While I agree that many of the fashions during that era were godawful, Gone with the Wind would be a good place to start for some better looking examples. Not everything had to be hideous. On a side note, I abhor working with boning, but have been contemplating making a corset as the really good "waist-trainer types cost upwards of $300. I am thinking if I get a good waist-trainer corset, I could make my proportions a bit more “normal.” Let me know your experience(s) with making those corsets.
Not that you asked, but this kit is what you want. The Edwardian/early Victorian corset pattern from Laughing Moon and all the material and accessories you need to make it. Use the Dore Straight Seam Corset pattern if you’re boyshaped, and the Silverado Bust Gore Shaped pattern if you’re curvy*. It’s a very natural hourglass shape, and SO comfortable for waist training or just wear as underwear, but it’s the sturdiest corset I’ve found anywhere. It’s also very easy to make, although all the pieces are a little daunting at first. But trust me, if I could do it, you can do it.
*If you’re extremely curvy or overweight, you want to spend some more and get steel and spiral boning, also available from Vogue. Trust me, it’s worth it when herringbone just laughs at your boobs and gives out halfway through a hot day. I’m rather perturbed that Laughing Moon no longer stocks it - steel boning used to be the default in their corset kit.
Ah, yes, boning.
When I made my corset-type thing for a renaissance fair costume, I was SOL. I have the oddest body type. I’ve got me some big, broad, masculine shoulders, a huge ribcage, and an ass out to here. Also really feminine legs, but that doesn’t come into play with the corset.
Anyway, I was despairing because the point of the vest (I have no idea what it actually is called…it’s like a corset that you wear on the outside, with arm holes. Anyone?) is to push my boobs up so that I have cleavage in my peasant blouse. The boning just wasn’t cutting it. Because my shoulders are so broad, I don’t have cleavage. I have a fucking valley.
So I bought some steel workshop rulers, like you get at hardware stores, and used those instead of normal boning. Worked like a charm, and was actually kind of comfortable.
~Tasha
Oooooooooooooh, super-cool. My junior prom dress was a victorian deal in black satin with boning and antique lace – I have done the boning thing before, not daunted so much as I just hate it! Of course, I was the only person at the prom covered from neck to ankle to wrist! I may have to get one of those corset kits. It would definitely be cheaper than buying one.
Thanks!
That’s precisely what I ordered a few weeks ago and am waiting on. 
Yeah, Gone with the Wind is nice and all, but lowcut ballgowns aren’t really appropriate daywear for a working photographer’s “wife”.
They may all be missing the trends. I’ve read more than one article saying that sewing is becoming very popular again. Here’s one http://www.post-gazette.com/pg/06305/734712-51.stm
Here’s the boring, dowdy day dress I’m going to make, from the same site. I just can’t not be authentic, spent too many years as a total garb nazi in the SCA.
Actually I get a little mad at the Civil War thing because it’s so damned EASY! I spent years making garb extrapolated from statuary fragments and now there’s a billion extant garments and magazines and photographs? Pffft.
Like the blue thing here ? It’s just called a “bodice”, although that’s not a terribly descriptive term. (In other eras or styles a bodice can be the top part of any dress or outfit.) Yeah, she has it laced wrong, but so do most women at Faire. (At least it’s not undercut, and she’s not popping out the top, right?)
If you want cleavage and aren’t too picky about authenticity, you need the so-called “Goddess Bodice” by a company I’m afraid may be out of business, as I’m not finding them on Google. OTOH, I can’t exactly remember their name. Monesco? Modesco? Modesta? Any other Rennies who can help me out here? Their bodices have (had?) sturdy thick black shoelacing on each side and one lace in the back, with a solid flat front. It’s not a peasant bodice, but not actually correct for a noble bodice either. What it is is incredibly supportive and comfy, and I’ve literally given a 19 year old cross dressing boy who weighed about 100 pounds soaking wet comfortable cleavage wearing one!
Fooey. I just bought a corset pattern (on clearance at Hancock’s!) and now you show me a kit. I don’t know if I’m actually going to make one; I want to make an 1850’s dress for pioneer-y type things, and it ought to have a corset if I’m going to be authentic (which I always want to do) but really–it’s just for church stuff and there’s not exactly a burning need to wear a corset. My ambition is to sew the dress on my treadle sewing machine instead of my modern one–but it might be enough of an accomplishment to get it done at all…
Very similar to what I wanted, so I guess it’s a bodice. Except mine kinda was undercut. Did a good job, though.
That actually sounds kinda cool. As I mentioned before, I don’t really care about authenticity, I just want it to look cool. 
I’m gonna ask a few friends of mine who are obsessive about renaissance fairs and see if they know what you’re talking about.
On edit: Is this what you’re talking about? Cuz I think I could make one of those, no problem.
~Tasha
Kinda like knitting. As a kid it wasn’t popular (though I learned some, as well as sewing and other crafts thanks to practically all the older females in my life) and now it’s experiencing a resurge in popularity. Not because we need to do it to keep our families warm and clothed but because we want to.
I read one blog who has some amazingly cute outfits she makes for her daughter, and in a recent post she linked to some of her fabric, which she sells online.
All this sewing talk makes me want to make that dress I bought material for and never did start. I really should, especially since it can be hard finding a dress that fits right on me (mostly in the chest and for length).
That’s actually not that bad, though I would have to spice it up with lace or something. I can’t help myself, I like embellishments and I would be wearing low-cut ballgowns as the wife of a photographer – remember, those guys actually made quite a bit of cash. You want to look your best, just in case one of your husband’s subjects decides he needs a hottie in the picture with him, right?
Oh, and I admire the hell out of your ability to re-create patterns. I am too lazy. I like to have my patterns pre-made by McCall’s, Butterick, Simplicity, etc. Heck, if they would have them pre-cut in the package, I’d pay more for them that way!
I am (very happily) surprised to find so many dopers who enjoy sewing not just for costume work.
As for cleavage – I gave that up years ago. My melons (I used to have VERY impressive cleavage) are now fruit roll-ups, thanks to my 200+lbs loss. Heck, they were still DD until the last 20lbs I dropped. Now, I just roll them up and hope they don’t slip out of my bra! No more bustiers or boobie dresses for me!
You probably don’t want to hear this, but sewing machines weren’t produced for home use until 1860. So if you want a spiritually draining exercise in authenticity, the whole bloody thing should be sewn by hand. In candlelight. Might as well use an electric machine!
Yep! At least, it LOOKS like it. I know for a certainty that “Odd Bodkin” is NOT the name on my label (which is in storage, so I can’t read it for you), but perhaps they bought the design. I hope they’re making them of the same quality material. If you want to make one, use at least three layers, one of them a very thick canvas and the outside a very thick brocade. Because there are no metal stays, the material has to do the holding-in work. $89 is actually a great price for the piece - I think mine was $120 or so at Faire about 5 or 6 years ago.
I don’t mean to be snarky about undercut, but they do drive me batty. As you found out, they aren’t the right shape for nice cleavage. The Renaissance ideal was a straight tube-like torso, with gently swelling curves up on top, not out in front. The bodice, after all, was the boob supporter before there were bras. A totally undercut bodice doesn’t support anything at all.
This would have been pretty flirty for the time. This is the one the teenage girl is wearing and her mother is yelling at her to put on a shawl or something so she’s decent! But still, it’s within the realm of acceptable.
This is just painful to look at. Not only is it a bizarre choice of materials, but there’s not a whit of support, and her boobs are too curvy within it. Ugly and impractical. Not a likely choice for a woman who would have owned at most three outfits.
This is pretty good for, say, the daughter of a shop-owner. Not something you’d be working the fields in, but not up to court standards, either.
This makes my teeth hurt. I hope I don’t have to explain why.
This, shockingly enough, really isn’t too bad. The sleeves are way too long for a working girl - not only would they be in the way, but they’re a total waste of expensive fabric - but the bodice isn’t bad. Notice how half of her breasts are down in the bodice? That’s what you want. She has an awful lot of cleavage showing, which tells us her charms are probably for sale, but NOT her shoulders, which is accurate. Shoulders were NOT for public display, not even for whores.
This is a good solid peasant’s bodice. Her boobs are restrained for all the bending and stooping she’s going to do in the field or kitchen. Her last-year’s-best-skirt is this year’s topskirt, tucked into a rope belt to form pockets for carrying vegetables from the field or some bits of yarn from the market. My only quibble is that it’s an awfully white shift for a poor woman who likely didn’t have Clorox in her laundryroom.
Maybe not for making everyday stuff from scratch, but it can still make a huge difference for mending, and for fancy stuff. A few cents of thread and an iron-on patch can double the lifespan of a $10 pair of jeans or flannel. And my mom’s making my graduation regalia for me: It would have cost $350 for me to buy my robe from the supplier, but she’s spent only $25 for material for one of the same or better quality.
And those complaining about the dearth of fabric stores need to move to Bozeman. Until a couple of years ago, Jo-Ann’s was the friggin’ anchor store of our mall (now, it’s Barnes and Noble, but Jo-Ann’s is still the second biggest).
Oh, I know that perfectly well. However, you can bet that I’m never going to do patchwork on that thing, and I do want to learn to use it. (Come the Apocalypse, I plan to be in business. :D) All those long, straight seams seem like a good way to practise and pretend a little bit. Besides, my dad put all that work into fixin up the machine and getting it into working condition…
I would also disagree that sewing for savings is dead. I sew because I like to save money.
Especially for my home; curtains, furniture slipcovers, covers for patio cushions, pillows for the couch. Special linens for the bed, curtains for the backyard canopy, all way cheaper to make than to buy. Not to mention gifts!
When I moved to this city, over 25 yrs ago, I could walk to three different fabric retailers, large, well stocked shops. I have watched as, one after another, they have disappeared. All that’s left now is some specialty household fabric outlets and they are all way out past the malls!
I have gotten my revenge by now acquiring most of my fabric from second hand stores. I scour the curtains, tablecloths and bed linens. You can get some amazingly fine fabrics for a song. Usually there is plenty of fabric in case there should be a tear or stain, to work around it! It requires, of course, that you just acknowledge that you are really a fabric collector. 
It’s very sad to see. I have done a ton of sewing for friends, mending jeans, knocking off favorite shirts, specialty stuff usually. I have also enjoyed sewing for kids, superchildren outfits with capes, girly fairy costumes, I am over the moon at Halloween, and, of course special needs for dollies!
I have saved a small fortune by being able to sew and, I dare say, have proved quite useful to the people around me. They are always grateful and impressed.
I am doing my best to keep it from dying out as I have now lured one of the six year olds that I make dolly clothes for into ‘helping’. It’s all part of my evil plan!
I’m bookmarking this thread to keep all of these links.
I am not good at sewing and I can’t say I really enjoy it because it is frustrating for me, however I do enjoy finally getting it right and creating something nice. I have made some Ren Fest type stuff and I have more costuming type things I want to do. Also I know I need to practice more to get better. I also used to frequent Wal-Mart a lot but I had to stop buying material because I had too much so I haven’t been to one in a while. I need to find out if my Wal-Mart still has their sewing center.
Another tip on Jo-Ann’s they often have sales on patterns. Look for the 50 cent and $1 per pattern sales, usually it’s only one or two brands and they usually limit it to 10 patterns. I stock up on them when they have the sales, but you have to be patient and watch the sales fliers. You can sign up to get fliers mailed out to you (although it never worked for me - I usually just watch for the ads in the Sunday papers).
One more thing: I have the custom corset pattern generator bookmarked. I haven’t tried it yet but maybe it will be of use to some of you.
Do any of you ever buy dress fabric online? If so, where do you recommend buying from, and what have your experiences been? (I do see your link to Vogue Fabrocs above.) Can you generally request samples?
We have a really good fabric store near here, but the other night I was browsing online and found what looked like some really great silk that was very reasonably priced. So I am wondering how it is to buy fabric online.
I don’t know of anyplace that WON’T send out sample swatches, although they have different policies regarding deposits, flat fees, keep it or return it, etc. Usually they have an FAQ or information on a “Sample” page to help. Sometimes it’s just easier to email them and ask.
I’ve ordered a few fabrics online, but it’s generally unsatisfying compared to the store. One of the best things about being in the store is inspiration, for me. I’ll see a fabric I wasn’t actively looking for, and get three ideas for what to build from it. Or I’ll hit the clearance table (like I said, Vogue has a dollar a yard table that is sometimes great and often crap) and stock up on basics. (I’m trying hard to stop the purchase of fabric without any idea what I’ll use it for, though. That’s a bad pack rat habit.)
The other reason online ordering is unsatisfying is simply how long the process takes. I can’t get bit by a sewing bug and whip something out this afternoon - I have to plan it two weeks ahead of time (one week for the swatch, and assuming I like it, another week for the fabric itself.) So online fabric is certainly an option, but I wouldn’t be happy with it as a replacement for brick-and-mortar stores.
Yes, I agree about ordering fabric for the same reasons. I do it anyway, because it’s just not possible to get, say, a fine batiste in my area, but I’m not happy about it. Does anyone know what the name is of that neat company that sells undyed everything, from silk to cotton to shirts and dresses? They changed their name and I keep forgetting it. Lots of fun, though, and we got the silk for my wedding dress from them. Lovely stuff.
Last night I had to go to Joann’s to get a few notions for a project; there was some very cute fabric on sale, and I got some to make a play dress and a ruffled skirt for my little girls. And it’s all the fault of this thread…but I’m excited about doing some sewing today!