# re-shafting golf clubs **URL:** \ **Category:** The Game Room\ **Created:** [June 15, 2009, 3:00pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/re-shafting-golf-clubs/499836 "2009-06-15T15:00:12Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 11\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![phungi](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/phungi/32/395_2.png) [@phungi](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/phungi)\ **Post date:** [June 15, 2009, 3:00pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/re-shafting-golf-clubs/499836/1 "2009-06-15T15:00:12Z")
I picked up a set of Ping i3+ and the 4-5 irons have graphite shafts (Graphalloy ProLogic) while the 6-PW have steel shafts. I knew this when buying them, but didn’t expect to love the graphite so much. Ping wants $60 per club to re-shaft, and I paid less than $200 for the set. Turns out I can pick up these shafts for fairly cheap ($14 each) and I am pretty handy. Having no experience with club repair or building, I did some research and watched a few videos. It seems that the shafts are only “butt trim” so I have no chance of messing up the taper-end tip. The whole process seems pretty easy, but I imagine there are numerous areas that I might mess this up. Anyone have experience with golf club re-shafting? Any pointers or cautions? ---
**Author:** ![gonzomax](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/e8c25b/32.png) [@gonzomax](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/gonzomax)\ **Post date:** [June 15, 2009, 3:44pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/re-shafting-golf-clubs/499836/2 "2009-06-15T15:44:27Z")
[http://www.golfsmith.com/cm/](http://www.golfsmith.com/cm/) I have built several sets using Golfsmith components. They will send you a catalogue (maybe they have one on line) . When you buy the shafts ,you can order them butt trimmed. Then it is just mixing glues and aligning the logos. It is very easy to do. Order a rubber clamp for your vise. It allows you to hold and position the shaft . The grips are pretty easy too. the hard part is making a selection from all the ones offered. ---
**Author:** ![gonzomax](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/e8c25b/32.png) [@gonzomax](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/gonzomax)\ **Post date:** [June 15, 2009, 4:01pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/re-shafting-golf-clubs/499836/3 "2009-06-15T16:01:29Z")
i bought components for a set of clubs a few years ago. They arrived via UPS. By the time I got home from work ,my son had them all put together. He was around 18 yrs old at the time. ---
**Author:** ![Least\_Original\_User\_Name\_Ever](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/l/e480ec/32.png) [@Least\_Original\_User\_Name\_Ever](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Least_Original_User_Name_Ever)\ **Post date:** [June 15, 2009, 4:20pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/re-shafting-golf-clubs/499836/4 "2009-06-15T16:20:13Z")
Here’s how it goes down: You’ve got to break the epoxy bonds on the current shafts. Pick up a heat gun somewhere and use that. You can also try boiling them, but you might fuck up the ferrule (that little piece of decorative plastic above the head where the shaft enters), especially if you try moving it and it’s not quite ready yet. Ferrules are very cheap, though. If you screw one up, no worries. Anywhoot, break the epoxy bond and pull out the old shafts. Use some sandpaper in some incarnation to get the dried epoxy out of the clubhead. Get the old epoxy off the bottom of the shaft and try to slide the ferrule off the shaft. (If you need to get ferrules, as I suspect you will, pages 68 and 69 [here](http://s7ondemand1.scene7.com/s7ondemand/brochure/flash_brochure.jsp?company=Golfsmith&sku=2009_clubmaker_catalog&config=eCatalogConfigDefaults)will help you out.) After you get the old epoxy out of the clubhead, get some sandpaper and sand the tip of the shaft (the spot where it’s a different color from the rest. Insert your dick joke here.) Don’t go too crazy on it. You just need it a little rough so the epoxy will have something to bond onto. After you sand it down a little bit, clean it off (so as to remove any dust), slide the ferrule on the shaft, put some epoxy on the sanded portion, move the ferrule into the epoxy, push the shaft into the clubhead (which will, in turn, push the ferrule to the appropriate distance up the shaft), wipe off excess epoxy with acetone (don’t get too crazy because the acetone will screw up the epoxy bond if it gets in there. Don’t be scared, though. It’d take a drowning of acetone to get it in, probably.), align the shaft, and let the club sit for the appropriate amount of time (depends on the epoxy). Some things to think about: Are these new shafts the appropriate length? Are they the appropriate flex and torque? Are they tip-trimmed? If so, they’ll be stiffer than advertised. Are they frequency matched? Same weight? Same grips? A lot of those things are extraneous. When you get the shafts, you’ll have to put grips on them first, which I recommend doing. That way, when you put the club together, you can align the face of the club to the logo on the grip, if you align yourself that way. It’s a lot to throw at you, but it’s actually very easy. PM me if you have any questions. I’ve done it a loooooot of times. ---
**Author:** ![gonzomax](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/e8c25b/32.png) [@gonzomax](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/gonzomax)\ **Post date:** [June 15, 2009, 5:39pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/re-shafting-golf-clubs/499836/5 "2009-06-15T17:39:19Z")
I do not like graphite shafts. I would get frequency matched steel shafts instead. ---
**Author:** ![Least\_Original\_User\_Name\_Ever](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/l/e480ec/32.png) [@Least\_Original\_User\_Name\_Ever](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Least_Original_User_Name_Ever)\ **Post date:** [June 15, 2009, 7:35pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/re-shafting-golf-clubs/499836/6 "2009-06-15T19:35:27Z")
> [@gonzomax](#): > > I do not like graphite shafts. I would get frequency matched steel shafts instead. The shafts he has are frequency matched and are pretty solid. Graphite has come a long way. ---
**Author:** ![phungi](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/phungi/32/395_2.png) [@phungi](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/phungi)\ **Post date:** [June 16, 2009, 4:25pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/re-shafting-golf-clubs/499836/7 "2009-06-16T16:25:30Z")
thanks… there are no ferrules on the clubs, and the process seems easy. for now, the hard part is finding shafts. the shafts on my 4-5 irons are Graphalloy ProLogic A-Flex. It appears that these are not available anymore. I found one R-flex and purchased it from GolfSmith, along with some grips, epoxy, etc. and will give it a go on my 6-iron. If you can recommend a Graphite shaft, .355 taper tip, let me know. ---
**Author:** ![Least\_Original\_User\_Name\_Ever](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/l/e480ec/32.png) [@Least\_Original\_User\_Name\_Ever](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Least_Original_User_Name_Ever)\ **Post date:** [June 16, 2009, 4:36pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/re-shafting-golf-clubs/499836/8 "2009-06-16T16:36:54Z")
> [@phungi](#): > > thanks… there are no ferrules on the clubs, and the process seems easy. for now, the hard part is finding shafts. the shafts on my 4-5 irons are Graphalloy ProLogic A-Flex. It appears that these are not available anymore. I found one R-flex and purchased it from GolfSmith, along with some grips, epoxy, etc. and will give it a go on my 6-iron. > > That’s right. Ping irons did away with ferrules a while ago. It’s the drivers that have all sorts of odd ferrules due to clubfitting. > > If you can recommend a Graphite shaft, .355 taper tip, let me know. A different flex could give you different distance and accuracy relative to the rest of your set. I’d have to do some serious tinkering to find out what shaft would be comparable to have in your set. ProLogic shafts are pretty damned solid. I’ve pretty much sworn off them because I’ve snapped many a graphite shaft in my day, even on irons. Like I said before, though, graphite has come a long way. Check [this](http://www.bestvaluegolf.com/gs-3884i.html)for your shafts. I haven’t dealt with them before, though. ---
**Author:** ![gonzomax](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/e8c25b/32.png) [@gonzomax](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/gonzomax)\ **Post date:** [June 16, 2009, 5:10pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/re-shafting-golf-clubs/499836/9 "2009-06-16T17:10:38Z")
[http://www.golfworks.com/Default.asp?bhcd2=1245172183](http://www.golfworks.com/Default.asp?bhcd2=1245172183) These guys have been around for a while. Email Golfsmith and these guys and they would probably be able to recommend a comparable shaft. Golfsmith has stores around here and you can talk directly to the guys who assemble clubs. ---
**Author:** ![Least\_Original\_User\_Name\_Ever](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/l/e480ec/32.png) [@Least\_Original\_User\_Name\_Ever](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Least_Original_User_Name_Ever)\ **Post date:** [June 16, 2009, 5:23pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/re-shafting-golf-clubs/499836/10 "2009-06-16T17:23:18Z")
[Dad](http://images.encyclopediadramatica.com/images/f/fa/Billy_Mays_Shut_Your_Whore_Mouth.jpg)? ---
**Author:** ![gonzomax](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/e8c25b/32.png) [@gonzomax](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/gonzomax)\ **Post date:** [June 16, 2009, 7:14pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/re-shafting-golf-clubs/499836/11 "2009-06-16T19:14:22Z")
> [@Least\_Original\_User\_Name\_Ever](#): > > [Dad](http://images.encyclopediadramatica.com/images/f/fa/Billy_Mays_Shut_Your_Whore_Mouth.jpg)? I see a spanking in your future,.