# Main breaker blues. **URL:** \ **Category:** Factual Questions\ **Created:** [November 1, 2009, 5:52pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/main-breaker-blues/515958 "2009-11-01T17:52:10Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 16\ **Page:** 3
**Author:** ![johnpost](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/f17d59/32.png) [@johnpost](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/johnpost)\ **Post date:** [November 3, 2009, 3:21am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/main-breaker-blues/515958/41 "2009-11-03T03:21:41Z")
> [@johnpost](#): > > the is a lot of electrical code to know and technique to do correctly for replacing or installing a breaker panel. done improperly fire and death can result even years down the road. not a job for some one who doesn’t know the electrical code as it applies to residences and has lots of electrical experience well beyond recepticles, switches and fixtures. > [@Magiver](#): > > Yes but those codes should be available from the city or county. finding the code isn’t hard. understanding and complying with the electrical code is a real study. ---
**Author:** ![Magiver](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/4491bb/32.png) [@Magiver](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Magiver)\ **Post date:** [November 3, 2009, 3:25am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/main-breaker-blues/515958/42 "2009-11-03T03:25:03Z")
That’s a clean looking setup but the feed lines from your meter look like they’re aluminum. ---
**Author:** ![raindog](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/2bfe46/32.png) [@raindog](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/raindog)\ **Post date:** [November 3, 2009, 3:35am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/main-breaker-blues/515958/43 "2009-11-03T03:35:12Z")
Intolt Did you post this question to Mike Holt’s website? Here’s a [link](http://forums.mikeholt.com/showthread.php?t=117518) to a very good electrical forum where someons just asked this question (you?) At any rate, perhaps a Siemens breaker will work. I still think that **boytyperanma** is right and this is not a DIY job. Still, it appears that you might engage an electrician to simply swap out the breaker. ---
**Author:** ![raindog](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/2bfe46/32.png) [@raindog](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/raindog)\ **Post date:** [November 3, 2009, 3:36am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/main-breaker-blues/515958/44 "2009-11-03T03:36:15Z")
> [@Magiver](#): > > That’s a clean looking setup but the feed lines from your meter look like they’re aluminum. That’s pretty much standard. ---
**Author:** ![raindog](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/2bfe46/32.png) [@raindog](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/raindog)\ **Post date:** [November 3, 2009, 3:43am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/main-breaker-blues/515958/45 "2009-11-03T03:43:14Z")
[Perhaps another relevant thread, particularly posts 3 and 4.](http://forums.mikeholt.com/showthread.php?t=69762) ---
**Author:** ![raindog](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/2bfe46/32.png) [@raindog](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/raindog)\ **Post date:** [November 3, 2009, 3:48am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/main-breaker-blues/515958/46 "2009-11-03T03:48:57Z")
If that wasn’t you on Mike Holt’s forum, you might try over there. I’ve never swapped out a Westinghouse main breaker, but I can tell you that this forum is thought of highly by a lot of electricians. Rather than looking for Westinghouse, check for compatible breakers. I would be surprised if you wouldn’t find someone over there who knows this. ---
**Author:** ![Magiver](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/4491bb/32.png) [@Magiver](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Magiver)\ **Post date:** [November 3, 2009, 3:51am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/main-breaker-blues/515958/47 "2009-11-03T03:51:50Z")
> [@johnpost](#): > > finding the code isn’t hard. understanding and complying with the electrical code is a real study. I’m not going to argue with an electrician but I’ve installed a couple of boxes (new) and it was pretty straight forward and passed inspection. I’m not too keen on my house breaker box because of some of the crappy wire coming into it I don’t want to deal with the older wire. I had no trouble tying my garage breaker box into it and that was run underground. Looking at the pictures the op posted it all looks like modern wires in good shape. It shouldn’t be hard to find a box that matches the dimensions and entance points. I’m not trying to be difficult but what do you see as overly complex in this particular setup? All the connectors are built into the box. ---
**Author:** ![Intolt](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/i/ec9cab/32.png) [@Intolt](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Intolt)\ **Post date:** [November 3, 2009, 5:58pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/main-breaker-blues/515958/48 "2009-11-03T17:58:43Z")
**raindog:** > [@](#): > > Intolt > Did you post this question to Mike Holt’s website? Here’s a link to a very good electrical forum where someons just asked this question (you?) No, that wasn’t me, but thanks for finding that for me. The maintenance supervisor where I work took a look at my photos, and has talked me through it. I guess it is 4 small breakers bridged to act as 1 large one, and I should be able to replace just the one that is kaput ( though I will just replace all four. That is probably why I was having trouble finding that one big breaker–it doesn’t exist. Still, I would think that the electrician that looked at it would have known that. ---
**Author:** ![Patty\_O\_Furniture](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/p/96bed5/32.png) [@Patty\_O\_Furniture](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Patty_O_Furniture)\ **Post date:** [November 3, 2009, 6:14pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/main-breaker-blues/515958/49 "2009-11-03T18:14:44Z")
I had my service panel replaced because of the exact same problem as the OP. Damaged main breaker due to heat stress (high resistance connection heating up). The electrician said that DC code doesn’t require a main breaker inside the panel as long as there is already one at the meter (which there is) so he put the new box in minus a main breaker. The mains are wired straight to the bus bars. It looks like the OP has the same situation. What is the purpose of requiring two main disconnects in series? The job took two days and cost me $1000. The second day was only a couple of hours for the drywall repairs around the box. ---
**Author:** ![Patty\_O\_Furniture](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/p/96bed5/32.png) [@Patty\_O\_Furniture](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Patty_O_Furniture)\ **Post date:** [November 3, 2009, 6:17pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/main-breaker-blues/515958/50 "2009-11-03T18:17:13Z")
> [@](#): > > The maintenance supervisor where I work took a look at my photos, and has talked me through it. I guess it is 4 small breakers bridged to act as 1 large one, and I should be able to replace just the one that is kaput ( though I will just replace all four) I agree. Your load center appears to be in good condition so I don’t see the need for a full rip & replace. ---
**Author:** ![Terry\_Kennedy](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/c57346/32.png) [@Terry\_Kennedy](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Terry_Kennedy)\ **Post date:** [November 3, 2009, 6:20pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/main-breaker-blues/515958/51 "2009-11-03T18:20:45Z")
> [@Intolt](#): > > [I guess it is 4 small breakers bridged to act as 1 large one, and I should be able to replace just the one that is kaput ( though I will just replace all four. Not a good idea. At all. For a number of reasons. > [@](#): > > That is probably why I was having trouble finding that one big breaker–it doesn’t exist. No, your main breaker is a single part. You can tell because there is only a single UL listing label on it. Whether the manufacturer built it out of individual components or not isn’t relevant - and these usually have rivets that go through all of the individual units. You’ll probably also find that the common trip handle tie is permantly affixed, either by crimping or by having a pin through it. ---
**Author:** ![Terry\_Kennedy](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/c57346/32.png) [@Terry\_Kennedy](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Terry_Kennedy)\ **Post date:** [November 3, 2009, 6:31pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/main-breaker-blues/515958/52 "2009-11-03T18:31:08Z")
> [@Patty\_O\_Furniture](#): > > The electrician said that DC code doesn’t require a main breaker inside the panel as long as there is already one at the meter (which there is) so he put the new box in minus a main breaker. The mains are wired straight to the bus bars. It looks like the OP has the same situation. What is the purpose of requiring two main disconnects in series? If the service disconnect switch at the meter is indeed a 200A breaker, then a main breaker in the panel _may_ not be required. But this is specific to the locality and also depends on the distance from the service disconnect to the panel. Where I am, a disconnect inside the house is required if the panel is more than 6 feet from where the feeder enters the house. This is one of the areas where the NEC punts to the AHJ. You may also run into the “accessible” requirement - some jurisdictions may not feel that an outside disconnect counts. _If_ the original poster doesn’t need a main breaker where they are, it might be possible to convert the existing panel to main lugs. The existing feeders probably won’t reach, so new ones may be needed from the outside disconnect to this panel. ---
**Author:** ![boytyperanma](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/4491bb/32.png) [@boytyperanma](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/boytyperanma)\ **Post date:** [November 3, 2009, 6:42pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/main-breaker-blues/515958/53 "2009-11-03T18:42:12Z")
> [@Intolt](#): > > **raindog:** > > No, that wasn’t me, but thanks for finding that for me. > > The maintenance supervisor where I work took a look at my photos, and has talked me through it. I guess it is 4 small breakers bridged to act as 1 large one, and I should be able to replace just the one that is kaput ( though I will just replace all four. > That is probably why I was having trouble finding that one big breaker–it doesn’t exist. Still, I would think that the electrician that looked at it would have known that. This is an incorrect. It is a single breaker. The breaker burnt out connecting to the buss bar on the of the legs. The buss bar may be damaged from arcing that occurred. Which would be why the electrician recommended replacing the whole box. I think you should stop trying to get third party advice on this and have someone with experience look at it and go with their recommendation. ---
**Author:** ![Magiver](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/4491bb/32.png) [@Magiver](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Magiver)\ **Post date:** [November 3, 2009, 7:29pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/main-breaker-blues/515958/54 "2009-11-03T19:29:12Z")
> [@boytyperanma](#): > > This is an incorrect. It is a single breaker. > > The breaker burnt out connecting to the buss bar on the of the legs. The buss bar may be damaged from arcing that occurred. Which would be why the electrician recommended replacing the whole box. > > I think you should stop trying to get third party advice on this and have someone with experience look at it and go with their recommendation. The test for this is to lock the outside switch off and pull the main breakers to see if the buss is damaged. Either the buss bar is damaged or it’s not. and it doesn’t sound like the electrician checked. His box looks brand new except for the mains. This particular case looks very doable by an amateur. None of the wires are burned, just a breaker which means the damage is likely contained to an easily replaceable part. This is looking more and more like a plug and play repair and not $1,800 of box replacement. Yes, there are a million landmines that could bite someone in the ass with electrical service but in this case it should be easy for the op to visually verify where he stands. If the building maintenance supervisor is certified then I would hire him to look it over and order the parts. ---
**Author:** ![Magiver](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/4491bb/32.png) [@Magiver](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Magiver)\ **Post date:** [November 3, 2009, 7:42pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/main-breaker-blues/515958/55 "2009-11-03T19:42:49Z")
I don’t want to sound like “full steam ahead” regardless of the situation but I also don’t want to shoot down an easy repair. ---
**Author:** ![Intolt](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/i/ec9cab/32.png) [@Intolt](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Intolt)\ **Post date:** [November 4, 2009, 4:00am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/main-breaker-blues/515958/56 "2009-11-04T04:00:23Z")
> [@](#): > > I think you should stop trying to get third party advice on this and have someone with experience look at it and go with their recommendation. Aye. intolt [Previous page](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/main-breaker-blues/515958.md?page=2)