Assuming your cylinder heads are aluminum, your fears are more realistic as compared to if they were iron iron. That said, getting someone to step up to the plate will be difficult because it doesn’t appear as though you will be in a position to prove the cross threading was done at the factory. If the plugs you removed are unique (brand, heat range, etc.) to a factory installation, I suggest saving them. Might help with your case.
Further, if you think you have a case, you do not have to wait until the problem manifests itself again. After all, the damage is verifiable now. Might be easier to pursue now vs. later.
I saved the plug in question. It is clear as day stripped as well with a nice, fat serial number on it - which I can only assume is linked to either the engine, model, etc.
I’ll let you guys know by next week - I’ve got a service appointment at CarMax.
Ask around and buy the very best/long lasting plugs you can. When you do go to replace them 90 whatevers from now, if the others you replace still look good, leave the problematic one longer still. You can do the old remove/replace wires one cylinder at a time trick at the point to see if that cylinder is still firing right with the old plug.
Also get some spark plug antisieze compound to put on that plug. Actually put in on all the plugs. Make sure to get some on the threads in the hole as well as the spark plug threads. Be very carefull to make sure you get it started in the hole properly as well. Use a torque wrench and tighten it right. The antisieze compound will make it less likely to be a problem when you go to remove it later. That stuff is also just a good idea anytime. Note, the antisieze stuff is not just some oil or grease, its a special compound. Maybe someone here can recommend a specific brand ?
Check with a few shops and you should find someone familiar with “thread savers”. These are NOT a band-aid and when done properly will be a permanent, high quality, repair. They will install a steel insert that locks in place. The spark plug then screws into the insert. This can be done without removing the cylinder head as long as the mechanic is careful (applies grease to the tool to catch metal filings).