# My Ford Ranger Suddenly won't start **URL:** \ **Category:** Factual Questions\ **Created:** [August 5, 2011, 2:14am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/my-ford-ranger-suddenly-wont-start/591529 "2011-08-05T02:14:59Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 20\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![The\_Flying\_Dutchman](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/9fc348/32.png) [@The\_Flying\_Dutchman](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/The_Flying_Dutchman)\ **Post date:** [August 5, 2011, 2:14am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/my-ford-ranger-suddenly-wont-start/591529/1 "2011-08-05T02:14:59Z")
40,000 miles, 2003 Ford Ranger. Been working like a hot damn since I bought it 3 months ago Suddenly, two hours after parking, the battery is so low it won’t even attempt to make a noise to start the engine. Radio pops in and then shuts down . Cabin fan the same. New alternator ? Battery short ? Any advice ? ---
**Author:** ![DorkVader](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/73ab20/32.png) [@DorkVader](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/DorkVader)\ **Post date:** [August 5, 2011, 3:08am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/my-ford-ranger-suddenly-wont-start/591529/2 "2011-08-05T03:08:09Z")
most likely you need a new battery, especially if thats the battery it came with when you bought it 3 monthes ago. How old is the battery? is there a schucks/o’reillys auto parts store near you where you can take the battery to be tested? ---
**Author:** ![The\_Flying\_Dutchman](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/9fc348/32.png) [@The\_Flying\_Dutchman](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/The_Flying_Dutchman)\ **Post date:** [August 5, 2011, 3:57am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/my-ford-ranger-suddenly-wont-start/591529/3 "2011-08-05T03:57:38Z")
Okay, I’ll take the battery tomorrow and get it tested by my mechanic. Thanx I’m hoping to avoid a tow. ---
**Author:** ![R.P.McMurphy](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/7993a0/32.png) [@R.P.McMurphy](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/R.P.McMurphy)\ **Post date:** [August 5, 2011, 5:14am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/my-ford-ranger-suddenly-wont-start/591529/4 "2011-08-05T05:14:27Z")
Yea, probably a weak battery. I have a 2000 Ford Ranger (great truck) with very low mileage but I think I’m on the third battery. For a battery, time seems to be the bigger (and probably worse) enemy than mileage. ---
**Author:** ![jz78817](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/jz78817/32/1028_2.png) [@jz78817](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/jz78817)\ **Post date:** [August 5, 2011, 11:23am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/my-ford-ranger-suddenly-wont-start/591529/5 "2011-08-05T11:23:08Z")
if it’s the original battery, then 8 years is doing pretty good. ---
**Author:** ![brk913](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/838e76/32.png) [@brk913](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/brk913)\ **Post date:** [August 5, 2011, 1:43pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/my-ford-ranger-suddenly-wont-start/591529/6 "2011-08-05T13:43:01Z")
Could be a dead battery but if it was working fine and suddenly went dead then dirty battery terminal connections or a dirty positive/ground wire at block/frame and starter is my WEG… ---
**Author:** ![thelabdude](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/dc4da7/32.png) [@thelabdude](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/thelabdude)\ **Post date:** [August 5, 2011, 2:22pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/my-ford-ranger-suddenly-wont-start/591529/7 "2011-08-05T14:22:42Z")
Yes, I would check the connections. A competent, honest tester wouldn’t sell you an new battery if it was the connections. My experience with modern batteries is that they fail suddenly and completely with no warning. ---
**Author:** ![The\_Flying\_Dutchman](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/9fc348/32.png) [@The\_Flying\_Dutchman](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/The_Flying_Dutchman)\ **Post date:** [August 5, 2011, 4:46pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/my-ford-ranger-suddenly-wont-start/591529/8 "2011-08-05T16:46:09Z")
Thanx guys. Replaced battery and everythings cool. ---
**Author:** ![sitchensis](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/sitchensis/32/4892_2.png) [@sitchensis](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/sitchensis)\ **Post date:** [August 5, 2011, 6:47pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/my-ford-ranger-suddenly-wont-start/591529/9 "2011-08-05T18:47:08Z")
Unless it’s your alternator in which everything will be cool for a few days at the most. Keep an eye on the cars voltmeter, is it charging? ---
**Author:** ![Magiver](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/4491bb/32.png) [@Magiver](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Magiver)\ **Post date:** [August 5, 2011, 10:23pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/my-ford-ranger-suddenly-wont-start/591529/10 "2011-08-05T22:23:23Z")
> [@The\_Flying\_Dutchman](#): > > Thanx guys. Replaced battery and everythings cool. For you younguns who don’t remember the “good ole days” we use to have bigger batteries with less power. They died a slow agonizing death which gave us ample warning. Modern batteries are smaller and much more powerful. To do this the batteries contain more plates in them which means they’re closer together. This causes them to self destruct rapidly with no warning. Any battery over 5 years old is a silent liability looking for the most inopportune moment to fail. I’ve had batteries fail in mid start after turning the engine over solidly. You can tell when a battery is toast when alternator static can be heard on an AM radio station. It can be so damaged as to not take a jump start. ---
**Author:** ![bump](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/7c8e57/32.png) [@bump](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/bump)\ **Post date:** [August 5, 2011, 11:11pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/my-ford-ranger-suddenly-wont-start/591529/11 "2011-08-05T23:11:11Z")
The funny thing is that cold weather’s actually what damages batteries, but hot weather’s what actually exposes the damage. Usually what happens is that you lose a cell within the battery, so that it puts out 9 volts or something like that. I can’t recall having one that put out the right number of volts and not enough amps without losing a cell, although i suppose that does happen. ---
**Author:** ![DorkVader](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/73ab20/32.png) [@DorkVader](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/DorkVader)\ **Post date:** [August 6, 2011, 10:23pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/my-ford-ranger-suddenly-wont-start/591529/12 "2011-08-06T22:23:46Z")
> [@Magiver](#): > > For you younguns who don’t remember the “good ole days” we use to have bigger batteries with less power. They died a slow agonizing death which gave us ample warning. Modern batteries are smaller and much more powerful. To do this the batteries contain more plates in them which means they’re closer together. This causes them to self destruct rapidly with no warning. Any battery over 5 years old is a silent liability looking for the most inopportune moment to fail. I’ve had batteries fail in mid start after turning the engine over solidly. > > You can tell when a battery is toast when alternator static can be heard on an AM radio station. It can be so damaged as to not take a jump start. yeah, my first guess would have been connections if I hadn’t experienced this with a work truck (2000 Ford Ranger coincidentally) and my 03 chevy s10 last summer. the newest vehicle I’ve had battery issues before that was when I had an 86 ford f250 and the oldest was my 61 bonneville(which I still own, LOVE that car) static on am band, hmmm, had never thought of that before, have to keep that in mind ---
**Author:** ![Rick](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/9f8e36/32.png) [@Rick](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Rick)\ **Post date:** [August 6, 2011, 10:37pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/my-ford-ranger-suddenly-wont-start/591529/13 "2011-08-06T22:37:09Z")
> [@Magiver](#): > > You can tell when a battery is toast when alternator static can be heard on an AM radio station. It can be so damaged as to not take a jump start. Umm cite? I have never observed this in all the cars I have worked on or owned. > [@bump](#): > > The funny thing is that cold weather’s actually what damages batteries, but hot weather’s what actually exposes the damage. You have this backwards. Heat kills batteries. then when it is cold and the battery is stressed by the cold temps, the damage shows up. Batteries located in hot locations live much shorter lives than those in cool locations. ---
**Author:** ![jz78817](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/jz78817/32/1028_2.png) [@jz78817](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/jz78817)\ **Post date:** [August 6, 2011, 11:12pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/my-ford-ranger-suddenly-wont-start/591529/14 "2011-08-06T23:12:19Z")
> [@Rick](#): > > Umm cite? > I have never observed this in all the cars I have worked on or owned. alternators are variable-frequency three-phase AC generators. the battery normally filters out the ripple from the rectified alternator waveform, but a bad battery frequently can’t. > [@](#): > > You have this backwards. Heat kills batteries. then when it is cold and the battery is stressed by the cold temps, the damage shows up. Batteries located in hot locations live much shorter lives than those in cool locations. as the ever-popular phrase says, _it depends._ if cold kills your car battery, it was already discharged (discharged=sulfated plates, therefore the electrolyte was dilute enough to freeze and fracture the plates.) For batteries that aren’t mistreated, heat and mechanical shock are what usually do them in. ---
**Author:** ![thelabdude](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/dc4da7/32.png) [@thelabdude](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/thelabdude)\ **Post date:** [August 6, 2011, 11:27pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/my-ford-ranger-suddenly-wont-start/591529/15 "2011-08-06T23:27:53Z")
> [@Magiver](#): > > It can be so damaged as to not take a jump start. The OEM Delco did that in my 1991 Grand Am. ---
**Author:** ![The\_Flying\_Dutchman](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/9fc348/32.png) [@The\_Flying\_Dutchman](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/The_Flying_Dutchman)\ **Post date:** [August 7, 2011, 12:05am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/my-ford-ranger-suddenly-wont-start/591529/16 "2011-08-07T00:05:29Z")
> [@sitchensis](#): > > Unless it’s your alternator in which everything will be cool for a few days at the most. Keep an eye on the cars voltmeter, is it charging? Yes , I’m a happy camper. Interesting thing though about the new batteries not giving any warning. That threw me. ---
**Author:** ![DorkVader](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/73ab20/32.png) [@DorkVader](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/DorkVader)\ **Post date:** [August 7, 2011, 12:30am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/my-ford-ranger-suddenly-wont-start/591529/17 "2011-08-07T00:30:25Z")
> [@The\_Flying\_Dutchman](#): > > Yes , I’m a happy camper. Interesting thing though about the new batteries not giving any warning. That threw me. it is a pita, I went to the PO just fine, came back out “click brrrrrt” and then not even a click, although…the check engine light was on before that, if the oxsensor wasn’t getting proper power and caused a fault signal…hmmmmm ---
**Author:** ![Rick](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/9f8e36/32.png) [@Rick](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Rick)\ **Post date:** [August 7, 2011, 1:05am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/my-ford-ranger-suddenly-wont-start/591529/18 "2011-08-07T01:05:35Z")
> [@jz78817](#): > > alternators are variable-frequency three-phase AC generators. the battery normally filters out the ripple from the rectified alternator waveform, but a bad battery frequently can’t. The diodes in the alternator filter out the AC ripple, if AC ripple is present in the car, the alternator is bad, not the battery. If you still insist that the battery filters AC out of the system, cite please. > [@](#): > > as the ever-popular phrase says, _it depends._ if cold kills your car battery, it was already discharged (discharged=sulfated plates, therefore the electrolyte was dilute enough to freeze and fracture the plates.) For batteries that aren’t mistreated, heat and mechanical shock are what usually do them in. Heat is what damages batteries, and reduces their ability to provide cranking current. Excessive heat can cause the plate to flex and warp a bit. This causes the active material to flake off the grid. If material flakes off the grid, it will not produce electricity. If the flexing is severe enough it can short a cell, and kill the battery instantly. The problem is that when it is warm, the engine oil is thinner, the engine turns more easily, AND the amount of power available is directly related to temperature, the warmer it is, the more power a battery can produce. So the damage is done when it is warm, but the battery can test bad and crank fine all summer long when the lowest temp in the night is 60F. Wait a few months when the temp drops to freezing and the engine requires more power, and the battery (any battery, not just a bad one) is less capable of producing the needed current. Example: Mid 1980s Jaguars. The XJ6 had the battery mounted back against the firewall on the exhaust side of the engine. The best Delco battery they made back then would last 18 months. You could set your watch by it. Car 18 months old? Battery would be bad. XJS had the battery in the trunk. Battery lasted 5+ years. Both batteries got just as cold at night, but the XJ6 cooked while being driven. If still doubt this, try these links [Linky](http://jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/carfaq11.htm) > [@](#): > > Here are some tips to increase car or deep cycle battery service life: > > 11.1. Protecting your car battery from high underhood temperatures with a heat shield or case, keeping it full charged at all times, and maintaining it are the easiest ways to extend its life. In hot climates and during summer, the electrolyte levels need to be checked more frequently. In a study conducted by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE), the underhood temperature has increased more than 30% since 1985. For every increase of 18° F (10° C) above 77° F (25° C), positive grid corrosion or self-discharge rate is doubled. > > Chrysler studies have shown that relocating the battery outside the engine compartment has increased the average OEM battery life by eight months. Relocating the starting battery to the trunk or passenger compartment, as Mazda did in their Miata a number of years ago, is becoming more popular by the car manufacturers to protect the starting battery from the high underhood temperatures. [Linky 2](http://jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/carfaq12.htm) > [@](#): > > Relocating starting batteries to the passenger compartment (or trunk) also has considerably decreased premature battery failures… > For wet car batteries, lack of preventive maintenance, high underhood heat, fast recharging (greater than C/4), or overcharging causes a loss of water, which accounts for over 50% of the failures. -Rick who has taught this stuff for more years than I care to think about. ---
**Author:** ![bump](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/7c8e57/32.png) [@bump](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/bump)\ **Post date:** [August 7, 2011, 2:06am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/my-ford-ranger-suddenly-wont-start/591529/19 "2011-08-07T02:06:01Z")
> [@Rick](#): > > Umm cite? > I have never observed this in all the cars I have worked on or owned. > You have this backwards. Heat kills batteries. then when it is cold and the battery is stressed by the cold temps, the damage shows up. Batteries located in hot locations live much shorter lives than those in cool locations. Yeah, on re-reading it, you’re right. Guess that’s what I get when trying to post and help my wife take care of our one-week old infant! On that note… I’m dreading when my current battery will crap out. It’ll probably be the coldest day of the year; my current battery’s about 5 years old, and we’re in the middle of the second-longest 100+ temp streak in Dallas history at 36 days, with at least another week or two to go in the streak according to the forecasters. ---
**Author:** ![R.P.McMurphy](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/7993a0/32.png) [@R.P.McMurphy](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/R.P.McMurphy)\ **Post date:** [August 7, 2011, 2:13am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/my-ford-ranger-suddenly-wont-start/591529/20 "2011-08-07T02:13:29Z")
> [@The\_Flying\_Dutchman](#): > > Thanx guys. Replaced battery and everythings cool. Get a good battery charger and every once in a while (every 6 months) give the battery an overnight trickle charge. It will extend it’s life. Not an ultimate fix but a good practice. [Next page](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/my-ford-ranger-suddenly-wont-start/591529.md?page=2)