Step-by-step?
- Contains an indicator to Signal exhaustion
- Dilute 1: 63
Post-dinner (i.e., post-drinks). So you can re-use the stop bath until an indicator says you can’t? The stop bath is, e.g., 1 cup of chemical ples ⅔ cup of… water? (Remember, I haven’t done this except for one semester 40 years ago.)
Yes, once the indicator says the stop bath is exhausted, you dispose of it and make more. A gallon will last you are really long time.
1:63 dilution is 2oz/gallon, I believe.
ETA:
buy this:
2 oz of stop bath per gallon of water?
Lot of folks these days skip the stop bath step and just use an extra rinse. Stop is important if you’re trying to wring every last penny out out of your fixer value, but otherwise it’s one more solution to manage that at home development scales doesn’t add value.
Yeah, it’s concentrated Acetic acid. A little goes a long way.
Do B&W film development first. It’s super easy and fun.
If you have a good recent-vintage DSLR or mirrorless camera, look into DSLR film scanning. It’s perfect for getting scans of the quality needed for Instagram or sharing here, and it takes just a couple of minutes to scan a roll. It’s superb for B&W, and a bit more challenging with color.
I use a tool called Negative Lab Pro in Lightroom for the conversion process, and that takes just a minute or two for a roll. This all beats shipping it out or using an Epson flat bed scanner for an hour to scan in a roll.
In the video below, the 4 photos I shared at the end were copied using my Fujifilm X-Pro2 and processed using Negative Lab Pro.
Pork_Rind’s right!
I don’t have any videos yet on B&W processing, though I really ought to do a few–I really want to be an encouraging voice for people who don’t know if it’s right for them.
And I got you covered for my take on Cinestill C-41 development…
I’m a real fan of simplifying my darkroom process and part of that is using liquid instead of powder chemicals. I’m partial to Ilford DD-X or Kodak T-MAX. Or even Kodak HC-110 assuming it’s available again. I try not to buy the liquid chems from Amazon though because they’ve sent me expired stuff before.
(second post so I don’t hit the “Youtube link” bug when I try to edit)
I reviewed the video and realized I had said something about Negative Lab Pro not round-tripping very well. That turned out to be user error–I had unknowingly been hitting some sliders and changing the sharpening that NLP was sending to Lightroom.
Once I figured that out I realized that it works absolutely fine round-tripping from LR to NLP and back as many times as you want.
Just go for it, you’ll be so happy you did. B&W chemistry is dirt cheap considering the number of rolls you can develop. Even the C-41 Cinestill color kit can do something like 30 rolls before you exhaust the chemicals.
That’s all way cheaper than commercial labs.
Yes, HC-110 concentrate is available–that’s what I use all of the time. I use dilution B as one-shot developer and it works great. I also have a bottle of Rodinal that I occasionally use, though that does produce slightly stronger grain, so I choose when to use that.
Yeah, we always used T-MAX products in our darkroom, and I was always happy with those.
I have a Nikon D3300 with a 18-55mm DX Vibration Reduction II Zoom Lens. I never use it, and it’s literally been gathering dust.
That’s absolutely perfect. You don’t need more than 16MP for this, and yours is around 24MP.
Get an adapter for the D3300 so you can attach a manual old-fashioned macro lens. I use the Canon 50mm Macro FD for this purpose. You want a manual one because digital ones are fly by wire and hunt, while you really want to lock in the focus super accurate and not touch it. Then use focus peaking to allow you to get the focus in.
Find a cheap copy stand on eBay, and a light source made for this purpose. That’s about it.
You can experiment before investing anything, using whatever macro lens you have, even if it’s digital, a tripod to hold the camera and a cheap light-table light source. Then use the evaluation copy of Negative Lab Pro. That’s what I did for a test drive so I could make sure this was for me, and once I realized it worked, I bought the proper gear.
I’ll happily answer any questions about this scanning process.
By the way, my Fuji X-Pro2 was gathering dust at the same rate as your D3300, until I realized I could be put to service doing this.
That’s a good lens, but for DSLR scanning you really want a macro lens for best results. To fill the frame and get the most of the the light from the light table, you need to shoot close, closer than a zoom would usually allow.
Doesn’t the D3300 accept any Zuiko lens? (I don’t think I have any Macro lenses, but the zoom might have it.)
But at this stage, I’d just like to process the film and deal with scanning later. One step at a time.
No idea…for the start you just want to find any lens that will get close to filling the frame with the image of your 35mm film frame.
(Sorry about spamming this thread with my videos, though it’s super rare to find a place where they are on topic, so here’s another one 
)
This is a short un-narrated video of me going out and shooting a roll of 120 film, with the actual shooting process skipped, and the developing and scanning steps shown sped up, just to give you a glimpse at the pretty chill process, with few places to mess up and not that much fancy gear.
To Pork_Rind’s point, I do the scanning process with the lights down low, not like I show in the video, but I wanted it to be easier to see.
Here’s the processing bill, FYI.
BW Dev Negatives only (35mm) - 1.0 roll @ $12.50/roll $12.50
E-6 Dev Film only (35mm) Not Mounted - 1.0 roll @ $18.00/roll $18.00
Scan 35mm Uncut Roll w/dev - 2.0 roll @ $11.00/roll $22.00
Subtotal $52.50
Sales Tax Bham 9.00 % $4.73
Total
$ 57 . 23
Collapsible light-proof bottles for storing your chemistry - squeeze the air out to make it last.
Patterson tanks are the gold standard these days.
Mixing beakers and film clips like the ones in this kit.
Photo-Flo - this is a lifetime supply.
I appreciate them! Though I haven’t had time to watch any except for the first one.
@Pork_Rind Any recommendations on kits? Easier for me that way.
HC-110…a liter will last a long long time, for $44 from B&H. No storing stock solutions. You mix up dilution B whenever you need it with something like 12ml in the amount of water you will be using.
Ilford Rapid Fixer (1L) for $22. Dilute this and store and reuse.
Photoflo for $15
If you really want stop bath, get some citric acid. I don’t use it for developing film.
That’s it. That’s enough chemistry for thirty or forty rolls I think.
Also a good darkroom thermometer. B&W chemistry works across a range of temps, but to get the best results, you time your dev to align with the temperature as measured.
Another plug for the Massive Dev Chart. I have it as an app on my phone.
Absolutely. Get that app. And for B&W, don’t bother with any timers, just use your phone and the Massive Dev Chart app’s own timer mechanism. (C-41 is a different story).
ETA: You will need a negative holder for the scanning part.
For starters, just 3D print one. Here’s a nice one: