It’s a 2014, right? It’s got to be under warranty. Take it to a dealer.
Because it would be significantly different from a routine indicator.
Currently warning lights come in three colors
Green for stuff you have activated like turn signals, cruise control etc
Amber for advisories like low washer fluid, low tire pressure
Red for important things that need your attention now like low oil pressure, brake failure, overheating (if equipped) and check engine.
What would you suggest that would convey urgency more than a blinking red light?
Nothing but I had a blinking yellow light - hence my comment that it should have been a diffent color if they intended for me to stop.
It’s better than nothing.
One thing places like Auto Zone can so for you is zero out the error and reset the check engine light to “off”
This comes in handy if you are getting your car inspected and the “check engine light” is on, your car won’t get the sticker. So, stop into an AutoZone, get it nulled out, and then get it inspected.
As to the OP, your situation reminds me of a time I had with my BMW. Rough running, bad acceleration, and the check engine light came on. I turned off the car, let it sit, and started it up again. Same problem, so I ran it for about 15 minutes and did the same thing, stopping at a gas station to fill it up with a new tank of gas.
That seemed to do the trick. My thought at the time was that i had a bad tank of gas, with some dirt or whatever in it, which contaminated the fuel injectors. Once the dirt was dislodged and run through the system, the car accelerated and ran just fine and the check engine light turned off.
In your particular case, you must be under warranty… Take it to the dealer and get it checked out. Don’t bother with AutoZone or any other place. The dealer will take care of it properly and under warranty, and the problem will be on record. If it keeps occurring, you may be able to get a new car under your state’s lemon law.
Not sure I follow you. A blinking light is to get your attention. A check engine light is to get your attention. What color would you need to see blinking that would make you pull the car over if a blinking check engine light didn’t work? Why would you believe a blue light over a blinking yellow one?
If a yellow constant check engine light means something less urgent than stop immediately, perhaps a red (same color as stop signs and stop lights) would be better for a condition that means stop immediately.
My reaction to the blinking yellow was to have my wife use her phone to find the nearest dealer and we went there. We were on an interstate in an unfamiliar area.
There is a lot to be said for using colors consistently.
There’s also a lot to be said for reading the manual 
A lot to be said about not making assumptions. The manual doesn’t mention a blinking check engine light. The only entry is that if the light comes on while driving you should see a dealer as soon as possible - nothing about stopping and having your car towed.
Which is my point for commenting in the thread. The manual says one thing, the mechanic at the dealer said something else and searches on the internet are mixed. Being the internet, it is very likely that people not actively participating in the thread will see it and now know that a blinking check engine light means something more than readily available sources might tell you.
I posted because that is information that might be useful, unlike posts saying I should have known when there is no reasonable expectation for the average driver to know it. If there had been a comment in the manual, a single entry on page 388 of a 400+ manual still wouldn’t have raised it to the threshold of reasonable expectation of knowing.
That’s surprising. But I do understand your point. I actually didn’t know the CEL blinking vs non-blinking until I was driving my father in law’s car a few years ago. The instant I saw the CEL come on (amber in his car), I pulled over, thinking that’s what you’re supposed to do. Luckily, he had the manual in the car, so I went to the check engine light page, and that’s the first time I learned that CEL solid means “it’s okay to drive, get it checked out soon, though,” and blinking CEL means “pull over now.”
Depends.
Our cars don’t even need a scan tool to reset. Just pull a certain fuse for 20 seconds. (It’s in the Haynes manual.)
But … it takes a while for for the computer to fully go back into normal mode. (It’s still “learning” the car’s timing, etc.) This will show up in a scan as having been recently reset.
So in some areas and with some inspection stations, you will get flagged as having reset the computer too soon before inspection and told to come back later.
Maybe you need the scan tool, maybe not. Maybe it will pass inspection, maybe not.
The blinking amber/yellow check engine light makes sense when you look at the big picture.
Red warning lights are for the most dire situations. Low oil pressure or overheating can cause significant (read expensive) engine damage as well as result in a situation where the engine won’t run, stranding the driver. Furthermore, noticeable symptoms (other than the warning light or gauge reading) usually don’t appear until it’s too late to prevent severe damage – in many cars the light is the only indicator that one had better stop the engine right away.
The great majority of conditons that will trigger a check engine light are not that urgent. The more potentially damaging ones generally will be accompanied by noticeably poor running, alerting the driver to deal with it very soon – this week rather than next month. Engine misfire has a greater urgency to it, as if it’s allowed to continue long enough it can ruin the catalytic converter. Stopping the engine (or driving slower, if that stops the misfire) right away can save hundreds of dollars in repair cost. Even so, it’s not as catastrophic as the engine damage that the “red light” conditions can cause, and generally does not render the car undriveable.
So you have a light that usually doesn’t warrant ceasing to drive immediately, thus making yellow/amber an appropriate color. When it does indicate a situation (misfire) where it would be wise to stop, the consequences aren’t as severe as with the red light conditions. Having the light blink is a good way to get the driver’s attention without overstating the case.
You don’t need any stinkin booklet!
Get the code, the google it with your model and year.
Just thought I would update this (I wrote the OP). I went to the dealer. They were not able to find anything wrong, but one of the (background?) codes indicated that there was a low voltage condition, so they checked out the battery and charging system (found nothing wrong). They suggested I might have let the battery run down. I don’t think so, but I will keep an eye on it. At least they have a record of it.
Somebody upthread suggested I get my own code scanner so I looked into that. I discovered that those scanners differ greatly. While all of them return the basic codes, you need more advanced ones (that have the updated programming for your car) to diagnose difficult problems (never mind having an experienced tech interpret the information).
If I get one in the future (basically just for curiosity) I would get one of the OBD2 bluetooth interface devices and an app for my android device.