# Scale Modeler Dopers - What's a good aribrush?

**URL:** <https://boards.straightdope.com/t/scale-modeler-dopers-whats-a-good-aribrush/234458>\
**Category:** In My Humble Opinion\
**Created:** [March 15, 2004, 5:05pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/scale-modeler-dopers-whats-a-good-aribrush/234458 "2004-03-15T17:05:51Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 8\
**Page:** 1

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![Balle\_M](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/13edae/32.png) [@Balle\_M](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Balle_M)\
**Post date:** [March 15, 2004, 5:05pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/scale-modeler-dopers-whats-a-good-aribrush/234458/1 "2004-03-15T17:05:51Z")

</div>

Getting back into plastic modelling after a 20 year gap and I need a decent airbrush.

Got any reasonably priced (\<$100) favorites?

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![VunderBob](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/v/839c29/32.png) [@VunderBob](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/VunderBob)\
**Post date:** [March 15, 2004, 6:17pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/scale-modeler-dopers-whats-a-good-aribrush/234458/2 "2004-03-15T18:17:27Z")

</div>

I have a Badger 350 that I haven’t used for about 20 years, and I don’t know if that model is even made anymore.

A large part of the model railroading world swears by Azteks when using acrylic paints, but I have no personal experience with either one.

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![Bumbazine](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/bumbazine/32/362_2.png) [@Bumbazine](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Bumbazine)\
**Post date:** [March 15, 2004, 9:26pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/scale-modeler-dopers-whats-a-good-aribrush/234458/3 "2004-03-15T21:26:35Z")

</div>

I’m not an expert, and opinions vary widely, so I would suggest you visit [The Atlas model railroad forum](http://forum.atlasrr.com/default.asp) and search on _airbrush_, where you can read the opinions of some folks who use theirs a lot.

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![VunderBob](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/v/839c29/32.png) [@VunderBob](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/VunderBob)\
**Post date:** [March 15, 2004, 10:20pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/scale-modeler-dopers-whats-a-good-aribrush/234458/4 "2004-03-15T22:20:02Z")

</div>

> [@Bumbazine](#):
>
> I’m not an expert, and opinions vary widely, so I would suggest you visit [The Atlas model railroad forum](http://forum.atlasrr.com/default.asp) and search on _airbrush_, where you can read the opinions of some folks who use theirs a lot.

There is also [www.trainorders.com](http://www.trainorders.com), if you’re interested in model railroading. They’re a pay site, however…

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![SirRay](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/cc9497/32.png) [@SirRay](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/SirRay)\
**Post date:** [March 15, 2004, 11:05pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/scale-modeler-dopers-whats-a-good-aribrush/234458/5 "2004-03-15T23:05:56Z")

</div>

if you’re getting back into airbrushing after 20 years, then probably the standard workhorse of the hobby, the Badger 200 (NOT the 200-20) is good for you.  
Single action yes, but that’s OK since model air-brushing is more like miniature spray painting (which a single action is like) which doesn’t really require fades, shading, shadows, etc that a double action is necessary for.

[http://walthers.com/exec/productinfo/165-2001](http://walthers.com/exec/productinfo/165-2001) to see one…

- Note: you can do much better on the price…

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![SirRay](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/cc9497/32.png) [@SirRay](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/SirRay)\
**Post date:** [March 15, 2004, 11:20pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/scale-modeler-dopers-whats-a-good-aribrush/234458/6 "2004-03-15T23:20:15Z")

</div>

Just a note: the Badger 200-20 is designed for **fine** work only.  
The Badger 200 (the standard model; there are different 200 models for say fingernail painting, etc) has different tips and needle combo so you can do very fine work (like adding weathering rust streaks to a damaged truck chassis) or heavy duty work (like painting a trailer van model Testor Metallic Steel or a 50’ PS-1 boxcar red) - yes, you have to change the tips/needles manually, of course, but this is easy, as is cleaning the 200.  
The 200 is quite sturdy, as ones I have had in the past have made the journey to “concrete floor land”, with no apparent damage in looks and no problems in operation.

The basic selling point of the Aztec was it was even easier to use than the Badger 200. Not sure about that…

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![bibliophage](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/bibliophage/32/7615_2.png) [@bibliophage](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/bibliophage)\
**Post date:** [March 15, 2004, 11:40pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/scale-modeler-dopers-whats-a-good-aribrush/234458/7 "2004-03-15T23:40:36Z")

</div>

This is more a matter of opinion than fact, so I’ll move this thread to IMHO.

bibliophage  
moderator GQ

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![Balle\_M](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/13edae/32.png) [@Balle\_M](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Balle_M)\
**Post date:** [March 16, 2004, 1:52pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/scale-modeler-dopers-whats-a-good-aribrush/234458/8 "2004-03-16T13:52:23Z")

</div>

Thanks for everyone’s help.

As it stands now, I’ll probably go with the Badger 200.
