That all sounds good.
Fan/blowers, yeah, usually the same thing. Few questions though. Does this furnace have two pieces of PVC coming out of it or one metal exhaust pipe that goes to a chimney or combines with a water heater exhaust.
Actually, that might answer my other question.
One metal exhaust pipe that goes into the wall. The water heater pipe goes into the same wall but six inches below the furnace pipe.
Nevermind, got my answer, it should have a single metal pipe coming out the top. Now, just to be clear, when you talk about the time between the system powering up and the burners coming on, assuming you are referring to another blower near the top of the unit that you can hear, right. That’s the inducer motor. It comes online just before the gas starts (to induce a draft), runs the entire time the gas is on and the for a little while after the gas shuts off.
To put it in terms of roar… Inducer motor starts, burners start, ROAR, burners shut off, ROAR continues for a few minutes, ROAR stops and there is blessed silence.
Am I losing you with the technical language? 
Sorry to be such a inaccurate neophyte. But thank you for being so patient.
No but, (not that it was a concern since it was more or less ruled out earlier) inducer motor is ruled out as causing ROAR, as are burners. Leaves motor itself (along with squirrel cage) and ductwork.
And to go back to something I said earlier. There’s a good chance that getting rid of the roar will get rid of the cycling. It’s possible they are both caused by (or causing) low airflow.
Gotcha. My landlord is out of town for the next few weeks, so it will be a bit before I can have him bring someone over. I don’t think he’s a furnace kinda guy. But at least I have a handful of symptoms and possible solutions for him to have a professional check.
This is ridiculous.
Why should you have to wait weeks to get a heating problem fixed just because he’s out of town? All the furnace repair people aren’t out of town, are they? He can just call the HVAC company he uses and have them send someone over.
And why would the landlord have to be there anyway? He can’t describe the symptoms, because he doesn’t live there – you would do that. If he’s not “a furnace kinda guy”, he won’t be of much use in fixing this, he should leave it to a HVAC expert.
Contact your landlord, and tell him he needs to call in a HVAC professional NOW, not make you wait until he returns in ‘a few weeks’.
Yipes! Ok, I will, I promise! :eek:
If it makes you feel any better I just got back from fixing my parents furnace. It sounded like a washing machine that was ready to explode. Turns out some of the fins on the inducer motor squirrel cage came off, unbalanced the motor and it was wobbling something awful. Luckily she turned if off and it has a good set of shock absorbers so it didn’t rattle the whole furnace apart.
$50 for the part, $5 for some caulk (since they didn’t sell the gasket on it’s own) and about 20 minuets of labor…and 13 friggen screws to get it out. Turns out a dab of caulk on the top of the screw makes it a lot easier to get a screw into a screw hole that’s too far back to reach with your fingers.
What’s odd is that they have two furnaces, both scheduled to be replaced some time in the next few months. I’m surprised they didn’t just take this opportunity to do it. Whatever, I like fixing things and it’s their money.
Yeah, I need to try to set a different expectation with my landlord. I’m trying not to be/sound annoyed with him (although I really am). But, yeah, I’m over-correcting into doormat territory because I don’t trust myself to not be bitchy. Once again an opportunity to practice walking the middle path.
Who pays the gas/electric bills?
I do.
That’s what I figured. Otherwise, I was going to suggest you start cranking it way up to 85 or so and deal with the noise. Then turn it back down to something reasonable so you have some quiet for an hour or two. This would likely get his attention.
I think something you can do is to work on sealing up any drafts you can find. Get that plastic shrink wrap for the windows. Draft stoppers for the doors, keep the basement door shut (if there is one). If you have any unused rooms close the doors and shut the vents. Maybe even think about getting a space heater in the main part of the house. Even if you get the noise to stop, you’re still likely losing heat to the outside…barring Raindog’s theory of a leak in the return air ducting sucking in cold air from the attic or basement.
Yep, I’ll be taking care of sealing up drafts this week and getting a space heater. And I’ll call my landlord.
Those two things alone will probably make a world of difference. Make sure the space heater is the same space as the t-stat. Also, as you start sealing up the house, start in that area and work outwards for faster results.
If it’s at all windy out, a book of matches (or a candle) will make it easier to find drafts around doors and windows. Also, if your house is old (and I assume it is). The electrical wiring is most likely all in conduit (as opposed to romex). If you put your hand near the outlets and switches you’ll probably be able to feel a draft from there as well, make sure to get those sealed up.
Yep, built in 1928. Seal the outlets and switches, too, huh? Maybe it would be cheaper to wrap *myself *in plastic sheet wrap. 
Well, yeah, that would probably do the trick, but then you might want to run a small AC inside the plastic sheeting to deal the humility and we’d have a whole new set of problems.
As for sealing them up. A lot of this you can tell just by putting your hand near the offending areas (especially when its windy and/or really cold). Run your hand along the perimeter of exterior doors and windows, outlets, by the base of cabinets, under the window sills etc, you’ll be able to tell where the cold air is coming in from. Start with those places then work towards the ones that you don’t readily notice but based on things you hear about in the news or read about on the internet (do google searches for things like “weatherproofing your home” or “energy saving tips” and most energy company’s websites have tips as well) you assume probably do leak.
Good advice. You’re very helpful. You should start a blog. No, seriously!
Ok, my ambien is kicking in. Time to go.
Do NOT – repeat NOT – try to look that up on the Internet. You will get lots of sites that are not safe for work, and indeed, not safe to look at without nightmares!
But these things to fix drafts, etc. are pretty easy to do, and will make you a lot more comfortable, too. And they are mostly cheap. In fact, ones that involve permanent fixes to the house your landlord should pay for (or at least deduct from your rent). Don’t expect payment for your labor, but the materials he should cover. So fixes like foam sealer or caulk around outlets & windows, weatherstrips (the kind that are attached permanently to the bottom of doors, not sand-filled bags in front of the door) and so forth are improvements to his property, and he should be willing to pay for them – especially as you do the work of installing them. My family always did with our rental houses, and were happy to have tenants who did this.
Huh, that’s an interesting idea. I hadn’t thought of that.