Looking for a tool but don’t know what it is called.

[Dag_Otto]

@enipla

Sheeeessss. All to paint the bathroom.:rolleyes:

Um, not to hijack the thread, but why did you need to remove the shower handle? Do you paint the fiberglass?

[enipla]

@Joey_P

It’s possible you fused the two parts together when you drilled the set screw out. Either by melting them or mechanically, when you cleared the handle, the the burrs from the edge pushed up into the top hole or you just didn’t get all of the screw out. You could try going at it with the drill again. Get the bit in there, spinning at the highest speed and then wiggle the drill around like you would when you’re trying to make a hole a bit bigger. It might not be the problem, but it could be part of it.

Also, now that I think of it, while I do think that getting some Liquid Wrench on there is a good idea, power tools are going to make sparks. So maybe, one or the other. If there’s not play whatsoever, I’d probably go with power tools first.

Yea, I started with a small bit to take out the set screw. Ended up going up to a 1/4" bit. Wiggled it around a lot as I was also worried that burrs got pushed in.

It seemed to pull off about 1/8 inch, and is stuck. Won’t go in or out at this point. I’ll have a fresh start in the morning. It’s gonna be a busy day though, I have a sick dog that needs to see the vet (probably just a bladder infection).

[Gary_T]

I don’t think it’s going to crack off as easily as you’d like. Presumably that handle’s hole is filled with the faucet spindle, which will prevent the handle from deforming. It could take a butt-load of pressure to crack it when it can’t flex.

I think a Dremel cut-off wheel is the way to go. If you only have the thin wheels, which are scientifically designed to shatter when you give them a hard look, try using two wheels at once. The extra thickness from that will help some. You’ll still need to be careful to approach the material slowly and not allow any sideways force on the wheels.

[Gary_T]

@Joey_P

Also, now that I think of it, while I do think that getting some Liquid Wrench on there is a good idea, power tools are going to make sparks.

What’s the concern? Those sparks aren’t going to ignite the penetrating fluid.

[Magiver]

Dremel cut it from the side and then across the front until you can split it with a flat-head screwdriver.

[enipla]

@Dag_Otto

Um, not to hijack the thread, but why did you need to remove the shower handle? Do you paint the fiberglass?

No, no. Just doing a little update on the bathroom. Gonna replace the shower door too.

I’m getting ready to gut and redo the other bathroom and the kitchen as well. And wanted to get this bathroom real nice first. It was GOING to be a simple update.

I’m really not an idiot. I desgned and built a 2 story addition on this house. The lower part holds our laundry room and pump equipment. I designed and instaled infloor heat in that room. I used to own and run a sprinkler system company. I do know plumbing.

But this. This, is pissing me off. :smack::mad:

[Magiver]

You’re not the first person to stumble upon some jackass part that won’t come off. luckily you don’t need the part or you would have to pickle-fork it out without destroying the rest of the bathroom.

[enipla]

@Dag_Otto

What’s behind the shower? If it’s an interior wall, you might want to go at it from the backside- Drywall patching is a bit easier than tub replacement, and you are going to have to replumb a new valve in anyway, right?

I’m hoping that I can just replace the canister of the valve from the front.

I really hope I don’t have to rip out the sheet rock and cut out the entire valve from behind. And actually, If I can’t get the eustation over the handle, It’s not going in either direction.

Well, not with out a fight.

Damn.

[Dag_Otto]

Ah, THAT sort of simple painting job. Good luck.

[enipla]

@Gary_T

I don’t think it’s going to crack off as easily as you’d like. Presumably that handle’s hole is filled with the faucet spindle, which will prevent the handle from deforming. It could take a butt-load of pressure to crack it when it can’t flex.

I think a Dremel cut-off wheel is the way to go. If you only have the thin wheels, which are scientifically designed to shatter when you give them a hard look, try using two wheels at once. The extra thickness from that will help some. You’ll still need to be careful to approach the material slowly and not allow any sideways force on the wheels.

I suspect that it is hollow though. The spindle or control to the valve itself is probablly just a 1/4in brass rod. And I don’t thing I need to get it completely off as much as crack it up to the point that I can get the eustation off. Then, hopfully I can get at the canister and unscrew the entire unit. I’m using the word hope a lot in this thread, and that is not a good sign.

[Magiver]

come to think of it, a small nail puller might work against a wood block. You need one that just spans the shaft.

[Joey_P]

@Magiver

come to think of it, a small nail puller might work against a wood block. You need one that just spans the shaft.

I was thinking about suggesting something like that, but I had two concerns. First of all, it would have to be a looong wood block. Preferably a chunk of plywood. There’s going to be a good bit of force at that fulcrum and I don’t think fiberglass is going to deal with it very well. My other concern is damaging the plumbing. It’s probably not likely, but I could see either copper bending or ripping mounting brackets off the studs and winding up with the shower head (and handle) loose and/or not straight.
Of course, I think to do either of these things it would take hard steady force. To get the handle off with this method I think the best way would be to get your wood and pry bar all lined up and give it a good sharp blow with a hammer.
I’d also make sure to put a towel or two in the bottom of the tub in case any of these heavy tools fall and hit the bottom.

[casdave]

You might first put a load of descaler on it, these things often seize up because of mineral deposits which gets into the thread, put it this way it can’t hurt, the idea of heat would have been an excellent one.

[enipla]

@Joey_P

I was thinking about suggesting something like that, but I had two concerns. First of all, it would have to be a looong wood block. Preferably a chunk of plywood. There’s going to be a good bit of force at that fulcrum and I don’t think fiberglass is going to deal with it very well. My other concern is damaging the plumbing. It’s probably not likely, but I could see either copper bending or ripping mounting brackets off the studs and winding up with the shower head (and handle) loose and/or not straight.
Of course, I think to do either of these things it would take hard steady force. To get the handle off with this method I think the best way would be to get your wood and pry bar all lined up and give it a good sharp blow with a hammer.
I’d also make sure to put a towel or two in the bottom of the tub in case any of these heavy tools fall and hit the bottom.

Yeah. I’m worried about applying too much force. Both for the shower, and the valve and as you mentioned, the mounting brackets. If I turn this into a leak, I’ll have to go in through the drywall and cut it out and cap the lines until I have a replacement.

Part of the problem is that I can’t determine what the model number of the faucet is. Hopefully (there’s that word again) once I get the handle off, I will see a model number. Delta online part replacement site has over 25 pages of faucets. I have not found anything that looks even remotely close to what I have.

Ah… think I found it Delta Model 621. Discontinued. Wonder why. Looks like parts are available though. Good thing 'cause it’s gonna need a LOT by the time I’m done with this bitch.

This is about to become a quest.

[Vorpal_Blade]

@enipla

…or eustation (is that the right word?)…

escutcheon?

[gotpasswords]

@enipla

Both good ideas. I don’t think I have ever seen a vise grip that would be big enough though. The jaws would need to be able to open to about 2 3/4 inches. I may be looking for one tomorrow. The nut splitter is also a good idea.

Look for a Vise Grip #12LC. This dude can get a good grip on round things up to about 4" diameter.

If you weren’t a few thousand miles away, you could borrow mine.

As you’ve already learned, corroded and fused Delta handles are a huge pain.

[enipla]

@Vorpal_Blade

escutcheon?

Yep. That’s it. Spelled just like you pronounce it.

[enipla]

@gotpasswords

Look for a Vise Grip #12LC. This dude can get a good grip on round things up to about 4" diameter.

If you weren’t a few thousand miles away, you could borrow mine.

As you’ve already learned, corroded and fused Delta handles are a huge pain.

Thanks. Umm… Looks like the 12LC would be great for tuning it. But not crushing force as it’s got a round grip. From what I see, it’s gonna need flat force from two sides. Not a gripping round. I’m gonna try my big channel locks first, and then move up to the Dremel and channel locks.

Gotta turn the water off and drain the house first. Just in case. If you guys can’t tell, I’m a bit hesitant. And I’ve been working on plumbing all my life.

Well, as they say. Move it or lose it. Might be both in this case.

I’ll keep everyone up to date. And thanks all.

[Cheesesteak]

How about a C Clamp? If you can get it lined up so it won’t slip and turn the handle with your channel locks, you should be able to get a lot of crushing force. Not quite a bench vise, but easier to carry into the shower.

[TriPolar]

Angle grinder, sledge hammer, sawz-all, I’ve been there. I’d rip out the escutcheon and see if work inside the wall is needed. If the handle’s corroded in place, the fitting behind it may be useless, and if it’s soldered in you’ll need to dig into the wall anyway.

:DThe eustations would be the pipes running from shower head to those handles:D