# Rock Climbing terms **URL:** \ **Category:** Cecil's Columns/Staff Reports\ **Created:** [November 21, 2000, 8:46pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/rock-climbing-terms/42175 "2000-11-21T20:46:03Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 20\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![denalione](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/bcef8e/32.png) [@denalione](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/denalione)\ **Post date:** [November 21, 2000, 8:46pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/rock-climbing-terms/42175/1 "2000-11-21T20:46:03Z")
Some that weren’t mentioned: Deck - to hit the ground on a lead fall. Crater - What you create when you deck. Beach whaling - real poor mantle technique. Usually consists of laying your upper body on the ledge and squirming onto it (the ledge that is). Waffle or pancake - flattening your body to close the rock on a friction pitch and losing the friction on your shoes. Pucker factor - fear indicator gauged by the tightness of your asshole. Bucket - a very lager hold that slopes inward making it very easy to grab. Run-out - when the distance between your pro placements is very large. If it’s too large on the first pitch you might deck or crater. Smear - using the friction of your shoes on the rock as a hold. Smear moves on a run-out pitch can cause a high pucker factor. Flapper - The little flap of skin on your fingers after you suffer from a friction avulsion. Sink - To put in a piece of pro PPP or Purely Psychological Pro - Something you sink on a run-out pitch that you know won’t hold you when you fall but looks nice and reduces the pucker factor. Beta - To get route info from another climber before you do it. KFC eater - Tourists who come to the climbing areas with large buckets of chicken. Tourist Baiting - A game you and your fellow climbers play. Whoever can tell the most outrageous lie to a KFC eater about climbing and still is believed is the winner. Roadrunner - similar to flailing. When your feet are scratching in place cause you can’t find a good foothold but are too scared to stop and smear. Dyno - launching your entire body in order to grab a hold out of reach. You don’t want to do this on the first, run-out pitch cause you might crater if you miss. Sandbagging - rating a climb higher or lower than it really is. This is to make you look better or someone else look worse. Anybody got anymore? ---
**Author:** ![JillGat](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/9fc29f/32.png) [@JillGat](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/JillGat)\ **Post date:** [November 21, 2000, 9:41pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/rock-climbing-terms/42175/2 "2000-11-21T21:41:12Z")
And the staff report is here: [http://www.straightdope.com/mailbag/mclimb.html](http://www.straightdope.com/mailbag/mclimb.html) Thanks. Some of those brought back memories (been “sandbagged” - in the sense of being told a climb is much easier than it was - more than a few times) and some are new (I just heard “beta” for the first time fairly recently). I did use “crater” in the text. - Jill ---
**Author:** ![retsin2000](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/c6cbf5/32.png) [@retsin2000](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/retsin2000)\ **Post date:** [November 21, 2000, 10:36pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/rock-climbing-terms/42175/3 "2000-11-21T22:36:08Z")
IANAC but I seem to remember this fun term that my climber buddies used. Big Red Smile - when the lead climber is a good distance above and to the side of the last placed pro or bolt and s/he falls. The smile is the bloody mark left on the rock from the resulting swing. ---
**Author:** ![Wallrat9](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/w/258eb7/32.png) [@Wallrat9](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Wallrat9)\ **Post date:** [November 21, 2000, 11:40pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/rock-climbing-terms/42175/4 "2000-11-21T23:40:32Z")
Free solo: To lead a climb using no ropes or safety equipment. Best to know the climb REALLY well. Rappel: To descend a rock using rope(s) and a breaking device attached to your harness. Free solo rappel: What happens if you make an oops while free soloing or if you forget to tie into the rope on normal rappels. Can also be used as a general reference to falling of any kind. Rock Beaver: A very crude mention of a very rare animal on the rock. Raise your hand (or whatever) if you’ve ever gotten one of these. (see also, Rock Betty) Sketch: Anything not bomber. Includes holds, foot placements, and pro. Also another name for a fall. Payment to the gods: Anything you drop while climbing a big wall. Rock Fairies: Modern, lycra-clad climbers who use all the best gear, price tags still in place. Usually like to brag about what they’ve climbed. Gym bred. Wall Rats: Those sadistic climbers whose lives only make sense while on the ugliest piece of rock they can find. Known to spend lengthy time periods on the face. Recognized by their taoist attitude and shabby appearence. Duct tape on gear is a must, optional on clothing. ---
**Author:** ![Dr.Pinky](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/848f3c/32.png) [@Dr.Pinky](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Dr.Pinky)\ **Post date:** [November 22, 2000, 12:53am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/rock-climbing-terms/42175/5 "2000-11-22T00:53:32Z")
To Gaustone (sp?): To strike a pose when a camera is nearby; preferably something that the camera angle makes look harder than it is. To Drell: a descent technique involving maximum friction with one’s backside. ---
**Author:** ![denalione](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/bcef8e/32.png) [@denalione](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/denalione)\ **Post date:** [November 22, 2000, 1:06am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/rock-climbing-terms/42175/6 "2000-11-22T01:06:45Z")
-JillGat Thanks for posting the URL for me. I had a sad and sweet reminiscent moment typing those in. I used to love to climb, but unfortunatly I dont get to anymore. I can still see the expressions and here the voice inflections of my friend when they said them. I remember one time we were 400’ up a climb and a thunderstorm came in from the backside of the mountain and suprised us. There we were with racks of metal around our waists and wet ropes hanging over the side of the mountain running right to our bodies. Figuring there wasnt much we could do we started singing Billy Joel and Doobie Brothers songs in 3 part harmony. I dont remember the climb though, but thats how most of my climbing stories are. Most of them deal with things that happened to and from the climb. Anyone have cool epics they want to share? ---
**Author:** ![denalione](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/bcef8e/32.png) [@denalione](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/denalione)\ **Post date:** [November 22, 2000, 1:48am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/rock-climbing-terms/42175/7 "2000-11-22T01:48:11Z")
Pulling plastic: Climbing on a artificial wall. ---
**Author:** ![denalione](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/bcef8e/32.png) [@denalione](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/denalione)\ **Post date:** [November 22, 2000, 1:52am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/rock-climbing-terms/42175/8 "2000-11-22T01:52:44Z")
They just keep popping into my head. Wig: Freak out Grobies: Pieces of flesh left on the rock. ---
**Author:** ![JillGat](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/9fc29f/32.png) [@JillGat](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/JillGat)\ **Post date:** [November 22, 2000, 11:18pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/rock-climbing-terms/42175/9 "2000-11-22T23:18:17Z")
[[Big Red Smile - when the lead climber is a good distance above and to the side of the last placed pro or bolt and s/he falls. The smile is the bloody mark left on the rock from the resulting swing.]] Woo hoo, yeah, way worse than a simple “pendulum” (and there are a lot of other terms for that I can’t think of right now). Once I sat on a very very exposed, slanted belay platform about 800 ft. up with the leader above me having placed poor protection (didn’t know how to use runners worth shit), and the rope stuck in a crack in the rock so he couldn’t pull up the slack, so I could climb. A thunderstorm was moving in and my ice ax - stuck in the back of my daypack - was buzzing from the electricity. Down below there were some hikers on the trail eating granola out of a bag and leisurely watching birds with binoculars. I was so jealous! I had to use prussiks! Yikes! Later I thought it was a really fun time, though. ---
**Author:** ![Dr.Pinky](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/848f3c/32.png) [@Dr.Pinky](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Dr.Pinky)\ **Post date:** [November 25, 2000, 7:54am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/rock-climbing-terms/42175/10 "2000-11-25T07:54:19Z")
I thought a Betty was the one who brought the scotch (and chocolate), or is that the difference between a Betty and “a real Betty”? * * * This is where I wanted to put that. ---
**Author:** ![RM\_Mentock](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/e274bd/32.png) [@RM\_Mentock](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/RM_Mentock)\ **Post date:** [November 25, 2000, 5:47pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/rock-climbing-terms/42175/11 "2000-11-25T17:47:31Z")
> [@](#): > > \*Originally posted by denalione \* > \*\*Anyone have cool epics they want to share? > \*\* Once reached up to grab a large hold and pulled out a piece of the wall that went to my waist, and about two feet wide. I was standing on a two inch ledge two hundred feet up and had to hold the boulder in place while my belayer unhooked and moved to a spot more off to the side. Here’s one: have you ever rappelled on a single line, with a severed sheep shank? I have, but not out of necessity. Just so this doesn’t get moved to MPSIMS, ObTerm: _Piton_ (Sure, it’s obsolete, but you still see 'em around. They were before my time, but I used to carry one to work out chocks.) A piton is a metal spike that is driven into the cracks in the rocks as a protection. Overuse of pitons made cracks too wide, and made some climbs too easy–climbers could just nail their way up a face, which was called aid climbing. Aid climbs were rated 6.0 and above. The original scale had free climbs rated 5.0-5.9, but it wasn’t long before some of the old aid routes were freed, and they became 5.10, then 5.11, 5.12, 5.13, etc. What are we up to now? ---
**Author:** ![denalione](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/bcef8e/32.png) [@denalione](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/denalione)\ **Post date:** [November 26, 2000, 3:16am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/rock-climbing-terms/42175/12 "2000-11-26T03:16:26Z")
I once had to rap off a knot jam. We took a 3 ft loop of 1" webbing, tied a figure eight in it, and jammed it behind a partially detached block. That was fun. The last I heard the ratings were at 5.14 c or d. Its been a while though. smack: when you “smack” a wall after a long pendulum. ---
**Author:** ![Spiny\_Norman](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/9de0a6/32.png) [@Spiny\_Norman](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Spiny_Norman)\ **Post date:** [November 26, 2000, 11:12am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/rock-climbing-terms/42175/13 "2000-11-26T11:12:23Z")
A few European/Scandinavian ones: “Kuffertgreb” - i.e., “suitcase handle”, the ultimate handhold. “Fuglebad” - “birdbath”, handhold with room enough for both hands. “Abseil” - rappelling. “Diedre” - “corner” in the face of the rock - a perfect, right-angled groove. “Hangeltravers” - traverse with few or no footholds, you’ll have to hang (German: “hangel”) from your arms. Do other countries name climbing routes as creatively as it’s done here ? Sample routenames from “Kullen” in Sweden (the nice thing about climbing at Kullen is that when you find a good handhold, you can probably take it home with you): Logical names: - “Small men’s failure” - short people can’t reach the first hold. - “At least 1,75” - same problem. - “One tricky Corner” - the crux is at the corner. - “Pointy toes” - **very** small footholds. - “High Traverse” - higher than the “Low Traverse”. (Cool route, btw - the wall rises from the sea, so there’s no risk of cratering, you’ll hit the water and the waves will throw you into the rocks instead.) Creative names: - “The shaky cheese” - “Thirty-eight and overweight” - “Ballet of the unhatched chicken” - “Mating dance of the gorilla” - “Polydipsi the psychologist” - “The road to Fort Zinderneuf” - “No picnic on Mount Kenya” - “Fonzie’s Fuck-up” - “King Frederik breaks the speed limit” Metanames: - “This route name is misleading” - “I’ll do anything to get my name in the route guide” Crap, it’s been WAY too long since I last climbed. ---
**Author:** ![JillGat](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/9fc29f/32.png) [@JillGat](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/JillGat)\ **Post date:** [November 27, 2000, 12:27am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/rock-climbing-terms/42175/14 "2000-11-27T00:27:25Z")
Climbs in Oklahoma: Crazy Alice Scrotum (I was there for the first ascent) Silent Scream Critical Mass Dr. Coolhead Straight Face Dr. Kildare (Duane Raleigh fell and broke his ankle on this climb, giving him time to write the guidebook to Oklahoma climbing – hence the name) Captain Crunch KerPlunk Wet Dream Naked Hedge League of Doom Tuberculosis Gorilla Arm Boulder Buns Up Sea of Screams The Big Bite Anorexia Taken by Force Cheap Athletic Tape Amazon Woman (great face climb at Quartz mountain, 5.10) Last of the Dead Guys Thin Lizzy Field of Opportunity The Big Bite Soft-N-Pretty Some climbs in the Sandia Mountains, New Mexico Procrastination Smorgasbord Orange Sunshine Interrupted Journey Slipping into Darkness Cowboy’s Delight Beastie Big Pig (also Middle Pig) Chicken Chop Suey Pickle Crack of Black Corkscrew Clark’s Cramps Warpy Moople Masochist Variant Out to Lunch Bunghole Borer Birthday Cake Seamingly Hard The Happy Gnome Blood on the Blade Duck Soup Mexican Breakfast Bomb’s Away Bitch’s Brew Occasionial Freshman Miss Piggy Fear of Flying Alioth’s Nose Last Goodbye etc. ---
**Author:** ![Chronos](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/chronos/32/134_2.png) [@Chronos](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Chronos)\ **Post date:** [November 27, 2000, 12:55am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/rock-climbing-terms/42175/15 "2000-11-27T00:55:16Z")
> [@](#): > > Here’s one: have you ever rappelled on a single line, with a severed sheep shank? I have, but not out of necessity. Good lord, RM, I’ve never climbed anything more than the 40-foot artificial wall (well, OK, the hard side, but still) at summer camp, but I would never willingly trust my bodily integrity to a severed sheepshank! I hope that you at least won a hefty bet on that one! ---
**Author:** ![JillGat](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/9fc29f/32.png) [@JillGat](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/JillGat)\ **Post date:** [November 27, 2000, 1:52am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/rock-climbing-terms/42175/16 "2000-11-27T01:52:18Z")
[[Here’s one: have you ever rappelled on a single line, with a severed sheep shank? I have, but not out of necessity.]] Here’s hoping it _was_ out of necessity and not just for fun. Rappelling is more dangerous than climbing. And why the single line? Double line not long enough? A co-worker of mine rappelled off the end of a rope once. That was dumb. ---
**Author:** ![Dr.Pinky](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/848f3c/32.png) [@Dr.Pinky](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Dr.Pinky)\ **Post date:** [November 27, 2000, 7:19am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/rock-climbing-terms/42175/17 "2000-11-27T07:19:47Z")
I was climbing out the road once, had a wonderful handhold that broke off, I descried a nice arc and hit the wall, dropping the rock on my belayer’s head, who let go of the rope, plunging me to the ground. Good thing I was only ten feet up at the time. I used to climb with Gordon, who is 10 years younger than me and insanely agile. We were out bouldering (Handicapped Access) and I said it was time to descend. He jumped. (It was about 30 feet.) Once Daniel, Gordon and I were out ice climbing (Discontinental Rift) without the proper equipment, and got ourselves, um, stuck. The Juneau Mountain Search & Rescue Team came by and asked if they could get us anything. Gordon said yes, a spatula would be appreciated. Most of our expeditions devolve into slapstick because I’m crippled (can’t raise my left arm over my head) and my climbing partners are overweight (270-350). We enjoy ourselves, and haven’t killed ourselves yet. Term: gearhead. Someone obsessed with the accoutrements of climbing. ---
**Author:** ![Janice](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/3be4f8/32.png) [@Janice](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Janice)\ **Post date:** [November 30, 2000, 4:18am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/rock-climbing-terms/42175/18 "2000-11-30T04:18:39Z")
Can anyone answer this mystery of climbing? Why will they (would have been “we” before I had kids and gained an increased stake in staying alive) risk life and limb to retrieve a $5 stopper that’s been left for one reason or another? And if it’s $40 friend (forgive me - I’m sure my gear and prices are way out-dated), should that really make it make more sense? Please don’t tell me it’s all ego. More terms: screamer - long fall talus food - what you’ll be if you take a screamer and deck wanker - someone with pretty new gear and an increased probability of becoming talus food bird watching (my personal dictionary) - what I say I’m doing when I realize that to get off of the 100 foot pinnacle I’ve just climbed I need to jump to the neighboring peak over an enormous (to me)gap that goes all the way down. That is, jump to the bolt or (shudder) leave gear. Generally revealed as the being a chicken shit. ---
**Author:** ![wolfman](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/w/a8b319/32.png) [@wolfman](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/wolfman)\ **Post date:** [November 30, 2000, 11:47pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/rock-climbing-terms/42175/19 "2000-11-30T23:47:14Z")
Just a quick comment of the term Belay Betty. I’m not a climber, so I might be assuming incorrectly here, but My guess is that It’s related to the term ‘Skater Betty’. One of my personal peeves is that its not Betty, Its Beddy(or at least originally was) as in ‘the sluts who hang around like groupies and are easy to get into bed’. It just annoys me that girls who call themselves ‘Bettys’ are actually insulting themselves and don’t know it. okay, continue on. ---
**Author:** ![Irishman](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/i/b487fb/32.png) [@Irishman](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Irishman)\ **Post date:** [December 1, 2000, 3:36pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/rock-climbing-terms/42175/20 "2000-12-01T15:36:35Z")
How come there aren’t any “Engineer Betty’s”? ☹ [Next page](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/rock-climbing-terms/42175.md?page=2)