# Loosening a stuck oil drain bolt **URL:** \ **Category:** Factual Questions\ **Created:** [June 3, 2014, 11:35pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/loosening-a-stuck-oil-drain-bolt/689975 "2014-06-03T23:35:42Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 13\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![Saint\_Cad](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/saint_cad/32/18907_2.png) [@Saint\_Cad](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Saint_Cad)\ **Post date:** [June 3, 2014, 11:35pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/loosening-a-stuck-oil-drain-bolt/689975/1 "2014-06-03T23:35:42Z")
My big mistake was to take it in for an oil change the last time. The screwed in the drain plug so tight that it literally split my 13mm socket trying to get it out. They’re being jerks and won’t loosen it up for me. I don’t mind getting a breaker bar but what should I look for in a socket that won’t break and are there any tips for getting it to loosen more easily like liquid wrench? I don’t think it’s rust just overly torqued. ---
**Author:** ![Kazo](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/k/bbce88/32.png) [@Kazo](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Kazo)\ **Post date:** [June 3, 2014, 11:56pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/loosening-a-stuck-oil-drain-bolt/689975/2 "2014-06-03T23:56:55Z")
> [@Saint\_Cad](#): > > My big mistake was to take it in for an oil change the last time. The screwed in the drain plug so tight that it literally split my 13mm socket trying to get it out. They’re being jerks and won’t loosen it up for me. I don’t mind getting a breaker bar but what should I look for in a socket that won’t break and are there any tips for getting it to loosen more easily like liquid wrench? I don’t think it’s rust just overly torqued. If the head of the screw is still good and not rounded, buy a good quality “impact” socket, a breaker bar, and a new drain plug screw. Do not reuse an overtightened screw (in any circumstance, but especially this one). Once the old screw is out, tighten the new one to the proper torque setting. Very important! Modern engines are often equipped with aluminum oil pans, and the pan threads WILL give out before the steel a crew threads. ---
**Author:** ![HoneyBadgerDC](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/honeybadgerdc/32/1033_2.png) [@HoneyBadgerDC](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/HoneyBadgerDC)\ **Post date:** [June 4, 2014, 12:11am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/loosening-a-stuck-oil-drain-bolt/689975/3 "2014-06-04T00:11:50Z")
Another trick is to use a good six point box wrench, hold steady pressure on your wrench while wrapping on the head of the nut with a small ball peen hammer, you don’t have to hit it hard, just firm taps. If you nut is not rounded you might get buy with a 12 point wrench. ---
**Author:** ![doorhinge](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/a5b964/32.png) [@doorhinge](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/doorhinge)\ **Post date:** [June 4, 2014, 12:14am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/loosening-a-stuck-oil-drain-bolt/689975/4 "2014-06-04T00:14:54Z")
What brand of 13mm socket were you using? I have an old hammer driver that comes in handy for loosening Phillips screws and stuck bolts. An internal spring creates torque while you tap the end with a hammer. It looks similar to this - Powerbuilt 648002 1/2-Inch Drive Impact Driver Kit > **[Powerbuilt 1/2 Inch Drive Impact Driver Set Extractor Tool, Slotted or Phillips...](https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-Extractor-Slotted-Phillips-Screwdriver/dp/B004QO9FK2)** > > Powerbuilt 1/2 Inch Drive Impact Driver Set Extractor Tool, Slotted or Phillips Screwdriver Bits, Remove Rusted, Damaged Screws - 648002 - Impact Sockets - Amazon.com Some Craftsman and Stanley hand tools have lifetime warranties. \*Lifetime warranty - Craftsman, Craftsman Professional and Craftsman Industrial Hand Tools, Mechanic’s Tool Sets, Sockets/Ratchets and Drive Tools, Wrenches (Non-Torque), Auto/Specialty (Non-Electrical, Non-Hydraulic) CRAFTSMAN HAND TOOL FULL WARRANTY If this hand tool ever fails to provide complete satisfaction it will be repaired or replaced free of charge. WARRANTY SERVICE To obtain warranty coverage, contact the distributor from which the product was purchased.\* [http://www.craftsman.com/cswarranty/nb-100000000227082](http://www.craftsman.com/cswarranty/nb-100000000227082) _Stanley hand tools LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY Stanley warrants this product to the original purchaser for its useful life (not to exceed one year for products with electrical or electronic components) against deficiencies in material and workmanship. This LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY does not cover products that are improperly used, abused, altered or repaired. Deficient products will be replaced or repaired._ [http://www.stanleytools.com/default.asp?TYPE=STATICLEFT&PAGE=warranty.htm&LEFT=left\_warranty.htm](http://www.stanleytools.com/default.asp?TYPE=STATICLEFT&PAGE=warranty.htm&LEFT=left_warranty.htm) ---
**Author:** ![GusNSpot](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/gusnspot/32/436_2.png) [@GusNSpot](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/GusNSpot)\ **Post date:** [June 4, 2014, 12:19am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/loosening-a-stuck-oil-drain-bolt/689975/5 "2014-06-04T00:19:42Z")
Impact socket seconded. ---
**Author:** ![beowulff](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/beowulff/32/542_2.png) [@beowulff](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/beowulff)\ **Post date:** [June 4, 2014, 12:20am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/loosening-a-stuck-oil-drain-bolt/689975/6 "2014-06-04T00:20:45Z")
When you re-install the bolt, make sure it has a nylon washer. That provides the seal, and means you don’t have to over-tighten and possibly strip the pan. ---
**Author:** ![Isilder](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/i/cc9497/32.png) [@Isilder](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Isilder)\ **Post date:** [June 4, 2014, 12:59am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/loosening-a-stuck-oil-drain-bolt/689975/7 "2014-06-04T00:59:23Z")
No need to pay for impact quality. In fact, the reason not to go for the impact socket is that the impact socket will rust (its not rustproofed steel eg because the chrome surface is weaker.) The shops will have individual , brand name , sockets of the correct size… The OP is saying "A steel socket broke, what is better ? ". A better steel socket… there’s all sorts of steel… there’s all sorts of manufacturing processes and heat treatments. ---
**Author:** ![johnpost](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/f17d59/32.png) [@johnpost](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/johnpost)\ **Post date:** [June 4, 2014, 1:02am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/loosening-a-stuck-oil-drain-bolt/689975/8 "2014-06-04T01:02:32Z")
having six point thick walled socket for things you need to have tight is good. ---
**Author:** ![Kazo](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/k/bbce88/32.png) [@Kazo](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Kazo)\ **Post date:** [June 4, 2014, 2:08am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/loosening-a-stuck-oil-drain-bolt/689975/9 "2014-06-04T02:08:52Z")
> [@beowulff](#): > > When you re-install the bolt, make sure it has a nylon washer. That provides the seal, and means you don’t have to over-tighten and possibly strip the pan. No nylon! Copper, which is what your new drain plug will come with. ---
**Author:** ![beowulff](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/beowulff/32/542_2.png) [@beowulff](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/beowulff)\ **Post date:** [June 4, 2014, 3:13am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/loosening-a-stuck-oil-drain-bolt/689975/10 "2014-06-04T03:13:15Z")
> [@Kazo](#): > > No nylon! Copper, which is what your new drain plug will come with. My Mustang came will nylon. (or perhaps HDPE). ---
**Author:** ![Gary\_T](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/3ec8ea/32.png) [@Gary\_T](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Gary_T)\ **Post date:** [June 4, 2014, 3:15am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/loosening-a-stuck-oil-drain-bolt/689975/11 "2014-06-04T03:15:07Z")
> [@beowulff](#): > > When you re-install the bolt, make sure it has a nylon washer. That provides the seal, and means you don’t have to over-tighten and possibly strip the pan. > [@Kazo](#): > > No nylon! Copper, which is what your new drain plug will come with. Nylon is okay, and so is copper – or aluminum, or fiber, or rubber bonded into the drain plug. There’s not just one right way to seal these. Different vehicle manufacturers choose different materials. They all work. ---
**Author:** ![Gary\_T](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/3ec8ea/32.png) [@Gary\_T](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Gary_T)\ **Post date:** [June 4, 2014, 3:22am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/loosening-a-stuck-oil-drain-bolt/689975/12 "2014-06-04T03:22:59Z")
> [@Saint\_Cad](#): > > I don’t mind getting a breaker bar but what should I look for in a socket that won’t break… Snap-On. > [@](#): > > …are there any tips for getting it to loosen more easily like liquid wrench? Not really. Sheet metal oil pans aren’t solid enough to handle impact well; cast aluminum is sturdier in that regard but still one should be careful. A good quality six-point socket should do the trick. ---
**Author:** ![thelurkinghorror](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/7c8e57/32.png) [@thelurkinghorror](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/thelurkinghorror)\ **Post date:** [June 4, 2014, 3:24am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/loosening-a-stuck-oil-drain-bolt/689975/13 "2014-06-04T03:24:12Z")
When you get it out, make sure that they didn’t strip the threads and now you have a leak. Also, you might want to check out something like [Fumoto valves](http://www.fumotousa.com/). They’re semi-permanently attached, and drain via switch. You can also get a pump which pulls out of the top of the engine, but I don’t see much utility if you’ve already got to replace the oil filter.