I guess we’ll be taking the long way from Estes Park. The trip sounds amazing. I’ll check out Black Canyon and Great Sand Dunes (the pictures on the NP site are amazing). Thanks for the recommendations!
Super Kapowzler, you’re scaring me.
It is true. It affects Lodgepole pine particularly bad. Summit County has been hit quite hard. We are pretty much all Lodgepole. What happened, is that in the 1800’s, gold was found up here, the forest was pretty much destroyed for lumber. Then, the fast growing Lodgepole took over, creating a forest of pretty much just one species.
This sitehas a map showing the affected areas. I get a drawing error when I click on it, but if you wait, it will down load and draw.
And I second the Dunes and the Black Canyon. Down at Mesa Verde, you won’t be too far from Telluride and Ouray. Very cool mountain towns in the beautiful San Juan Mountains. Also, Pagosa Springs has a nice little hotel with Great hot springs. I usually try to spend the night there when I’m in the area. Looks like their new ‘Luxury Suites’ are a bit expensive. We have always booked a regular room. Allows you full access to the springs, 24 hours a day.
I third the recommendation for the Bear Lake/Emerald Lake area. Since it’s in a valley it might make an east-coaster huff and puff a little but it won’t kill ya.
That’s a drag about the beetles, though. I haven’t been in that area since sometime in the mid-'90s.
I don’t recall there being many “hikes” in Mesa Verde. It’s mainly park in the lot of a particular ruin and drop down from the rim. Great place.
In Durango you might find some guided river trips on the Animas. I don’t think it’s very treacherous and I imagine it would be a blast for the kids.
I’ve got a lot of places to investigate, plus the beetle situation. This has been very illuminating. Thanks all!
DEFINITELY recommend Great Sand Dunes! I’m heading there myself in about a month. It’s mindboggling.
Black Canyon is a very cool choice as well. It’s been years since I’ve been there but I remember it being gorgeous and not that hard to get to.
Sunscreen, water, layered clothing - all very important. The weather can change dramatically very very quickly, so layers will help you cope with heat, then sudden downpours.
It should be mentioned that driving times on some of the roads can be different than what is ‘typical’. Around RMNP/Estes Park, the roads are full of switchbacks/hairpin turns, etc, and what looks like a twenty minute drive may take hours if a large RV is ahead (or 18-wheeler, or even sightseers such as yourself, LOL).
Having lived in Central Idaho at ‘altitude’, I also strongly urge sun ‘protection’ of both eyes and skin during sunny days (hats/SPF-oils, etc…). Plus, do not push yourself too hard ‘at altitude’ unless you are particularly healthy and/or adapted physically (several days at least IME). As an example, had a brother come visit me from central TX for elk hunting around Salmon, ID…and he was a VERY fit Amy ranger that could kick my ass physically (usually). I was smoking cigs and laughing down at him as he did his bestest to keep up with me along the ridges (~8500’-ish or so, I guess). I ended up having to carry his gear/weapon not long after we started, and am never gonna let him live it down. He had been at around 6000’ feet for three days prior to us going uphill, and it did him no good at all it seems, LOL. Just a little example of how altitude can unexpectedly sour a planned ‘good time’.
Enjoy the beauty of the mountains - and respect the wildlife, of course, blah, blah… Binoculars can be worthwhile should you enjoy ‘looking around’. One last thing, costs of typical things are often much higher when you get into the ‘back areas’ so finance accordingly.
Never mind - it looks like there actually are some little hikes in Mesa Verde around the Chapin Mesa area.
I’ve visited both parks in the past few years, and while the pin beetle thing is true, it didn’t diminish the experience, for me. I camped in Glacier Basin and Moraine Park campgrounds at RMNP. I preferred Moraine Park because the sites seemed to be a bit more private. Don’t miss Trail Ridge Road. There are a couple hikes up there (altitude). Otherwisw the Bear-Dream-Emerald Lake hike is nice. Lisa Foster has a nice book out on hiking RMNP.
I didn’t hike much in Mesa Verde because I only spent a day there, but that park is a must see.
Get reservations for the campgrounds. The NP ones fill up fast and you can’t depend on just getting a space during summer months.
I like the Moraine campground on the east side of RMNP. Lots of trees and nice spaces. The elk look tame. They’re not.
Mesa Verde is fairly easy for young kids. I took my kids there years ago, three kids from age 6 & down. They hiked just fine to the mesa ruins.
Dunno if I agree with staying in Denver for a night. It’s not like you’re going to grow a bunch of red cells overnight. I’d say just go on up and take it easy at altitude. Rest when you get tired and drink lots of water. Yeah, don’t forget the sunscreen.
As you travel from RMNP to MV (or the reverse), US-50 from Grand Junction to about Montrose or Ridgeway is booooring, IMO. I’d suggest zig-zagging around that part.
Independence Pass (Leadville to Aspen) is very nice, as is the famed Million-Dollar highway (Ouray to Durango). Great Sand Dunes is very interesting but the road from Walsenburg to Monte Vista isn’t.
The drive to the top of Pike’s Peak is interesting, dirt with 1000-foot drops if you wander wide. It’s a bit pricey per car, I’ve always thought, but it’s the only time you’ll ever get to drive to the top of a fourteener. Shift to low gear on the way down - don’t burn out your brakes. (That’s a good suggestion for a lot of downhill grades in CO, too). The famed gift-shop donuts are over-rated, IMO.
If you get near Aspen, make the side-trip to the Maroon Bells to its south. During the summer, after 9:00 am, you have to park north of the area and take a bus due to limited parking. Google it up for details.
The peak-to-peak highway (Estes Park to Nederland to Central City) is a very nice drive and I’d highly recommend it. I ride it often on my motorcycle.
As you choose your way, avoid the interstates and choose the roads with lots of wiggles - those are the nice ones. If you’ve got a carburated car, you might have trouble starting it at altitude. Take a can of spray ether along.
Unless you drive to the top of Mount Evans (@ 14,264 ft.) It’s $10 per car, but the road is paved. 
Moraine Campground, check. 
I’ve got to put together an itinerary. Thanks for the info on Mesa Verde Belrix. I was afraid we were just going to have to skip it, but I’ll investigate further at the Park website.
I am also a big advocate of Black Canyon of the Gunnison. So I third it (or fourth, or whatever the current count is).
Dunno why I forgot that. If I stand up and look out the right window, I can see Mt. Evans right now.
I should add that the youngest rode in the baby carrier for all the hiking. The youngest walker would’ve been about 3.5 years old, her older brother would’ve been 6.
One thing to consider when visiting Mesa Verde is that you need to reserve a spot for touring some of the dwellings. If you show up later in the day and expect to see Cliff Palace or Balcony House, you might be disappointed.
Thanks blondebear, that’s good to know. I’ll be closely examining the Park websites for information about campgrounds and reservations for everything.
Thanks Belrix, if your daughter could walk it at 3.5, my 5 year old should be fine.