# Replacement Windows: Advice Request **URL:** \ **Category:** In My Humble Opinion\ **Created:** [November 8, 2002, 2:30pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/replacement-windows-advice-request/135883 "2002-11-08T14:30:03Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 9\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![ShibbOleth](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/848f3c/32.png) [@ShibbOleth](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/ShibbOleth)\ **Post date:** [November 8, 2002, 2:30pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/replacement-windows-advice-request/135883/1 "2002-11-08T14:30:03Z")
A while back one of our second floor windows just up and fell out of it’s frame. It’s a casement window (cranks open like a door instead of opening up and down with a sash). It was open at the time and the best that I can guess is that somehow the hardware had got off track and then the bottom bracket couldn’t support the weight. The window didn’t actually break but the wood was pulled away from the window framing where the bracket had been attached. I called a window company, which said that I had to call a wood company to build a new window and then they could replace the hardware. Total cost was about $400-500 dollars, for one window. So I went to the hardware store, and they carry similar windows for about $200. But I’m thinking for either amount, it might just be best to replace the whole window set (it’s a two window set) and use this for a test to see if we like the replacments. So, two questions: 1. Does this sound like a reasonable track to pursue? and 2. Any recommendations on brands of windows to replace with? What sort of things should we consider. As further background, we live in a semi-upscale neighborhood that is about 20 years old. I think that wood or brick is required as siding by home covenants, so I don’t know if we’re even allowed to use a vinyl or aluminum frame. Our exterior is a wood product and the current windows have wood frames. Thanks! ---
**Author:** ![NutMagnet](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/n/ea5d25/32.png) [@NutMagnet](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/NutMagnet)\ **Post date:** [November 8, 2002, 2:42pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/replacement-windows-advice-request/135883/2 "2002-11-08T14:42:53Z")
Shibb: does it look something like this? [http://www.gorell.com/pages/projecting.htm](http://www.gorell.com/pages/projecting.htm) If you can get a vinyl replacement that looks like the others in the building, try for that. Wood will require maintenance. ---
**Author:** ![happyheathen](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/h/b5e925/32.png) [@happyheathen](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/happyheathen)\ **Post date:** [November 8, 2002, 9:50pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/replacement-windows-advice-request/135883/3 "2002-11-08T21:50:41Z")
Don’t worry so much about what is there - consider what you want to be there - a window is a hole covered with glass in a frame - unless you really love casements (I don’t), look around. I used “anodized” aluminum about 20 years ago - the frames are OK, but the “anodized” screen frames turn out to have been coated - the corrosion is getting under the coating (read: paint). Not a happy camper. I recommend Anderson, and suggest you look at the vinyl-coated models. [http://www.andersenwindows.com/homeowner/index.asp?p=10000000](http://www.andersenwindows.com/homeowner/index.asp?p=10000000) Window replacement is a viable DIY project, so beware of outrageous labor estimates. And - you say it is a two-window set - if that is two separate windows, the wall is probaly framed with two separate holes - it would be a structual thing (probably) to decide to make it one big window. But, while you’ve got the wall open, this would be the time to do something of the sort. ---
**Author:** ![ShibbOleth](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/848f3c/32.png) [@ShibbOleth](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/ShibbOleth)\ **Post date:** [November 8, 2002, 10:56pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/replacement-windows-advice-request/135883/4 "2002-11-08T22:56:50Z")
**NutMagnet** , that’s pretty much what it looks like, but the picture you linked to is dynamic, so it’s not always the same window pictured. **happyheathen** , I’m not wild about installing a window myself, particularly on the second floor. I’d probably botch it up pretty much and drop the new window out through the hole. I think it’s just a big hole right now with a wooden brace down the center between the two windows that open out. Why do you recommend Andersen? What makes one window better than another? As reference quality is a more important consideration than cost, although cost is a mitigating factor. ---
**Author:** ![unclviny](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/u/e274bd/32.png) [@unclviny](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/unclviny)\ **Post date:** [November 8, 2002, 11:08pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/replacement-windows-advice-request/135883/5 "2002-11-08T23:08:53Z")
shibbOleth, i looked at windows forever (pella, anderson etc.) and i went with “gulf coast windows” they were the most expensive (by far) but they are an amazing product, they are manufactured in kansas (kc i think) and i do not know where shell beach is so i’m sure your local company has another name, i suggest that you go to “[troubleshooter.com](http://troubleshooter.com)” and look for tom’s referral list for your area, i live in deed restriction hell and they love my vinyl windows. unclviny ---
**Author:** ![happyheathen](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/h/b5e925/32.png) [@happyheathen](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/happyheathen)\ **Post date:** [November 9, 2002, 2:26am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/replacement-windows-advice-request/135883/6 "2002-11-09T02:26:54Z")
Things to look for: Rigidity (frames can warp, glass doesn’t do well). Weatherproof - obviously, but: It is simple to make something waterproof - getting it to stay waterproof is a trick. Additionally, UV resistance is a biggie, and plastics are notorious for “sun rot”. Anderson has a good rep - you have experience with what happens when water gets trapped inside wood (dryrot). Find a new window which won’t allow that to happen. ---
**Author:** ![happyheathen](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/h/b5e925/32.png) [@happyheathen](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/happyheathen)\ **Post date:** [November 9, 2002, 2:39am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/replacement-windows-advice-request/135883/7 "2002-11-09T02:39:26Z")
Additional $0.02: 1. That “wood brace” between the windows is structual - don’t mess. 2. I installed my own (from the inside 😉 ), so I have never dealt with “professional window replacement specialists”, BUT: I suspect they are rip-offs, like so many home repair deals - you may well get a good product, properly installed, but you will pay more than necessary. 3. It will be 10 years before you know that your “custom made” windows are an good p.s. - yes, I _did_ install my own kitchen cabinets (another area noted for rip-offs) ---
**Author:** ![Hanna](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/h/b3f665/32.png) [@Hanna](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Hanna)\ **Post date:** [November 9, 2002, 5:14am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/replacement-windows-advice-request/135883/8 "2002-11-09T05:14:33Z")
I worked for Anders **e** n Windows for 12 years - I wouldn’t hesitate to put them in your house. And if things haven’t changed since I left the company, those windows are guaranteed for life. Something goes wrong, they leak, etc - they will replace them. ---
**Author:** ![happyheathen](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/h/b5e925/32.png) [@happyheathen](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/happyheathen)\ **Post date:** [November 9, 2002, 6:53am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/replacement-windows-advice-request/135883/9 "2002-11-09T06:53:29Z")
pick, pick, pick…