It’s not bad, and I agree that it has a different flavour than some of his other books. Unfortunately (without mentioning any spoilers) it has a plot twist that’s even clunkier than usual because he changed his mind about something partway through.
I finished Waverley; I liked it, although the main character was kind of a bland guy who almost everyone loves for no particular reason. It was picturesque and funny, though. Now I’m reading The Three Musketeers and I think it will be similarly breezy.