No gearing between the prop and crankshaft.
Here’s a mid WWI rotary (not radial) engine Le Rhône 9J - Wikipedia . 9 cylinders, 900 cubic inches and 5:1 compression. The prop blade lever arm would be 2-1/2ish feet where you grip it out of a ~6 foot total diameter.
Here’s a typical late WWI V-type engine. Around 700 cubic inches and around 5:1 compression. Hispano-Suiza 8 - Wikipedia. The prop lever arm would be similar or a few inches bigger at most.
As engines got bigger at and immediately after WWI but before the advent of electrical systems they invented an inertia starter. In this system a crewman used a hand crank to spin up a heavy flywheel over, say, 30 seconds of cranking. Then he’d step aside and the pilot would engage a clutch that connected the flywheel to the crankshaft to spin the engine for at most a few revs before the flywheel ran down. Lather, rinse, repeat as necessary. But it was far safer and more reliable than hand-propping.
These engines Pratt & Whitney R-985 Wasp Junior - Wikipedia and Lycoming R-680 - Wikipedia dates from the interwar years.
They were equipped with an inertia or electric starter and generally swung a 4ish foot blade giving an 8-9 foot prop diameter and a 3 to 3-1/2 foot lever arm for hand-propping when necessary.
I have hand propped one of these Pratts on an airplane with a dead battery. That was not one of the smartest risk/reward decisions in my life. The effort required isn’t all that high even for a smallish guy like me. It takes a good hard pull, but it’s not a gut-busting one time effort.
The hard part is the prop hub and hence horizontal blade you’re grasping is about 7-1/2 to 8 feet above the ground, so you’re working on almost tiptoes to get enough hand onto the blade to get a good grip. Because the airplane is a taildragger, the prop arc tilts back which means it sticks out towards your knees. So you have to lean *into *it to swing it, but then immediately back away from it to avoid being killed when it pops, farts, or starts. Hope you don’t fall forwards into it.
Hook your fingertips over an interior doorway’s top moulding and try to yank it down off the wall while standing with your feet back about 18-24". That’ll give you a feel for the ergonomics. Now imagine the door was about 8" taller.