Ask at your point of supply. Every homebrew store I’ve ever encountered was rife with recipes. I can’t link to sites from here at work, but if you have a few styles you would like to make, list them and I’ll dig out my recipe book when I get home.
A bit more advice from me – Avoid using darker extracts. Use the lightest one (golden?) and add some grain. If you want a darker brew, use a dark grain and steep it for a good 20-30 minutes. (In a muslin bag, at 153 degrees, of course.) Even for a light brew, a 5 minute steep of light grains is useful. There are two reasons for this. One, the proteins in the grains add a lot more foam and bubbles, and two, darker extracts tend to have a chalky mouthfeel.
Homebrewing for Dummies. It has recipes for every recognized style.
Here’s a few things I’ve adopted that have vastly improved my extract-based brews:
- All recipes should be partial mash (no all-extract recipes, everything should have some steeped grain)
- Dry hopping in the secondary or keg is the best way to get good hop aroma and taste.
- Maltodextrin does wonders for improving the body if it comes out too watery.
- A yeast starter culture yields a much quicker and complete fermentation.
- If it doesn’t taste good now, wait 2 more weeks. Almost everything improves over time.
I realize this is a controversial position, but I agree. Leave the bucket closed, and you greatly reduce the chance of contamination. Just leave the yeast alone to do its thing. And use an airlock.
I’ve done over 100 batchs and never had a bad one.
And too much hops are almost enough. 
I’m just going to add my experience based on recent crazy brews I have done. It is physically impossible to contaminate a beer. Look I know everybody says sanitize, sanitize, sanitize but I have literally done everything you could imagine that would ensure contamination and gotten non-contaminated beer. (Yes, that means my mystery brew I had concocted and told everybody about is just fine. To be honest it smells like whiskey I’d guess due to the fake maple syrup I added.)
I’m not saying don’t boil and sanitize everything, but very logical care of what touches what make contamination very very unlikely. You just would not beleive the conditions I brew in.
I’m gonna bookmark that comment, for the time when you get a persistant slime mold. 
There are a BUNCH of recipes out there. Staggering. For the hobbyist they are mostly 5 gallon batches, minus a lossage, and of course a lot of the equipment is setup for that. It’s still kit-beer, kinda - but it’s all down to an art/science.
There’s no reason you can’t make your own custom recipe for your first brews. Maybe you want to add honey in lieu of sugar, or some Oregon cherries in the wort. Can’t hurt anything! The “How To Brew” websites are out-standing, but it’s nice to have a “cookbook” -on hand for refresher and, actual brew day. For these I think the Charlie Papazian and John Palmer books the best in broad terms, with the Hefe book by Eric Warner for specificity since I like wheat beer and want to re-create that.
I must admit, they say your iodophore should look like beer but mine looks like coffee and I go through a 1/2 quart of it every time I do anything with my beer. It’s expensive, but my personality with control. I can’t imagine anything living through my dissinfecting procedure. That said, I have bottled my beer with slime mold from month old coffee sitting right next to my bottling bucket. As far as I can tell, so long as you make sure everything that touches your brew is clean, nothing can go wrong.
Those kits are fine… in that it’s also fine to eat bologna sandwiches on cheap white bread. :eek: It’ll fill you up, it won’t kill you, but better sandwiches can be made for the same amount of effort. 
When we’re talking about recipes, we’re really just adding more malt (unhopped varieties, rather than the prehopped cans), adding fresh hops (pellets or whole), boiling for a longer time (or boiling at all!), and perhaps making a spot of tea with some grains to start the process off. If you think the beers are “drinkable” now, with a better recipe, you’ll have to start hiding them from your friends!
All of the same processes are in use already, this just gives you more depth of flavors, and certainly a lot more control over the types of beer you want to create.
What are some opinions on brewing temperatures?
I really wanted to brew something (probably a weiss) months ago, but never got around to it. I’d really like to do one now, but I’m afraid of doing so when the temperature in my kitchen can easily reach 80 or 90 degrees.
You’d likely get a lot of off-flavors at those temperatures. I shoot for 66-72 degress for ales.
For a weiss, no problem. Wheat yeasts produce enough esters as it is. I’m assuming you are referring to “fermenting” temperature as opposed to “brewing” temperature. Most wheat yeasts will function quite nicely up to temps. in the high 80s.