If the OP doesn’t need an additional countertop outlet, then I think it’s a bad move to install one with a built-in high draw appliance on the same circuit. You’re unnecessarily increasing the chance of overload. Even though you have breakers to protect you, it’s better to wire your house so you don’t overload in the first place. Those of us who have replaced faulty Federal Pacific breaker boxes know that sometimes things don’t work quite as well as they should.
Good work, spot on. Most people won’t know to use the white as the hot going to the switch and the black as the switch leg.
Sounds like the rest of the posters have worked out the legalities concerning the code, so we don’t need to re-hash that stuff.
I’ve seen the air switch and wish I could use it. But unfortunately, the sink doesn’t have a pre-drilled cutout (the only one that’s there is in use) and is made of some sort of composite material—not steel. If it were steel, I’d consider drilling my own, but not knowing the material, I’m wary of cracking it or something in my attempts. (But I must say that the Dremel is looking mighty tempting!)
Again, thanks for the help—and thanks for boosting my confidence levels!
You can buy ground fault circuit breakers, which would allow you to protect the entire circuit and you don’t need a GFI outlet. This might be a good way to protect the switch without needing to have a GFI outlet before the hot line leading to the switch. Admittedly, GFI circuit breakers are significantly more expensive than regular breakers, so it might not be worth it to go this route.