I was on this last year and thought it was fun.Art’s Dune Tours
Commercial and Standish Streets
Provincetown, MA 02657
Tel: 508-487-1950/800-894-1951
Daily: One-hour trips, 1 1/2-hour sunset trips
Rates: $12 - $15
In operation since 1947, this unique tour takes you through the National Seashore Park, where you’ll see impressive dunes and dune shacks. The first such shack was built in 1794 as a refuge for shipwrecked sailors. Four of the shacks are available to artists and writers who receive residencies through a lottery system. Some notable tenants include Jack Kerouac, e.e. Cummings, Eugene O’Neill, Norman Mailer and Jackson Pollack. (For information on membership, contact P.O. Box 1705, Provincetown, MA, 02657.)from the Travel Channel’s P-town Page.
It’s more beachy than woodsy. It’s an artsy sort of place, and for those not aware of it, is probably best known for its large gay community. As one of my Cape-dwelling friends put it, “The guys’ end is all happy and colorful, the girls’ end is dark and oppressive.” I didn’t really see it that way on my previous visits, but I don’t live there. Personal recommendation there is the Lobster Pot, not only for the Portuguese soup, but fantabulous desserts. I hope it’s still there, it’s been a while, but I can’t imagine that it wouldn’t be.
If you decide to do Salem (more towards my 'hood) now’s the time to do it, way too crowded at Halloween time. In addition to the House of 7 Gables & Witch Museum, check out Pickering Wharf. (Anyone interested in going there, feel free to e-mail me.)
If you head up to Cape Ann, I also highly recommend stopping at the Clam Box on Rte 1A in Ipswich - if you’d going midweek the lines shouldn’t be too bad. They don’t take credit cards but you can easily get dinner for two for around $25 (no alcohol is served, though you can bring your own if so inclined) unless you go for, say, the Fisherman’s Platter, in which case you should seriously consider sharing anyway. You’d have to have a truly prodigious appetite to finish the whole thing in one sitting.
There’s loads of other stuff to check out along the way, particularly if you go up the coast rather than route 95/Maine Turnpike. Mrs Skeptic might enjoy the outlet shopping in Kittery also. Or try Yankee magazine, which is always full of New Englandish stuff to see and do.
Wolfgrrl-Can you suggest an alternate route from Boston to Kennebunkport. I would like to avoid the turnpike I think. I am under the impression that non turnpike routes are more scenic. Should I just buy a local map and take the secondary routes? Or is there a specific route you recommend.
Never mind the route directions wolfgrrl, I jus checked a map. Sheesh there are a lot more roads on the east coast. Here in California you usually just picke the freeway going the direction you want. Looks like the east coast offers many more options.
Does it sound reasonable for me to hit Gloucester and Salem on the way to Kennebunkport?
Route 1 will get you there nearly as directly as 95, it’ll take a bit longer but does have some nicer views (I apologize for the nine-mile strip mall that is the Revere-Lynnfield stretch) and is a lot easier to jump off and on if you want to make stops along the way. You might want to get the local map too just in case, since even if you decide what you’d like to check out in advance, Mapquest can get pretty screwy in this area (for example, they seem to not recognize route 97 at all). I’ll try to think of more suggestions when I get home from work, or e-mail me if you have specific questions. I’ve lived in this area my whole life and was a delivery driver for a long time, so I can be handy with directions at times.
Oh - and after dinner at Durgin Park, downstairs at the Black Horse Tavern they used to have $1.25 Coors Light drafts. Sure, it’s crap beer, but my last job was high-stress and low pay, so we loved the place! They had a great R&B band one time when I was there too. I’m back in the 'burbs now though so haven’t been in about a year.
Route 1A is more scenic, but takes 3 times as long. If you do it at night, you’ll get a real kick out of Saugus, which is like the Vegas of New England. It’s the perfect distraction from the very dangerous road.
To Maine, I don’t know. Route 1/128 to Rockport is barely over an hour. By 1A it’s sometimes taken us well over two. It really depends on the time of day.
One of Boston’s best-kept gems is the Mapparium at the Christian Science Church. It used to be free, and you could spend as much time as you wanted. Now you have to buy a ticket. Still well worth it.
The “Duck Tour” or “Old Town Trolley” offer excellent tours with very voluble guides; Boston has a staggering amount of history beneath its streets if that’s your bag. If you happen to like graves, and it’s a nice day, take a walk in the Mt. Auburn Cemetary, in Cambridge-you’ll recognize a lot of the names.
You’re several years too late to take advantage of the bar that used to be located on the 6th floor of the control tower at Logan airport…pity.
The North End has several rather nice italian restaurants and is good for people watching; I’m sure others can give you some names (I don’t get out much).
The Museum of Fine Arts, the Symphony/Pops (if they’re playing), Fenway, Haymarket…gee…I forgot how much stuff there is to do here!!
Yeah, I wouldn’t take 1A the whole way either - if you felt inclined to visit the North Shore I’d say take route 1 from Boston, then 114 to Salem, and take route 1A from there up to Salisbury. From my house (in Beverly) to the Clam Box is rarely more than 40 minutes, probably less mid-week. Then maybe another 20-30 minutes from there to Salisbury (unless you stop at White Farms Ice Cream for dessert - usually very good, but they can be iffy sometimes, and there’s LOADS of mosquitos), where you can get back on route 1 or even 95 if you so choose.
Another place I usually visit a couple of times a year is Russell Orchards, which sells fresh fruits and veggies as well as baked goods, homemade condiments like jams, syrups, and herbs, and has its own winery that uses the orchard’s own (non-grape) fruits. I think the cherry tastes a bit like cough syrup, but I love the red currant and blueberry varieties as well as the ciders, and in any case they’ll let you taste before you buy. The prices aren’t bad, last time I was there I think the most expensive bottle was $17 with most in the $12-15 range. Some of their food can be pretty pricy though, and the cider donuts aren’t as good if they’re not taking them right out of the fryer when you’re there. This is before Clam Box if you’re headed north, but they also sell Richardson’s ice cream which I prefer to White Farms. The stand at the orchard only carries a dozen or so flavors, the actual Richardson’s dairy is on rt 114 in Middleton. Warning: I love Richardson’s, but they have their own cows and in summer, well, you can smell them if the wind is blowing the right (wrong?) way.
Anyway, that’s about all I could think of to add overnight.
If you haven’t been there before, I’d suggest walking around Boston – see the Common, Newbury Street, the Freedom Trail, Faneiul Hall and Quincy Market Place the Mapparium (as noted above) if your feet hold out. You can grab the red line to Hardvard and see Harvard Square – worth it for street performerrs and interesting shops.
Outside of Boston, I’d recommend Salem – it’s small and there’s a lot to it – much more than the witch stuff. There’s an entire Pioneer Village tucked away there most people don’t know about. There’s a Pirate Museum, and a Children’s Museum, half a dozen Witch Museums, and the incredibly expanded Peabody-Essex Museum. There’s the Witchy Memorial and the new statue of Elizabeth Montgomery. And the fake Irish Pub.
Hey all! Just got back. Thanks for all the suggestions. I am still amazed by how beautifull New England is. I mean Boston is a fantastic city. I did not have nearly enough time to see it. I walkied the Freedom Trail and saw many of the things suggested here like Fanuil Hall, the cemetaries and the Commons. The Frog Pond was empty though. Then Drove up to Maine. Stopped in Portsmouth for lunch (mmmm Lobster). In Kennebunkport we went sailing on a 60 foot schooner. It is a pretty little town. Had a great meal at a place called the White Barn Inn. The place I stayed was spitting distance from walker point. It was all I could do not to drop by and protest something.
I could not believe how many Dunkin Donut shops were around. On the way out of Boston I counted 14 of them on Route 1A between Logan and I95. Seems like there is one on every corner.
All in all it was a great trip. I am so in love with the area I am seriously considering relocating. Anybody know the Mass. Bar requirement for admission?
Sheesh, forgot the Ferry to Province Town. What a fantastic little town. But I don’t think I have ever seen so many pissed off looking women with butch haircuts and so many good looking happy in shape guys in one place before.
