I looked at the questions on Amazon, and I didn’t see anything about removing factory graphics. How does it ‘get under’ the sticker, and into the adhesive? (Looks like the aerosol would be the best option.)
When I’ve used similar solvents, I’ve found that the viscosity is nil and it’ll attack the adhesive from the edges and work its way inwards by capillary action. I’d be surprised if it was quite as quick and easy as friend says, but he’s the guy in the biz and I’m not.
Before and After pics. I initially tried using denatured alcohol on it. I was able to pick at a corner, but it wasn’t really working. Then I used my wife’s hair dryer. It tripped a circuit breaker, but it got the graphic soft enough before that for me to peel off. I wiped it with denatured alcohol afterward.
Thank you, everyone, for the advice.
Haha, great result.
Yaay!! Success is all that matters. At least from here the paint condition looks real good.
… and you got a face to prove it … 
Piggy back question
The morons cracked the front fairing/cowling when they took it off. I’ll need to repair the crack before painting, and plan to use epoxy to glue it back together. I believe the plastic is ABS (Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene). I thought I had a picture of the fairing, but I don’t. (I did find the receipt for the paint I bought, and I see that the box-o-paint has a can of clear coat in it. So at least I don’t have to worry about choosing a random paint that will yellow.)
What kind of epoxy should I use to repair the cracked fairing?
Could you fix the crack using some kind of nasty solvent (1,2-dichloroethane, butanone, etc.)?
Or some type of cyanoacrylate?
I don’t know. As the front fairing, I expect it to be subject to pressures and bending (even just leaning on it or something). Right now my plan is to epoxy the crack, and then epoxy down a strip of fiberglass cloth along the break on the inside. After that, I plan to sand the joint on the outside, and smooth it out with body filler. (Once again, I don’t know what I’m doing.)
Maybe this:
that … the main “load” will have to be taken up by some sort of rear-bracing …
do a careful job of prepping the thing, sanding, etc… you really want to have any epoxy etc… bite into plenty of rough surface
and a (generic) +1 on the JB-weld … I have good experiences with this stuff …(but different applications)
Regular old 5-minute epoxy? Sounds like it might work.
There’s a frame with two bolt attachment points at the rear ‘points’, and two bolt attachment points at the headlight. [The headlight is attached to the frame, not the cowling.]
Yes.
They imply a special formula for plastic, and the MSDS shows a different composition for part B vs. regular JB Weld so it may be more than marketing.