I will give you a reply with disclaimer. I take no responsibility and anybody that refutes what I say is will not insult me in the least. So here goes:
The new Li-On tools in the 18-20 volt range are pretty impressive. They are far better than what we have come to expect from electrical rechargeable tools. While I have seen such chain saws advertised, I take all such advertisements with a degree of skepticism. Never used one so I am not offering an evaluation.
3" or less, you are probably OK. It’s logs that are a different story. The problem with chain saws is that you are usually working in conditions that are somewhat unpredictable. It’s not like that table saw (which is plenty dangerous) that is sitting on stable ground and doesn’t move. Chain saws get used in bad weather, on ground that is not level and on wood and branches that can be unpredictable. (Anecdote: I once cut a tree and managed to hit the one nail that was on the other side of the trunk. The odds were unfathomable. It’s what I said earlier about Murphy’s Law.)
Personally, I wouldn’t buy Black & Decker. Back in the day they used to produce top quality power tools but with changes in ownership, they just became a cheap Wal-Mart brand. Maybe they have improved but my skepticism persists.
Talk to people and do research. If you are just trimming a formidable hedge you may be fine with a Li-On saw. Just realize it’s limitations and don’t push it. It’s when you try to do something for which you and your tools are ill-equipped that accidents happen.
Note that even an electric chainsaw will effortlessly cut human flesh.
That’s a tall order for a cordless electric saw.
Chainsaws don’t do a great job on hedge-density growth - the chain is designed to take repeated 5mm gouges out of more or less solid wood. You probably need a hedge trimmer. Though not really the right tool for hedges, you might get by with a brush-cutter.
If you want to take out a hedge at ground level, an electric chainsaw would probably do a decent job.
You should get an electric chainsaw. It is useful to keep around for cutting large lumber, trimming a section of stockade fencing, pruning bushes and trees. But for cutting down and cutting up trees you need a Husky or a Stihl. Anything else is a waste of money.
Hey look at that, cutting down trees and cutting up trees aren’t opposites.
For 3’ logs I wouldn’t use anything smaller than the Stihl 280 or the comparable Husqvarna model. The 360 would probably be a proper saw for the job. Use a safety chain and all the other safety equipment and take a class.
Chainsaws are great for clearing brush but it is a lot more dangerous and the final product is not very pretty to look at. You don’t really want to be doing it at heights above your waste for any length of time, tired arms make for bad injuries.
I’ve never used a chain saw, but was considering getting one to have around in case a tree fell in a storm that endanged my house. The discussion in this thread of safety issues with chain saws give me pause. Would a reciprocating saw be better for my use? As in once every few years at most?
Once the tree falls, the danger is mostly over - it either hit and damaged your house, or it missed. At that point a saw doesn’t much change the danger - though it could allow you to clear a blocked driveway.
Some of the problems involved in cutting up a tree are a function of the tree itself, and not the saw. And a recip saw is likely to be much less effective than a chainsaw. Best advice is either to get a chainsaw and some instruction & practice, or line up someone who can be called on to do the sawing for you.
Don’t underestimate the danger inherent is cutting up a fallen tree irrespective of the saw’s dangers. Unless you have some idea what you are doing you have a good chance of injuring yourself with the tree itself.
You would really want to work out the odds of having to deal with a fallen tree in your lifetime versus the cost of tying money up in a saw that has no other purpose and the risk of personal injury through inexperience versus having it cleaned up professionally.
I can’t really complain, I own a good chain saw, use it a lot, and have had to deal with two large fallen trees on my property plus twice had to clear large fallen branches off my driveway. However when it came to deal with the tree over the drive properly, I was more than happy to have professionals do the work. (It needed a cherry picker and three guys for half a day.)
My main reason for owning a chain saw is for firewood. It has paid for itself many times over. We pay over $300 a tonne for red gum. My saw is an Alpina P 450, which is a farm level machine, 45cc, and 18" bar. It has been exemplary, and never given any trouble.
If have a husky 51 with a twenty inch bar. I cut two to three cords of wood a year and never had a serious problem with the saw in the ten years since I bought it.
They make chaps that are filled with nylon threads that you wear in case the saw does get near your leg. :eek:
My wife has a Black and Decker Alligator which is like a cross between hedge clippers and a chainsaw. She loves it. It will go through a 3" branch pretty easily but that’s about as big around as you’d want to cut. It’s** much** safer than a chainsaw although you could probably still hurt yourself with it if you really put your back into it. Ours is corded. They make a rechargeable one but I have no idea how well it would work.
No love for Echo in this thread? I’ve been very happy with my 20" Echo.
My usual rule is to do a quick sharpening pass over the chain every tank, and to flip the bar every three tanks. Sitting down to do this is a good way of forcing yourself to take some time out, and keeps the saw working well. Battling a blunt chain is a good way to have an accident too. But the moment you catch yourself not paying 100% attention to the job, stop right there.
