Probably for the best. I think I would have done the same thing. If it makes you feel any better, none of the current generation AMD chips have integrated graphics at all so it’s not particularly unusual.
Man buying a computer in 2021 sure is volatile. Prices go nuts.
Worth a shot. Probably be fine. There’s even a stock cooler that comes with the cpu you could also try before shelling out an extra $40, definitely.
I mean, that cooler isn’t great, but it could be fine. It’s not like you’re trying to cool a cutting edge chip with heavy overclock. If you decide temps are an issue, you can always get the $40 one later.
EDIT: I just realized that the different socket can mean you might need a different mounting and thus potentially a different cooler. But google just told me that the 1200 socket (which you’re getting) uses the same heatsink mounting as 115x sockets, and your cooler is designed for 1155 / 1156 so yeah, should be good to go.
The stock cooler is… good enough to run it without it shutting down due to heat. You’ll want to replace it at some point because it doesn’t cool well under heavier loads and you’ll likely undergo some throttling where the BIOS lowers your processor clock speed in order to cut back on the heat it’s generating. That’s not something you’ll experience or notice if you’re watching Youtube videos or browsing the web but it will come up under gaming loads or other intensive tasks.
But feel free to use the stock cooler to start if you want to spread the cost out over a time frame. One more reason to invest in a tube of thermal paste!
Edit: You certainly don’t need a super fancy cooler since the i5-10400 doesn’t run that hot in general and your processor can’t be overclocked. No reason to invest in a fancy cooler or AIO or anything. But I’d still take a $30 cooler over the stock one.
This can impact on whether a new case is needed which was asked up-thread.
Some coolers will not fit in some cases. Some heatsinks can be quite large (see pic below). Of course, smaller ones are available too. You get what will fit and what you need. But if you are doing things like AAA gaming or video editing you probably need better cooling.
Also, newer video cards can be quite large. You need space in the case to fit all that.
I dunno… SSDs are SO fast that it’s hard to argue against having at least a 1 TB for your boot/primary app drive these days. Even the fastest consumer grade M.2 SSD is only $200. That’s ridiculously cheap, considering what you get.
I’m not arguing against big slow drives for archival purposes, but for everyday use by anyone? There’s no reasonable reason not to have a SSD in 2021 - it’s false economy of the worst sort.
That’s not what I was saying, though. I said that you want your OS on an SSD because the difference will be so noticeable. The difference for loading an mp3 file or Word document will not be noticeable. The “reasonable reason” for using an HDD in that circumstance is because (a) it’s about a third of the cost, (b) you’re not going to notice the difference and (c) you don’t give a shit about the relatively insignificant difference even if you did notice it.
None of which is to say NOT to use an SSD. I have tons of SSD storage. Yay SSDs. But using an HDD in those cases isn’t a real handicap and can essentially be a waste of money because all the gee golly of an SSD is wasted on pulling up a 960KB jpg.
Nobody is arguing against SSDs for main stuff, I have 1TB M2 SSD, and 2x1TB SATA SSDs as well as 2TB of older spinner. A lot doesn’t need SSD speed.
However, if I was to get a 4TB now, it would be a lot slower than the 2TB spinner. It’s where I backup old big files, but I don’t expect my old big files to take a day to copy to them nowadays due to technical flaws of the recent “archival” disks which nobody is telling you are achival. Just be careful when looking at those nowadays, is all I’m saying. I took my 2TB spinner from an old machine anyway.
SSDs do burn out. They tend to keep their data though, if I really wanted to keep my data (such as my work 300GB linux VM), I’d run it on an SSD, but back it up to a spinner.
Sadly, the Windows copy function remains simply awful (still single threaded unless you use robocopy but that is a pain). While my SATA drive has a theoretical throughput of 550 MB/s and my M.2 drive is even faster Windows never comes anywhere close to that when moving files.
Also, SSDs with overprovisioning and new wear leveling schemes give the SSDs a long lifespan…possibly longer than a spinner (depending on the spinner).
Sigh. Good times.
Yesterday I got the mobo in, and set everything up. The only thing that would power on when I hit the switch was a tiny flash of the “CPU not detected” light. This morning I took it to a local store, where they charged me $130 to replace the power supply.
Now it powers up, but I can’t get past BIOS, or UEFI. I see “boot priority” listed, but I can’t figure out how to put my old SSD at the top of the priority. When I load “optimized defaults,” at least it seems to try to load from the hard drive, but it brings me right back to the BIOS.
Making a Windows 10 boot USB now…hopefully that’ll be what I need.
Yep, 100% that’s what you need.
Standard advice is to disconnect all drives except your new C: drive (the M.2) in order to install Windows. This is what I did and it worked great. Once windows is installed, then you can add in your old drives. I would probably do them one at a time.
When you plug in your windows USB stick be sure to plug it around back in a 3.0 slot. (Assuming the USB stick itself is 3.0.)
Out of curiosity, what power supply did you get?
I’ve said it before, but this is both why I don’t build my own computers nor service my own car anymore. I get no flush of satisfaction from a job well done when I’m finished. No pride in “I built this with my own two hands.” I’m just not built that way emotionally. Nope, all I ever remember is the teeth-grinding aggravation involved in struggling through failures and sorting out non-intuitive problems 
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I do my own upgrades because it is just so much cheaper and easier to pop in a new video card, fan or power source myself than it is to haul a PC to some shop. But as I fish for a tiny dropped screw I always slightly hate myself for it 
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Update: it’s working! Yay!
Nice!!!
Congratulations, that must be a tremendous relief.
My curmudgeonly grumbling aside, congratulations 
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Huge relief, and once again, thank you for all your help!
I imagine the free space on C: is a nice change.
How are the temps looking? For comparison, my 10400 idles in the low/mid 30s. (Currently bouncing between 33° and 34° as I type this.)
The most demanding game I’ve played so far is Control (1080p Low) but the cpu never seems to go higher than low/mid 60s, which is well below throttle. In Steep (1080p Ultra+) it never even gets above low 50s, which is nuts. (The cooler fan barely even runs since I set my fan curve to not start ramping up until 50°.)
EDIT: Here’s a link to HWINFO64: Free Download HWiNFO Sofware | Installer & Portable for Windows, DOS
I’ve probably built six computers in the last twelve months and completely understand anyone who just doesn’t want to bother. It’s simple and easy… until it’s not and then it’s quite possibly some brain-wracking exercise where someone is trying to figure out a BIOS error or that their RAM is 1.5v but the board will only take up to 1.25v or some other bit of troubleshooting far outside the realm of “It’s like Legos for adults”. As an aside, I never really liked that phrase since Legos never had the same risk of breaking a $399 block because you popped it on wrong.
I personally enjoy the PC building experience and am usually able to look back on even failures or tough cases as learning experiences. But I 100% get anyone who would just rather buy a prebuilt or rely on someone else to build it. Frankly, you don’t even save all that much money these days (well, negative money right now when you factor GPU costs) so take the route that makes you the most comfortable.
Yeah for sure. It’s almost like if everything works you got away with something.