# Turn the key and I get a tic-tic-tic noise. Starter solenoid? **URL:** \ **Category:** Factual Questions\ **Created:** [May 30, 2009, 4:08pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/turn-the-key-and-i-get-a-tic-tic-tic-noise-starter-solenoid/498169 "2009-05-30T16:08:16Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 17\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![dropzone](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/dropzone/32/7515_2.png) [@dropzone](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/dropzone)\ **Post date:** [May 30, 2009, 4:08pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/turn-the-key-and-i-get-a-tic-tic-tic-noise-starter-solenoid/498169/1 "2009-05-30T16:08:16Z")
Question in title. ---
**Author:** ![Fantome](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/f/e9c0ed/32.png) [@Fantome](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Fantome)\ **Post date:** [May 30, 2009, 4:16pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/turn-the-key-and-i-get-a-tic-tic-tic-noise-starter-solenoid/498169/2 "2009-05-30T16:16:37Z")
The noise is the solenoid, but the cause of the engine not turning over is usually a dead battery. If the battery is okay, then it may be the starter solenoid or the starter motor itself. ---
**Author:** ![dropzone](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/dropzone/32/7515_2.png) [@dropzone](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/dropzone)\ **Post date:** [May 30, 2009, 4:21pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/turn-the-key-and-i-get-a-tic-tic-tic-noise-starter-solenoid/498169/3 "2009-05-30T16:21:34Z")
I’ll give it a shot. The power windows work so I figured there was enough juice to start it, but I guess not. Thanks! ---
**Author:** ![jasonh300](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/46a35a/32.png) [@jasonh300](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/jasonh300)\ **Post date:** [May 30, 2009, 4:29pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/turn-the-key-and-i-get-a-tic-tic-tic-noise-starter-solenoid/498169/4 "2009-05-30T16:29:32Z")
The battery can power things like the interior lights, power windows, but now have enough juice to turn the starter. Check the battery terminal connections for corrosion. Or they might just be loose. Try cleaning the terminals and tighten them up and see if thing start working again. ---
**Author:** ![Snnipe\_70E](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/b5a626/32.png) [@Snnipe\_70E](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Snnipe_70E)\ **Post date:** [May 30, 2009, 5:09pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/turn-the-key-and-i-get-a-tic-tic-tic-noise-starter-solenoid/498169/5 "2009-05-30T17:09:05Z")
Turn on you head lights have someone watch the lights as you try to start the car. If they dimm or go out then battery. ---
**Author:** ![Fantome](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/f/e9c0ed/32.png) [@Fantome](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Fantome)\ **Post date:** [May 30, 2009, 5:55pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/turn-the-key-and-i-get-a-tic-tic-tic-noise-starter-solenoid/498169/6 "2009-05-30T17:55:08Z")
> [@Snnipe\_70E](#): > > Turn on you head lights have someone watch the lights as you try to start the car. If they dimm or go out then battery. He’s not hearing his starter motor cranking at all, so this test isn’t going to be useful. Also, it’s not unusual for headlights to dim when cranking an engine with a good battery, so this is not a test that’s going to tell us much. ---
**Author:** ![Gary\_T](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/3ec8ea/32.png) [@Gary\_T](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Gary_T)\ **Post date:** [May 30, 2009, 6:12pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/turn-the-key-and-i-get-a-tic-tic-tic-noise-starter-solenoid/498169/7 "2009-05-30T18:12:40Z")
> [@Snnipe\_70E](#): > > Turn on you head lights have someone watch the lights as you try to start the car. If they dimm or go out then battery. Or poor battery cable connections. Or faulty starter drawing too much current. Not a conclusive test at all. ---
**Author:** ![Bumbazine](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/bumbazine/32/362_2.png) [@Bumbazine](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Bumbazine)\ **Post date:** [May 30, 2009, 7:48pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/turn-the-key-and-i-get-a-tic-tic-tic-noise-starter-solenoid/498169/8 "2009-05-30T19:48:34Z")
Just had this happen to the wife’s Suburban. Had the guys at Auto Zone put their ‘tester’ on it. They said the battery was crap. Replaced the battery. It started fine for 2 days, then, not so much. Took it to an actual mechanic. He replaced the alternator. Works fine now. Alternator wasn’t recharging the battery properly. So, your alternator is another possibility. ---
**Author:** ![Snnipe\_70E](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/b5a626/32.png) [@Snnipe\_70E](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Snnipe_70E)\ **Post date:** [May 30, 2009, 8:20pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/turn-the-key-and-i-get-a-tic-tic-tic-noise-starter-solenoid/498169/9 "2009-05-30T20:20:45Z")
> [@Fantome](#): > > He’s not hearing his starter motor cranking at all, so this test isn’t going to be useful. Also, it’s not unusual for headlights to dim when cranking an engine with a good battery, so this is not a test that’s going to tell us much. If the battery is at a low enough charge that the starter does not turn over then attempting to start the solenoid will drag the voltage down to cause the light to dimm drastically or go out so this is a first test and if you know what you are doing and the battery is low will tell you a lot. If the lights do not dimm drastically or go out then it is time to get out the meters and start checking. ---
**Author:** ![Snnipe\_70E](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/b5a626/32.png) [@Snnipe\_70E](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Snnipe_70E)\ **Post date:** [May 30, 2009, 8:23pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/turn-the-key-and-i-get-a-tic-tic-tic-noise-starter-solenoid/498169/10 "2009-05-30T20:23:53Z")
> [@Gary\_T](#): > > Or poor battery cable connections. Or faulty starter drawing too much current. Not a conclusive test at all. Bad battery cable goes with battery. Usually a faulty starter drawing too much current the solenoid does not click, pressure keeps the bendex ingaged. ---
**Author:** ![Snnipe\_70E](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/b5a626/32.png) [@Snnipe\_70E](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Snnipe_70E)\ **Post date:** [May 30, 2009, 8:27pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/turn-the-key-and-i-get-a-tic-tic-tic-noise-starter-solenoid/498169/11 "2009-05-30T20:27:27Z")
> [@Bumbazine](#): > > Just had this happen to the wife’s Suburban. > Had the guys at Auto Zone put their ‘tester’ on it. They said the battery was crap. > Replaced the battery. It started fine for 2 days, then, not so much. > Took it to an actual mechanic. He replaced the alternator. > Works fine now. > Alternator wasn’t recharging the battery properly. > > So, your alternator is another possibility. I have heard of this happening to others. A low battery does not mean the battery is bad. It means battery not being charged, not taking charge, not holding charge, charge being depleated, or not connected properly. These are easy to check out with a VOM. ---
**Author:** ![Fantome](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/f/e9c0ed/32.png) [@Fantome](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Fantome)\ **Post date:** [May 30, 2009, 9:35pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/turn-the-key-and-i-get-a-tic-tic-tic-noise-starter-solenoid/498169/12 "2009-05-30T21:35:19Z")
> [@Snnipe\_70E](#): > > If the battery is at a low enough charge that the starter does not turn over then attempting to start the solenoid will drag the voltage down to cause the light to dimm drastically or go out so this is a first test Again, the lights can dim regardless of battery condition > [@](#): > > and if you know what you are doing Oh. Of course. 😃 > [@](#): > > If the lights do not dimm drastically or go out then it is time to get out the meters and start checking. Checking the battery is the place to start regardless of whether or not the lights dim. > [@](#): > > Usually a faulty starter drawing too much current the solenoid does not click, pressure keeps the bendex ingaged. That doesn’t sound right to me. I believe a faulty starter can draw too much current while the solenoid continues to operate normally. Maybe **Gary T** can confirm. ---
**Author:** ![Early\_Out](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/e/6f9a4e/32.png) [@Early\_Out](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Early_Out)\ **Post date:** [May 30, 2009, 9:58pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/turn-the-key-and-i-get-a-tic-tic-tic-noise-starter-solenoid/498169/13 "2009-05-30T21:58:59Z")
No one has suggested the other obvious explanation for the “tic-tic-tic” sound. Please see [Lefty Rosenthal](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frank_Rosenthal). Is that an '81 El Dorado you got there? ---
**Author:** ![Rick](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/9f8e36/32.png) [@Rick](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Rick)\ **Post date:** [May 30, 2009, 10:01pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/turn-the-key-and-i-get-a-tic-tic-tic-noise-starter-solenoid/498169/14 "2009-05-30T22:01:51Z")
> [@Snnipe\_70E](#): > > I have heard of this happening to others. A low battery does not mean the battery is bad. It means battery not being charged, not taking charge, not holding charge, charge being depleated, or not connected properly. These are easy to check out with a VOM. Actually the testers that are in use today can accurately test a battery that won’t even light a headlight. In this case the battery and the alternator were both bad. (One of them failed and took the other one down with it) The problem most likely was not that they were sold a battery they didn’t need, it was that the alternator output was not checked once the new battery was installed. ---
**Author:** ![dropzone](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/dropzone/32/7515_2.png) [@dropzone](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/dropzone)\ **Post date:** [May 31, 2009, 12:06am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/turn-the-key-and-i-get-a-tic-tic-tic-noise-starter-solenoid/498169/15 "2009-05-31T00:06:01Z")
Battery was bad. We’ll see about the alternator. Thanks! ---
**Author:** ![Snnipe\_70E](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/b5a626/32.png) [@Snnipe\_70E](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Snnipe_70E)\ **Post date:** [May 31, 2009, 1:23am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/turn-the-key-and-i-get-a-tic-tic-tic-noise-starter-solenoid/498169/16 "2009-05-31T01:23:04Z")
> [@Fantome](#): > > Again, the lights can dim regardless of battery condition T\*\* can confirm. Good battery will drop from 13 to maybe as low as 11 vdc, little light dimm. Bad battery as low 0 volts, weak battery maybe from 11 to 8 volts. Both cases are dimming lights but there is a difference. ---
**Author:** ![Snnipe\_70E](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/b5a626/32.png) [@Snnipe\_70E](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Snnipe_70E)\ **Post date:** [May 31, 2009, 1:29am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/turn-the-key-and-i-get-a-tic-tic-tic-noise-starter-solenoid/498169/17 "2009-05-31T01:29:16Z")
> [@Fantome](#): > > Again > > Checking the battery is the place to start regardless of whether or not the lights dim. Trouble shooting 101 start with the easy steps first, then dig out all the tools and meters. > > That doesn’t sound right to me. I believe a faulty starter can draw too much current while the solenoid continues to operate normally. > > Sometimes yes, but if the over current is extreamly high there will be a voltage drop, if it is high enough the solenoid will chatter. > > Maybe **Gary T** can confirm. hhh