# New car question regarding rust proofing

**URL:** <https://boards.straightdope.com/t/new-car-question-regarding-rust-proofing/532158>\
**Category:** In My Humble Opinion\
**Created:** [March 11, 2010, 9:30pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/new-car-question-regarding-rust-proofing/532158 "2010-03-11T21:30:39Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 14\
**Page:** 1

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**Author:** ![J-P\_L](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/j-p_l/32/3156_2.png) [@J-P\_L](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/J-P_L)\
**Post date:** [March 11, 2010, 9:30pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/new-car-question-regarding-rust-proofing/532158/1 "2010-03-11T21:30:39Z")

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I’m looking at buying a new vehicle, probably a Toyota Venza, I expect the salesman to try to sell me some kind of rust-proofing package.

What’s the general opinion regarding rust-proofing, get the manufacturer/dealer’s package or go to an external supplier. Here in Canada, we have [Krown](http://www.krown.com/#default).

One car, a 1991 Camry had the Krown treatment but still had to have some body repairs done after 8-9 years, but I still kept the car for 12 years and two seperate relatives owned it for an additional 4-5 years before I loss track of it. The relatives did not continue the yearly treatment but the car did not show an inordinate amount of rust.

My current car, a 2003 Camry had the dealer’s treament, and at only 6 years old and 109,000 kilometers, is not showing any rust at this time. I’m giving it to my daughter, she badly needs a better vehicle which is the main reason I’m buying a new one now.

Any advice on which treatment to go for, Thanks!

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**Author:** ![BrotherCadfael](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/977dab/32.png) [@BrotherCadfael](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/BrotherCadfael)\
**Post date:** [March 11, 2010, 11:13pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/new-car-question-regarding-rust-proofing/532158/2 "2010-03-11T23:13:58Z")

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In Vermont, we know about winter and road salt.

We used to have cars undercoated back in the '70s, but not since. Basically, car materials and construction have improved to the point where undercoating isn’t needed.

The undercoating dealerships have all dried up and blown away.

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**Author:** ![elfkin477](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/e/a9a28c/32.png) [@elfkin477](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/elfkin477)\
**Post date:** [March 11, 2010, 11:30pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/new-car-question-regarding-rust-proofing/532158/3 "2010-03-11T23:30:13Z")

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> [@BrotherCadfael](#):
>
> We used to have cars undercoated back in the '70s, but not since. Basically, car materials and construction have improved to the point where undercoating isn’t needed.

No they haven’t. I retired my Kia a couple of weeks ago due to there being $600 of undercarriage damage that had developed since the brakes were done in August (the not quite 2 year old muffler needed replacing too, putting the total estimate at a grand). Salt still eats cars in New England and other places that have lots of snow.

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**Author:** ![Bijou\_Drains](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/bijou_drains/32/2814_2.png) [@Bijou\_Drains](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Bijou_Drains)\
**Post date:** [March 11, 2010, 11:34pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/new-car-question-regarding-rust-proofing/532158/4 "2010-03-11T23:34:18Z")

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Undercoating used to be big scam for the dealer to make a lot more profit. When most people found out it was bogus they changed to other stuff - the latest is “doc fees”

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**Author:** ![Khendrask](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/k/3e96dc/32.png) [@Khendrask](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Khendrask)\
**Post date:** [March 12, 2010, 3:30pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/new-car-question-regarding-rust-proofing/532158/5 "2010-03-12T15:30:23Z")

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Note number 1 - NEVER buy any add-on’s from the dealer. If you seriously think you need additional rustproofing (or, more accurately, rust inhibiting) treatments, see Note number 2, and then look up a third party that will guarantee the work.

Note number 2 - With many vehicle manufacturers, after-market undercoating / rustproofing / other treatments of the sort will invalidate the existing manufacturers warranty on the body.

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**Author:** ![crazyjoe](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/c/f14d63/32.png) [@crazyjoe](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/crazyjoe)\
**Post date:** [March 12, 2010, 3:57pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/new-car-question-regarding-rust-proofing/532158/6 "2010-03-12T15:57:38Z")

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> [@Bijou\_Drains](#):
>
> Undercoating used to be big scam for the dealer to make a lot more profit. When most people found out it was bogus they changed to other stuff - the latest is “doc fees”

Actually, I think the latest is Paint Sealant (or protectant) and scotchguard/upholstery protector. they apply 10 bucks worth of chemicals on your car by someone paid $8 per hour, and then charge you 200 - 600 bocks for it.

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**Author:** ![J-P\_L](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/j-p_l/32/3156_2.png) [@J-P\_L](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/J-P_L)\
**Post date:** [March 12, 2010, 4:39pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/new-car-question-regarding-rust-proofing/532158/7 "2010-03-12T16:39:32Z")

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> [@Khendrask](#):
>
> Note number 1 - NEVER buy any add-on’s from the dealer. If you seriously think you need additional rustproofing (or, more accurately, rust inhibiting) treatments, see Note number 2, and then look up a third party that will guarantee the work.
> 
> Note number 2 - With many vehicle manufacturers, after-market undercoating / rustproofing / other treatments of the sort will invalidate the existing manufacturers warranty on the body.

Your note number 2 is one of the reasons I’m debating the dealer’s treatment VS the after-market one.

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**Author:** ![Dewey\_Finn](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/dewey_finn/32/4222_2.png) [@Dewey\_Finn](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Dewey_Finn)\
**Post date:** [March 12, 2010, 5:04pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/new-car-question-regarding-rust-proofing/532158/8 "2010-03-12T17:04:48Z")

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I thought I remember reading in _Consumer Reports_ or elsewhere that some aftermarket and dealer-installed rustproofing involves drilling holes in the undercarriage so that they can spray in the rustproofing/undercoating. If so, that might be one reason why the manufacturer would invalidate the warranty. I just tried to confirm this on the _Consumer Reports_ website, but wasn’t able to do so. Their advice did agree with **BrotherCadfael** , though; that car materials and construction have improved enough that they advise against getting aftermarket or dealer-installed rustproofing or undercoating.

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**Author:** ![ralph124c](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/8797f3/32.png) [@ralph124c](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/ralph124c)\
**Post date:** [March 12, 2010, 10:36pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/new-car-question-regarding-rust-proofing/532158/9 "2010-03-12T22:36:05Z")

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I remember scams like “Ziebart” rustproofing-they would drill holes in your car, and spray in some goop (a mixture of wax and tars) that was supposed to rustproof your car. I had a boss who had this done-the rust actually started at the holes that they drilled.  
As far as I know, this treatment was worthless-they gave you your money back (if the car rusted).

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**Author:** ![Balthisar](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/balthisar/32/2825_2.png) [@Balthisar](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Balthisar)\
**Post date:** [March 12, 2010, 10:42pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/new-car-question-regarding-rust-proofing/532158/10 "2010-03-12T22:42:00Z")

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Back in the old days, cars rusted. A lot. Today, though, any top-line manufacturer (Toyota, Ford, Honda) takes corrosion issues seriously, and usually does an excellent job of identifying and preventing them even prior to the vehicle launch. We tend to use a lot more galvanized and annealed materials than we did in the past. E-coat is better. Drainage is better. Paint is better. Everything is better.

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**Author:** ![FoieGrasIsEvil](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/foiegrasisevil/32/16638_2.png) [@FoieGrasIsEvil](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/FoieGrasIsEvil)\
**Post date:** [March 12, 2010, 11:24pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/new-car-question-regarding-rust-proofing/532158/11 "2010-03-12T23:24:10Z")

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> [@elfkin477](#):
>
> No they haven’t. I retired my Kia a couple of weeks ago due to there being $600 of undercarriage damage that had developed since the brakes were done in August (the not quite 2 year old muffler needed replacing too, putting the total estimate at a grand). Salt still eats cars in New England and other places that have lots of snow.

Yes they have. And you don’t state how old your Kia is, but…its also a Kia.

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**Author:** ![elfkin477](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/e/a9a28c/32.png) [@elfkin477](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/elfkin477)\
**Post date:** [March 13, 2010, 3:04am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/new-car-question-regarding-rust-proofing/532158/12 "2010-03-13T03:04:49Z")

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> [@FoieGrasIsEvil](#):
>
> Yes they have. And you don’t state how old your Kia is, but…its also a Kia.

It was a 2000 and started needing bodywork due to rust by age five, but yes, it I’m never buying another again because Kias suck. However, with every car I’ve ever owned, two years is the max. lifespan of any muffler I’ve ever bought before salt ate them.

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**Author:** ![FoieGrasIsEvil](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/foiegrasisevil/32/16638_2.png) [@FoieGrasIsEvil](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/FoieGrasIsEvil)\
**Post date:** [March 13, 2010, 4:45am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/new-car-question-regarding-rust-proofing/532158/13 "2010-03-13T04:45:29Z")

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> [@elfkin477](#):
>
> It was a 2000 and started needing bodywork due to rust by age five, but yes, it I’m never buying another again because Kias suck. However, with every car I’ve ever owned, **two years is the max. lifespan of any muffler I’ve ever bought before salt ate them**.

That’s amazing, even in salt central, given the construction of modern mufflers. I’d think you’d have more problems living near an ocean.

Can you cite the age of said vehicles/mufflers before they were “eaten”? As far as I am aware, mufflers on brand new cars will last well beyond 2 years, no matter the conditions.

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**Author:** ![Balthisar](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/balthisar/32/2825_2.png) [@Balthisar](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Balthisar)\
**Post date:** [March 13, 2010, 3:39pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/new-car-question-regarding-rust-proofing/532158/14 "2010-03-13T15:39:30Z")

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My 9 year old Lincoln Continental hasn’t had a hint of exhaust work (or any body work for that matter) ever performed on it. Don’t let my current location fool you: it’s a salty-road Michigan car.

Why are Kias so cheap? Inferior materials on things like your exhaust system contributes towards the bottom line. It’s probably a good idea not to buy a Kia again, or a Hyundai for that matter. Exhaust systems go beyond undercoating. They get quite hot. They have to be made from better materials (stainless is a good choice).
