# Remove a light switch without risk?

**URL:** https://boards.straightdope.com/t/remove-a-light-switch-without-risk/283728
**Category:** Factual Questions
**Created:** [January 8, 2005, 8:14am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/remove-a-light-switch-without-risk/283728 "2005-01-08T08:14:55Z")
**Posts on this page:** 4
**Page:** 2

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### Author: ![TheLoadedDog](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/35a633/32.png) [@TheLoadedDog](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/TheLoadedDog)
#### Post date: [January 9, 2005, 11:36pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/remove-a-light-switch-without-risk/283728/21 "2005-01-09T23:36:41Z")

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> [@GawnFishin'](#):
>
> **TheLoadedDog** unlike homes in Australia power outlets in north American homes are not controlled by a switch as in Australian homes. The only switches are for lights and in some cases lights are run off the power outlets such as in the case with lamps. You wont see a power outlet that you plug you toaster into with a switch beside it. I believe it’s got something or rather to do with the whole 240v Aust 110v North American thing. Regular power outlets this side of the pond there is no “on/off” switch. And if it is controlled by a switch the switch will be where you would expect for find the light switch.
> 
> [American style outlet](http://www.gawnfishin.com/sdmb/PoweroutletAmer.jpg)  
> [Australian style outlet](http://www.gawnfishin.com/sdmb/PoweroutletAust.jpg)
> 
> Hope that helps.

Thanks. That does help. I actually think I _knew_ this, but had completely forgotten it.

**Xema** , you are spot on too. I misread the OP slightly.  
Now it all makes sense.

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### Author: ![spingears](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/ebca7d/32.png) [@spingears](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/spingears)
#### Post date: [January 9, 2005, 11:40pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/remove-a-light-switch-without-risk/283728/22 "2005-01-09T23:40:49Z")

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> [@rjung](#):
>
> I have a room in my house where the light switch is wired to a grounded electrical outlet. That is, if you turn the switch “on”, the outlet gets power. If you flick the switch “off,” the outlet is dead. I want to take out the switch, patch the wall, and set it up so I’ll always have power to the outlet.

Eliminate ANY future problem with the B to W wire in the switch box.  
Cut of the power and pull the outlet receptacle from the box.  
You should find a black wire goint to the brass terminal it’s white mate connected to one of the other pair(black). The second wire of that pair is connected to the silver colored screw of the receptacle. This pair is run to the switch leg. disconnect the switch leg and wire nut the pair are replace in back of box. Connect the white wire of the supply to the silver screw and TEST. Be sure receptacle has power, then you can test the pair in the switch box for power. Remove box, wire nut wires and patch wall. 🙂  
You might possibly be able to pull the wire out of the wall completely by pushing the receptacle end throught the clamp and into the wall. 🆒

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### Author: ![wolf\_meister](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/wolf_meister/32/15202_2.png) [@wolf\_meister](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/wolf_meister)
#### Post date: [January 10, 2005, 3:21am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/remove-a-light-switch-without-risk/283728/23 "2005-01-10T03:21:49Z")

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I think it is time for a visual aid here.  
I was planning on adding something like your wiring situation to my website so here it is:  
[http://www.1728.com/swtcloop.htm](http://www.1728.com/swtcloop.htm)  
Yeah it is still a little crude but I think it illustrates the **switch loop** concept pretty well.  
What if you

1. SHUT OFF THE ELECTRICITY,
2. Unscrewed the wire nut,
3. and then connected the wire at Point A to the terminal at point C.  
This eliminates electricity from flowing ANYWHERE within the switch loop (that is, the section of cable running _from_ the first electrical box _to_ the switch.

Yes, the diagram shows a light socket instead of an outlet but the principle is still the same. The only problem _might_ be that occassionally a switched outlet has been ‘split’ so that half of it is always active and the other half is switched. My advice is to replace the outlet. (They’re cheap.)

I’m not familiar about the electrical code concerning “dead” switch boxes but maybe some other “Dopers” have suggestions.

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### Author: ![spingears](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/ebca7d/32.png) [@spingears](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/spingears)
#### Post date: [January 10, 2005, 1:47pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/remove-a-light-switch-without-risk/283728/24 "2005-01-10T13:47:35Z")

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Minimize the work of eliminating the switch.  
Isolate the switch loop by connecting outlet to supply line and wire nut the loop.  
Remove swithch and wire nut the wire ends. With the switch removed the box should be below the wall surface so that the box can be filled with a scrap(s) of wood and a piece of wall board just below the wall surface. Aplly several thin coats of spackle, sand and paint. Final results accomplish the origianal objective with minimum work and alterations. 🙂

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