Have you noticed a difference on the pitching temperature of the wort? Seriously, if it isn’t hot enough to kill the yeast, does it make a material difference.
[hijack]I happen to have several pounds of Yak Butter sitting in my fridge. Had a corporate offsite in Zhongdian (aka gyalthang aka Shangri-la) 3 weeks ago and bought a big block. Also had a nice yak butter tea party with some lama’s and my customers. [/hijack]
I’m starting up too! We got our tax refund, so we’ll be stopping by the homebrew place later today. I think I know enough about what I need to avoid the hard sell there. I’ve canned a lot of food before, so I don’t think this should be too much different. Thanks for all the great advice.
MsMitey, the cheapest way to get started is with a plastic carboy (those 5 gallon things that bottled water comes in these days), cork, airlock, can of malt, 2 oz of hops, siphon hose & clamp, a bottle capper and caps. Those starter kits most places sell are a big waste of money - but you probably don’t want to shell out for decent equipment until you know you’ll be making a lot more beer.
I discovered the plastic carboy thing many years ago when stuck in asia with no source for supplies and one of those gawd awful food grade plastic brewing containers lids got vacume sealed and I had to cut it off. I get a plastic carboy full of mineral water, pour out about half the water to boil the wort in, pour it back in, cork that sucker and 2 weeks later it’s ready to bottle. Done literally 100+ batches in the plastic carboy and it makes good beer. (of course, if I had the space and could get the supplies easily, I would have some decent equipment)
If you’ve made bread, then you know how yeast works too.
This thread inspired me to make my first batch in about 6 months. Just pre-pitched the yeast to get it started and will brewup in the morning. I’ll be using the Chinese hops, which are pretty dried out (but I’ve got about 5 pounds worth so I’m sure it will be hoppy), and into the plastic carboy.
My husband and I have a family membership - discounts at our local homebrew shop, happy hour prices all the time at our favorite brewpub, a subscription to zymurgy, and other benefits.
The happy hour prices at the pub alone is worth it for us.
We’re heading to the brewing supply shop in an hour or so for more supplies. I think my husband wants to try to make a Double IPA, and we’re diving into home winemaking.
I like your DIY rig, ChinaGuy. Couple quick questions though - can I just pick up a one-way valve at the hardware store, stick it in the cork, and put that on the bottle for the fermentation, or did you mean something fancier by airlock? Also, are the siphon and clamp for the bottling phase or for another part of the process? And can I just use tubing and such from the hardware store?
Not only do we get to homebrew, we get to build stuff too! This rocks.
airlock = one way value. I use the cheapo 99cent version (plastic S shaped thingy). Siphon and clamp for bottling. Tubing should be food grade plastic.
You ever really want to make a party, make up a batch of mead and bottle it in beer bottles.
Collect keys before distributing.
Hilarity ensues. People tend to think things in beer bottles are 3-5% alchohol, good mead yeasts can get into the 15-20% range. You know you did it right when they decide maybe they shouldn’t want a second bottle if they want to drive home.
for you first time homebrewers - relax, don’t worry, have a homebrew. Beer is extremely forgiving. An extra pound or two of malt, missing a pound of malt so substitue honey, boil wort for 45 minutes or 90 minutes, an extra ounce of hops, forgeting to add hops in the last 5 minutes – you’ll still come out with good beer. You can get away without a thermometer or hydrometer - heck just bottle the weekend after you notice fermentation is complete
Sure any of the above will alter the taste of the beer but it won’t ruin it. You’ll still have really good beer. A lot of the uber techniques result in minor incremental improvements to the flavor (and frankly you might not think it tastes better). Some brewers are going for something very specific and repeatable and are rigorously scientific about making everything perfect - and that’s cool. Alternatively, others (like me) brew occaisionally when we can and with what we’ve got. There is no wrong or right way, and I think the posters in this board would agree that we’re talking the difference is probably “good beer” versus “damn good beer” (and not “bad beer” versus “good beer”).
Sanitation is key though. Lack thereof will ruin any beer.
Boil overs - everyone experiences these at least once. When the wort first comes to a boil, there is a tendancy to foam up over the brewpot. Keep a glass of cold water handy and dump it in when you see this happen. Usually only does the foam up thing once per batch but you’ve got to catch it or have a big mess.
Today I made beer with 3 pounds of dark malt that’s been sitting in the storage for at least 2 years, added two different kinds of honey to make up an additional 2 pounds of fermentable 'cause that’s what’s in the house. I probably used a pound of hops because my wife’s relatives sent me a huge bag of dried out hops - i kept adding more and more until finally getting some hop effect. You know what, if it isn’t hopped when fermentation dies down, I’ll brew up a hop tea and add to it. If it’s undrinkably hoppy, then I’ll just mix it with some commercially brewed beer and make that stuff drinkable. No idea what it’s going to taste like but it will be good, and then I can brag about Chinese hops.
Anyhoo, the point is that beer brewing is incredibly forgiving and the results usually great.
As long as we’re talking about taking plunges, I’m taking the plunge into all-grain brewing. I bought on of these so that I can mash, sparge and boil in my brewpot without having to buy a bunch of extra equipment. I’m making an IPA next weekend. If anyone’s intrested, the recipe I worked out and the rest of my homebrew blogging are on the Beer! page of my website. Wish me luck!
As far as the wort cooling is concerned, the difference is that I’m not taking a chance on any sort of bacteria infecting my brew. It also saves me a ton of time. I went from about 1 hour to chill down to less than 5 minutes.
Cool story about the Yak Butter.
Also, I think much of what has been said here depends on what type of beer drinker you are. If you like any old swill, then I think you could do just about anything with your brew–and it would taste good to you.
If you are used to the good stuff (like me), then you won’t settle for something that tastes like it came out of a leather shoe.
The brewing part is very rewarding, and fun–but if the final product sucks, then I feel like I have wasted my time.
I’ll let you all know how my Scotch Ale turns out in about 6 weeks.
Hey all… I have been fermenting… well, not what I would call wine… lol but lets say Fermented fruit juices for many months now.
I once tried Beer from a cheap kit I got at christmas. Instead of malt I used granulated Sugar cause it said that was fine… Oh gag it was gross.
during my ahh… wine… fun, hey its better then pruno! I’ve made friends with my supercool homebrew store guy. I have a homebrew store a mile away from me but the owner acted disintrested in me and when I went to the store I now frequent thats almost 20 miles away, I was welcomed and greeted in the best way. He acted like he WANTED to help me… lol not just hang out with the other experienced.
So Check out your HomeBrew Shops… you might get lucky.
ANYWAY! I’m looking to start a REAL Beer Brew… I would appreciate any good beginner Wort recipies… I will be brewing in a small 2 1/2 batch but if you let me know in 5 gallon I will half it correctly… THANKS!!!
Yeah, you might get lucky. “Lucky” being the operative. Regardless, you’ll pay too much 90% of the time.
I stand by this IPA. Ignore the warnings… brew two batches… or download the pdf and halve it. Real beer is… real beer. There’s a very good a chance you’ll cream your jeans when you first try this brew.
that looks perfect… I think I will get that.
Question… since everything is for 5 gallon batches and my setup is 2 1/2 gallons. Anybody ever boil your wort and then freeze half of it 'till next time?
I know I pay a little more at my local homebrew store, but I figure I make it up in not paying for shipping, plus the opportunities to pick the brains of the guys who work there, taste the grains and smell the hops, and drop by any time the whim strikes me.