# Mechanical wristwatches, not very cheap or expensive: What brands/models should I be looking at? **URL:** \ **Category:** In My Humble Opinion\ **Created:** [October 14, 2018, 7:57pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/mechanical-wristwatches-not-very-cheap-or-expensive-what-brands-models-should-i-be-looking-at/822947 "2018-10-14T19:57:59Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 20\ **Page:** 3
**Author:** ![Philster](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/p/13edae/32.png) [@Philster](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Philster)\ **Post date:** [October 16, 2018, 11:15am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/mechanical-wristwatches-not-very-cheap-or-expensive-what-brands-models-should-i-be-looking-at/822947/42 "2018-10-16T11:15:06Z")
Mechanical watches can be ‘wind only’, or ‘kinetic only’ (self winding with a rotor) or both (wind it and it’ll keep itself wound via rotor). Next, you have some that ‘hack’ the seconds (you go to set time, the seconds stop ticking). Mechanical watches are now affordable, reliable and accurate. Patents ran out on Seiko and Swiss movements. As this happened, Chinaland was also building a manufacturing infrastructure that boggles the mind. They make movements that are clones of the time tested (punny) Swiss and Seiko movements. Seiko then offered its movements direct to other smaller kickstarter types. Now with parts and competition, you can get a solid, classy Chinese watch for 50 bucks, and it will be a good time piece. (China main example, but not only one. But they dominate the inexpensive mechanical market. The above also explains incredible fake/clones of high-end watches. Some clones crack 1,000 USD) . ---
**Author:** ![madmonk28](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/madmonk28/32/20811_2.png) [@madmonk28](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/madmonk28)\ **Post date:** [October 16, 2018, 1:00pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/mechanical-wristwatches-not-very-cheap-or-expensive-what-brands-models-should-i-be-looking-at/822947/43 "2018-10-16T13:00:11Z")
Tissot makes some very nice watches in your price range. I have a couple. Also, I have this really cool watch made by the Russian brand Pilot I bought when I lived in Siberia. I don’t know if they sell internationally, but it’s unusual looking, but stylish and has lasted years. ---
**Author:** ![CookingWithGas](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/cookingwithgas/32/485_2.png) [@CookingWithGas](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/CookingWithGas)\ **Post date:** [October 16, 2018, 1:40pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/mechanical-wristwatches-not-very-cheap-or-expensive-what-brands-models-should-i-be-looking-at/822947/44 "2018-10-16T13:40:06Z")
> [@Philster](#): > > Next, you have some that ‘hack’ the seconds (you go to set time, the seconds stop ticking). Some? I have never seen a watch of any kind where the seconds _don’t_ stop ticking when you pull the stem to set the time. If not, how would you set the seconds? ---
**Author:** ![psychonaut](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/psychonaut/32/4655_2.png) [@psychonaut](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/psychonaut)\ **Post date:** [October 16, 2018, 2:03pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/mechanical-wristwatches-not-very-cheap-or-expensive-what-brands-models-should-i-be-looking-at/822947/45 "2018-10-16T14:03:29Z")
> [@CookingWithGas](#): > > Some? I have never seen a watch of any kind where the seconds _don’t_ stop ticking when you pull the stem to set the time. If not, how would you set the seconds? I’ve never seen a mechanical watch where you _could_ set the seconds. You can wind the dial to set the hour and minute, but the second hand always stays put. ---
**Author:** ![swampspruce](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/swampspruce/32/261_2.png) [@swampspruce](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/swampspruce)\ **Post date:** [October 16, 2018, 2:03pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/mechanical-wristwatches-not-very-cheap-or-expensive-what-brands-models-should-i-be-looking-at/822947/46 "2018-10-16T14:03:51Z")
Not exactly what the OP is looking for but here goes: My Solar Bulova Marine Star Ti is pushing 20 years old and has been my daily watch for all that time. It keeps great time, and has been in for service once 10 years ago when the storage cell failed (as **philster** notes solar watches can fail). I’ve snapped at least 6 pins on the wrist band over that time and in one case the watch was misplaced and left outdoors for a month straight in the late fall (below freezing temps every night). When I went back to the remote site to carry out an inspection I picked it up and it was not only still running but was still accurate. I’ve thought about getting a Tissot or something similar but until this thing gives up the ghost why would I? Just my $.02 if you want to consider a quartz solar vice mechanical. ---
**Author:** ![Bullitt](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/bullitt/32/5725_2.png) [@Bullitt](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Bullitt)\ **Post date:** [October 16, 2018, 2:14pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/mechanical-wristwatches-not-very-cheap-or-expensive-what-brands-models-should-i-be-looking-at/822947/47 "2018-10-16T14:14:25Z")
> [@swampspruce](#): > > Not exactly what the OP is looking for but here goes: > > My Solar Bulova Marine Star Ti is pushing 20 years old and has been my daily watch for all that time. It keeps great time, and has been in for service once 10 years ago when the storage cell failed (as **philster** notes solar watches can fail). I’ve snapped at least 6 pins on the wrist band over that time and in one case the watch was misplaced and left outdoors for a month straight in the late fall (below freezing temps every night). When I went back to the remote site to carry out an inspection I picked it up and it was not only still running but was still accurate. I’ve thought about getting a Tissot or something similar but until this thing gives up the ghost why would I? > > Just my $.02 if you want to consider a quartz solar vice mechanical. Great story. It takes a licking and keeps on ticking. I haven’t had mine very long, maybe not even a year, but I really like it. It’s a backup to my Breitling Aerospace titanium. ---
**Author:** ![Stranger\_On\_A\_Train](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/13edae/32.png) [@Stranger\_On\_A\_Train](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Stranger_On_A_Train)\ **Post date:** [October 16, 2018, 2:56pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/mechanical-wristwatches-not-very-cheap-or-expensive-what-brands-models-should-i-be-looking-at/822947/48 "2018-10-16T14:56:44Z")
> [@Philster](#): > > Solar powered watches store energy in batteries, and they fail. Some use capacitors rather than batteries. Regardless, while any battery or capacitor _can_ fail, a mechancial self-winding watch will fail if it does not receive periodic service (generally every 2-3 years, although some promise up to 5 years between service, and I’ve seen an Sinn running purported 20 years without service). That service partly disassembles the mechanism, cleaning and lubricating the escapement and for a chronograph its mechanisms as well as replacing any seals or worn parts. This service costs several times what a basic but reliable quartz watch costs to purchase, so for what it costs you to maintain a self-winding watch alone you could buy a Timex or Casio and toss it when the battery dies. FWIW, I have a Casio Pro-Trek Tri-Sensor that is solar powered which I wear whenever I’m kayaking or as a backup timer when diving. It automagically sets its own time and time zone, and can take enough charge that I can leave it in a bag for months on end and it is still running when I take it out. I’ve had this thing for over a decade at least and my biggest complaint is that I have to recalibrate the digital compass every time I go to use it, but I have the same problem with my Garmin Fortrex 401 GPS unit, so that just seems to be a problem with digital compasses and why I always have an analog compass if I’m expecting to navigate. Even if I had to replace the battery the watch has performed with greater value than any decent mechanical watch, and has survived more abuse than a self-winder could be expected to. The reasons to own a self-winding watch are an appreciation or horology and the engineering that may have gone into its particular features, or to impress your buddies at the golf course. Stranger ---
**Author:** ![Mumberthax](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/ea5d25/32.png) [@Mumberthax](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Mumberthax)\ **Post date:** [October 16, 2018, 5:20pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/mechanical-wristwatches-not-very-cheap-or-expensive-what-brands-models-should-i-be-looking-at/822947/49 "2018-10-16T17:20:38Z")
> [@Spectre\_of\_Pithecanthropus](#): > > I’ve decided that I really miss being able to simply lift my wrist and read the time, so now\* I want to buy a wristwatch. > I know nothing about watches these days, e.g. what brands or outlets I should be looking for. Likewise, I don’t know what to avoid when shopping for a watch other than that a $50 dollar mechanical skeleton watch probably won’t make me a happy consumer in the long run. > > I know from experience that cheap mechanical watches are rarely much good. For instance, the statement above perfectly describes a watch that I bought years ago at a sporting goods store. After a month or two, the tiny hand from one of the miniature “eye” dials in the face broke away and lodged itself into the escapement, jamming it. Similarly, I don’t need to have a Breitling or Rolex. > Ideally, I’m looking for a self-winding mechanical watch that keeps good time and will hold up for the foreseeable future. While I’m partial to skeleton watches, the watch I buy doesn’t absolutely have to be one. > > What are the good brands these days? What should I expect to pay for something decent? The Seiko 5 divers come to mind, as do most Bulova and Tissot models. Perhaps a preowned Tudor Prince Date-Day is in your future? Or an antique Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1002? I have a 1002 from the 1950s; it runs as a champ even now, 61 years later. So…Seiko, Tissot, Doxa, and Bulova. Start with the mechanicals in those categories. Then go from there. Cost? Oh, about a couple-five hundo USD for the brands I mentioned, up to a couple kilobucks for the Rolex / Tudor set. ---
**Author:** ![Philster](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/p/13edae/32.png) [@Philster](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Philster)\ **Post date:** [October 16, 2018, 6:14pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/mechanical-wristwatches-not-very-cheap-or-expensive-what-brands-models-should-i-be-looking-at/822947/50 "2018-10-16T18:14:58Z")
> [@CookingWithGas](#): > > Some? I have never seen a watch of any kind where the seconds _don’t_ stop ticking when you pull the stem to set the time. If not, how would you set the seconds? Many mechanical movements will not stop the second hand from ticking when you adjust the watch. These movement are called ‘non hacking’. One of my automatics (which also hand winds) does not ‘hack’. For doubters, read it from a popular maker of mechanical watches: [https://www.orientwatchusa.com/blogs/orient-blog/watch-hacking-anyway](https://www.orientwatchusa.com/blogs/orient-blog/watch-hacking-anyway) Exampe: Seiko makes a popular movement called the 7S26 movement. Pull crown to set the time and it keeps ticking. It’s in a popular Seiko line called the Seiko 5. . ---
**Author:** ![Philster](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/p/13edae/32.png) [@Philster](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Philster)\ **Post date:** [October 16, 2018, 6:20pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/mechanical-wristwatches-not-very-cheap-or-expensive-what-brands-models-should-i-be-looking-at/822947/51 "2018-10-16T18:20:05Z")
Hacking trick: On very low power reserve only, some movements will run the seconds backwards if you adjust the time backwards very slowly, but this is more of a trick, and debated as whether it harms anything. . ---
**Author:** ![CookingWithGas](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/cookingwithgas/32/485_2.png) [@CookingWithGas](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/CookingWithGas)\ **Post date:** [October 16, 2018, 6:47pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/mechanical-wristwatches-not-very-cheap-or-expensive-what-brands-models-should-i-be-looking-at/822947/52 "2018-10-16T18:47:19Z")
> [@Philster](#): > > Many mechanical movements will not stop the second hand from ticking when you adjust the watch. These movement are called ‘non hacking’. One of my automatics (which also hand winds) does not ‘hack’. > > For doubters, read it from a popular maker of mechanical watches: > > [https://www.orientwatchusa.com/blogs/orient-blog/watch-hacking-anyway](https://www.orientwatchusa.com/blogs/orient-blog/watch-hacking-anyway) > > Exampe: Seiko makes a popular movement called the 7S26 movement. Pull crown to set the time and it keeps ticking. It’s in a popular Seiko line called the Seiko 5. New one on me. I am interested in watches but do not rise to aficionado level. I have two mechanical automatic watches (the Stuhrling I mentioned above; a Rolex that I wouldn’t have bought but my dad left it to me when he died) that both hack. ---
**Author:** ![Mumberthax](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/ea5d25/32.png) [@Mumberthax](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Mumberthax)\ **Post date:** [October 17, 2018, 3:09pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/mechanical-wristwatches-not-very-cheap-or-expensive-what-brands-models-should-i-be-looking-at/822947/53 "2018-10-17T15:09:31Z")
One important note for the OP: If you go Rolex, you should know how to operate the crown. You can’t just yank on it. Unscrew it first (it’s basically the same as unscrewing the cap on a soda bottle, just MUCH smaller). When you’re done, screw it back down. ---
**Author:** ![CookingWithGas](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/cookingwithgas/32/485_2.png) [@CookingWithGas](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/CookingWithGas)\ **Post date:** [October 17, 2018, 4:00pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/mechanical-wristwatches-not-very-cheap-or-expensive-what-brands-models-should-i-be-looking-at/822947/54 "2018-10-17T16:00:20Z")
> [@Mumberthax](#): > > One important note for the OP: If you go Rolex, you should know how to operate the crown. You can’t just yank on it. Unscrew it first (it’s basically the same as unscrewing the cap on a soda bottle, just MUCH smaller). When you’re done, screw it back down. What’s really important is the cost of maintenance. Before buying a mechanical Rolex call your local qualified Rolex servicer and ask how often it needs routine maintenance and how much it costs. For that price you could probably buy a new Orient watch every few years. ---
**Author:** ![Stranger\_On\_A\_Train](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/13edae/32.png) [@Stranger\_On\_A\_Train](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Stranger_On_A_Train)\ **Post date:** [October 17, 2018, 5:37pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/mechanical-wristwatches-not-very-cheap-or-expensive-what-brands-models-should-i-be-looking-at/822947/55 "2018-10-17T17:37:11Z")
A lot of good quality tool watches have screw-down crowns; that isn’t unique to Rolex by any means. Stranger ---
**Author:** ![justins7](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/e0b2c6/32.png) [@justins7](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/justins7)\ **Post date:** [October 17, 2018, 5:41pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/mechanical-wristwatches-not-very-cheap-or-expensive-what-brands-models-should-i-be-looking-at/822947/56 "2018-10-17T17:41:38Z")
I have about a dozen mechanical watches, all under $250. I love not needing batteries, which is just more waste to throw into a landfill. Most of my watches are slightly off, by maybe a minute or two. But I’ve found that if you come to know each watch, it’s not a big deal, especially since cell phones and digital devices are so ubiquitous you can just reset the watch later in the day. Seiko is probably the most reliable and functional, in my view. My Seiko 5 has been 100% accurate for the four years since I bought it (without service). It was under $200. I bought another “hacked” Seiko on Ebay, made to look like a Sinn watch. It’s beautifully simple and pure, though about a minute slow. I think this is the deal of the century: **“1963” Seagull Chinese pilot watch**. It’s absolutely beautiful and works perfectly. I got it from here: [http://www.watchunique.com/seagull-1963.html](http://www.watchunique.com/seagull-1963.html) It’s new-old, and stunning to look at. My Russian Vostok’s are the least reliable. I can’t wear them since they all suddenly stop for no reason, randomly. I have a WWII-style Kyrova watch that I took a chance on from Russia (I think it was $250). It’s a winding chronograph that has been perfectly accurate for the three years since I bought it. I also have a bunch of cheap Chinese Panerai knick-offs that are great. They’re large and silly, but actually have been totally accurate and trouble-free. Each was under $100. I also make watch bands, but that’s another story… ---
**Author:** ![Cartooniverse](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/cartooniverse/32/3084_2.png) [@Cartooniverse](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Cartooniverse)\ **Post date:** [October 18, 2018, 1:32am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/mechanical-wristwatches-not-very-cheap-or-expensive-what-brands-models-should-i-be-looking-at/822947/57 "2018-10-18T01:32:02Z")
I wear a basic Timex. Uses a battery. Bought it new about 2 years ago. Flawless timekeeping. Less than fiddy dollahs. ---
**Author:** ![rat\_avatar](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/rat_avatar/32/255_2.png) [@rat\_avatar](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/rat_avatar)\ **Post date:** [October 18, 2018, 3:16am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/mechanical-wristwatches-not-very-cheap-or-expensive-what-brands-models-should-i-be-looking-at/822947/58 "2018-10-18T03:16:24Z")
I have a Ball watch that is far more accurate than my phone or computer are (if they don’t have access to a NTP server) It has worked well for years but would be fairly expensive but not prestige brand expensive. ---
**Author:** ![Bullitt](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/bullitt/32/5725_2.png) [@Bullitt](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Bullitt)\ **Post date:** [October 18, 2018, 6:18am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/mechanical-wristwatches-not-very-cheap-or-expensive-what-brands-models-should-i-be-looking-at/822947/59 "2018-10-18T06:18:54Z")
> [@justins7](#): > > I think this is the deal of the century: **“1963” Seagull Chinese pilot watch**. It’s absolutely beautiful and works perfectly. I got it from here: [http://www.watchunique.com/seagull-1963.html](http://www.watchunique.com/seagull-1963.html) It’s new-old, and stunning to look at. Yes, a beautiful watch, and with that nylon olive drab strap it looks quite similar to my Citizen ecodrive (but without the Chinese characters, of course). I put a nylon olive drab strap on mine too. Here is the Citizen ecodrive that I have, $94 on Amazon: [https://www.amazon.com/Citizen-Eco-Drive-Stainless-display-BM8180-03E/dp/B000EQS1JW](https://www.amazon.com/Citizen-Eco-Drive-Stainless-display-BM8180-03E/dp/B000EQS1JW) Very similar to the Hamilton mechanical watch I had in my USMC days back in the 1980s: [https://shop.hamiltonwatch.com/h69429931-khaki-field-mechanical.html](https://shop.hamiltonwatch.com/h69429931-khaki-field-mechanical.html) ---
**Author:** ![butler1850](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/779978/32.png) [@butler1850](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/butler1850)\ **Post date:** [October 18, 2018, 6:08pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/mechanical-wristwatches-not-very-cheap-or-expensive-what-brands-models-should-i-be-looking-at/822947/60 "2018-10-18T18:08:20Z")
I have an [Invicta Pro Diver 8928OB](https://www.amazon.com/Invicta-8928OB-Stainless-Two-Tone-Automatic/dp/B000JQJS6M/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1539885500&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=invicta+pro+diver+8928ob&psc=1), which is a 300M water resistant automatic movement that never needs winding or a battery replacement. I’m very happy with it, and on my 2nd one in about 15 years. The first met an untimely death due to a cracked crystal after I knocked it hard against something or other. Some water leaked in, and it started fogging. My current one runs a couple of minutes fast per month, but it hasn’t been serviced since I bought it years ago (cheaper to replace than pay a couple of hours of service) and it never leaves my wrist. I shower, swim, sleep, work, and play with it on. It’s tough, it looks good (often mistaken for a Rolex from bystander distances), and is accurate enough. It’s not an expensive watch, so wearing it all the time isn’t an issue, and if it got broken, lost or stolen, I’d simply replace it. Great value for the price. ---
**Author:** ![Mumberthax](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/ea5d25/32.png) [@Mumberthax](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Mumberthax)\ **Post date:** [October 18, 2018, 6:26pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/mechanical-wristwatches-not-very-cheap-or-expensive-what-brands-models-should-i-be-looking-at/822947/61 "2018-10-18T18:26:13Z")
> [@justins7](#): > > I have about a dozen mechanical watches, all under $250. > > I love not needing batteries, which is just more waste to throw into a landfill. > > Most of my watches are slightly off, by maybe a minute or two. But I’ve found that if you come to know each watch, it’s not a big deal, especially since cell phones and digital devices are so ubiquitous you can just reset the watch later in the day. > > Seiko is probably the most reliable and functional, in my view. My Seiko 5 has been 100% accurate for the four years since I bought it (without service). It was under $200. I bought another “hacked” Seiko on Ebay, made to look like a Sinn watch. It’s beautifully simple and pure, though about a minute slow. > > I think this is the deal of the century: **“1963” Seagull Chinese pilot watch**. It’s absolutely beautiful and works perfectly. I got it from here: [http://www.watchunique.com/seagull-1963.html](http://www.watchunique.com/seagull-1963.html) It’s new-old, and stunning to look at. > > My Russian Vostok’s are the least reliable. I can’t wear them since they all suddenly stop for no reason, randomly. I have a WWII-style Kyrova watch that I took a chance on from Russia (I think it was $250). It’s a winding chronograph that has been perfectly accurate for the three years since I bought it. > > I also have a bunch of cheap Chinese Panerai knick-offs that are great. They’re large and silly, but actually have been totally accurate and trouble-free. Each was under $100. > > I also make watch bands, but that’s another story… Parnis, right? I had a few of those myself. Not too shabby, but boy oh boy do they break easy. [Previous page](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/mechanical-wristwatches-not-very-cheap-or-expensive-what-brands-models-should-i-be-looking-at/822947.md?page=2) [Next page](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/mechanical-wristwatches-not-very-cheap-or-expensive-what-brands-models-should-i-be-looking-at/822947.md?page=4)