# "Use only alkaline batteries" **URL:** \ **Category:** Factual Questions\ **Created:** [January 9, 2008, 5:52pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/use-only-alkaline-batteries/432879 "2008-01-09T17:52:18Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 20\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![Key\_Lime\_Guy](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/k/48db29/32.png) [@Key\_Lime\_Guy](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Key_Lime_Guy)\ **Post date:** [January 9, 2008, 5:52pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/use-only-alkaline-batteries/432879/1 "2008-01-09T17:52:18Z")
The remote control devices for the Wii operate on AA batteries - and they go quickly! The manual says “Use only alkaline batteries. Do not use lithium ion, nicad, nimh, carbon zinc, or any other non-alkaline batteries.” I know nothing about electronics/physics - current is current, no? Is this a real & serious warning to be followed, or is it safe to ignore it? I’d like to use rechargeable NiMH batteries like these: [Link](http://www.target.com/gp/detail.html/601-6104100-8930552?ASIN=B000UL5GFI&AFID=Froogle&LNM=B000UL5GFI%7CDuracell_AA_NiMH_Rechargeable_Blister_Pack_DC1500B4&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=B000UL5GFI&ref=tgt_adv_XSG10001) Thanks in advance. ---
**Author:** ![gazpacho](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/6f9a4e/32.png) [@gazpacho](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/gazpacho)\ **Post date:** [January 9, 2008, 5:55pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/use-only-alkaline-batteries/432879/2 "2008-01-09T17:55:17Z")
Current is current. However, Alkaline batteries have a higher voltage output than NiMH batteries you have shown. Alkaline batteries are 1.5V those are 1.2V they are different. I will add I use those exact batteries in my Wii controlons and they are working fine. ---
**Author:** ![beowulff](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/beowulff/32/542_2.png) [@beowulff](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/beowulff)\ **Post date:** [January 9, 2008, 6:54pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/use-only-alkaline-batteries/432879/3 "2008-01-09T18:54:35Z")
Remember, NiMH batteries have lousy shelf-life. You better plan on having a set of batteries on charge and ready to go. ---
**Author:** ![crowmanyclouds](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/crowmanyclouds/32/19884_2.png) [@crowmanyclouds](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/crowmanyclouds)\ **Post date:** [January 9, 2008, 7:05pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/use-only-alkaline-batteries/432879/4 "2008-01-09T19:05:05Z")
There are “[new](http://www.duracell.com/precharged/)” NiMHs, that come precharged and claim a 1 year shelf life with only 25% charge loss. CMC +fnord! ---
**Author:** ![CalMeacham](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/calmeacham/32/35_2.png) [@CalMeacham](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/CalMeacham)\ **Post date:** [January 9, 2008, 7:41pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/use-only-alkaline-batteries/432879/5 "2008-01-09T19:41:02Z")
> [@](#): > > Current is current. However, Alkaline batteries have a higher voltage output than NiMH batteries you have shown. Alkaline batteries are 1.5V those are 1.2V they are different. ??? All those batteries – AA, AAA, C, and D have 1.5 volts output, whether they’re alkaline, NiCad, Carbon-zinc , or anything else. They’re standardized. I KNOW my old carbon-zinc batteries put out 1.5 volts. ---
**Author:** ![Key\_Lime\_Guy](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/k/48db29/32.png) [@Key\_Lime\_Guy](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Key_Lime_Guy)\ **Post date:** [January 9, 2008, 7:48pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/use-only-alkaline-batteries/432879/6 "2008-01-09T19:48:50Z")
[QUOTE=CalMeacham] ??? All those batteries – AA, AAA, C, and D have 1.5 volts output, whether they’re alkaline, NiCad, Carbon-zinc , or anything else. They’re standardized. I KNOW my old carbon-zinc batteries put out 1.5 volts. [/QUOTE] The NiMH batteries in my OP are 1.2V. But does it matter? ---
**Author:** ![gazpacho](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/6f9a4e/32.png) [@gazpacho](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/gazpacho)\ **Post date:** [January 9, 2008, 7:49pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/use-only-alkaline-batteries/432879/7 "2008-01-09T19:49:08Z")
[QUOTE=CalMeacham] ??? All those batteries – AA, AAA, C, and D have 1.5 volts output, whether they’re alkaline, NiCad, Carbon-zinc , or anything else. They’re standardized. I KNOW my old carbon-zinc batteries put out 1.5 volts. [/QUOTE] From the link provided for the batteries they are labeled as outputting 1.2V. Check. Perhaps the link does not work well because it is to long I know I had to cut and paste to follow the link. [LINK](http://www.target.com/gp/detail.html/601-6104100-8930552?ASIN=B000UL5GFI&AFID=Froogle&LNM=B000UL5GFI%7CDuracell_AA_NiMH_Rechargeable_Blister_Pack_DC1500B4&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=B000UL5GFI&ref=tgt_adv_XSG10001) > [@](#): > > • Rechargeable Battery Pack > • Voltage: 1.2 V > • Features: High Capacity > • 2650 mAh, High-Energy Density Lithium Ion Technology, NiMH Technology ---
**Author:** ![muldoonthief](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/muldoonthief/32/3188_2.png) [@muldoonthief](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/muldoonthief)\ **Post date:** [January 9, 2008, 7:50pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/use-only-alkaline-batteries/432879/8 "2008-01-09T19:50:25Z")
[QUOTE=CalMeacham] ??? All those batteries – AA, AAA, C, and D have 1.5 volts output, whether they’re alkaline, NiCad, Carbon-zinc , or anything else. They’re standardized. I KNOW my old carbon-zinc batteries put out 1.5 volts. [/QUOTE] Actually, NiCad and NiMH put out a nominal 1.2 volts. Since alkalines & carbon zincs have a gradual voltage drop as they deplete, most equipment runs OK at 1.2V. Check out the data sheets from the [duracell website](http://www.duracell.com/oem/productdata/default.asp). As the batteries are used, the voltage drops. ---
**Author:** ![tanstaafl](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/ba8739/32.png) [@tanstaafl](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/tanstaafl)\ **Post date:** [January 9, 2008, 7:51pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/use-only-alkaline-batteries/432879/9 "2008-01-09T19:51:07Z")
NiMH rechargables (and maybe other rechargables) are only rated at 1.2 V. (I’m looking at one now.) Also, keep in mind that voltage and current are two different things. While all of the batteries may produce the same voltage they may not all be able to produce the same current and so may not all be able to deliver the same power. ---
**Author:** ![Projammer](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/projammer/32/559_2.png) [@Projammer](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Projammer)\ **Post date:** [January 9, 2008, 7:52pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/use-only-alkaline-batteries/432879/10 "2008-01-09T19:52:46Z")
IIRC, alkaline batteries maintain a steady and stable voltage output until they’re almost completely discharged. Most others have a steady voltage drop until until they’re dead. This is easily noticable in incandescent flashlights as the light gets dimmer and more yellow over time. ---
**Author:** ![muldoonthief](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/muldoonthief/32/3188_2.png) [@muldoonthief](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/muldoonthief)\ **Post date:** [January 9, 2008, 7:55pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/use-only-alkaline-batteries/432879/11 "2008-01-09T19:55:18Z")
[QUOTE=Projammer] IIRC, alkaline batteries maintain a steady and stable voltage output until they’re almost completely discharged. Most others have a steady voltage drop until until they’re dead. This is easily noticable in incandescent flashlights as the light gets dimmer and more yellow over time. [/QUOTE] Nope. Check out the duracell link above. Battery voltage drops as the battery is used. It’s rechargeables that generally retain the same voltage until they’re nearly discharged. Which sucks when you’re scuba diving at night, and go from a fully bright flashlight to following the other guy’s light stick in a 4 minute time frame. ---
**Author:** ![Q.E.D](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/q/51bf81/32.png) [@Q.E.D](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Q.E.D)\ **Post date:** [January 9, 2008, 8:00pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/use-only-alkaline-batteries/432879/12 "2008-01-09T20:00:20Z")
[QUOTE=CalMeacham] All those batteries – AA, AAA, C, and D have 1.5 volts output, whether they’re alkaline, NiCad, Carbon-zinc , or anything else. They’re standardized. I KNOW my old carbon-zinc batteries put out 1.5 volts. [/QUOTE] Terminal voltage depends on chemistry. Carbon-zincs are 1.58 V, alkalines are 1.52 V, NiCd’s are 1.20 V, NiMH is 1.25 V and lead acid is 2.1 V per cell, give or take. ---
**Author:** ![Projammer](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/projammer/32/559_2.png) [@Projammer](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Projammer)\ **Post date:** [January 9, 2008, 8:59pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/use-only-alkaline-batteries/432879/13 "2008-01-09T20:59:36Z")
[QUOTE=muldoonthief] Nope. Check out the duracell link above. Battery voltage drops as the battery is used. It’s rechargeables that generally retain the same voltage until they’re nearly discharged. Which sucks when you’re scuba diving at night, and go from a fully bright flashlight to following the other guy’s light stick in a 4 minute time frame. [/QUOTE] Oh well, that’s what I get for trying to access a 20 year old memory. Thanks for the update! ---
**Author:** ![Kyrie\_Eleison](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/kyrie_eleison/32/7682_2.png) [@Kyrie\_Eleison](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Kyrie_Eleison)\ **Post date:** [January 9, 2008, 9:02pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/use-only-alkaline-batteries/432879/14 "2008-01-09T21:02:36Z")
Yeah, current is current. I speculate that the reason for Nintendo’s warning is two-fold: First, the Wii has a battery-life reporting capability. I would be willing to bet that their method of estimating remaining battery life is based on an estimated curve of voltage drop for alkaline batteries. So they tell you to use alkaline so that it will give correct results. Second, with the exception of some of the new NiMH batteries, such as those **crowmanyclouds** linked, rechargables tend to lose their charge pretty quickly when sitting idle. I imagine Nintendo may have wanted to spare you the annoyance of finding your batteries dead or near dead after periods of not playing. I’m currently using [Sanyo’s Eneloop](http://www.eneloop.info/) batteries for nearly all battery applications, including my Wii, and I’m quite happy with their performance. Sanyo claims a 15% annual self-discharge rate for these batteries, and data from independent reviewers seem to corroborate that claim. ---
**Author:** ![WarmNPrickly](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/w/d78d45/32.png) [@WarmNPrickly](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/WarmNPrickly)\ **Post date:** [January 9, 2008, 9:10pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/use-only-alkaline-batteries/432879/15 "2008-01-09T21:10:45Z")
I wonder about the current limitations on the different batteries. My nominal physics tells me that V=IR so if you connected the terminals with a superconductor your current should be really high, but there has to be a limit to this. I think at some point an internal battery resistance of some kind has to develop. One reason they might recommend against metal hydride and lithium batteries is the tendency to fling these controllers around the room. If those batteries break open, they could be a serious fire hazard. ---
**Author:** ![UncleRojelio](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/unclerojelio/32/3160_2.png) [@UncleRojelio](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/UncleRojelio)\ **Post date:** [January 9, 2008, 9:25pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/use-only-alkaline-batteries/432879/16 "2008-01-09T21:25:14Z")
I’ve been using these [Powerex](http://www.thomas-distributing.com/maha_2700_rechargeable_batteries.php) ones for the kid’s Wii ever since we got it. Seems to work fine. I’ve got a couple dozen on them in use all over my house and haven’t had any problems with them. ---
**Author:** ![Napier](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/n/ce73a5/32.png) [@Napier](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Napier)\ **Post date:** [January 9, 2008, 9:34pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/use-only-alkaline-batteries/432879/17 "2008-01-09T21:34:04Z")
Electrically, a battery looks like a perfect voltage source connected through a resistor. The voltage of the perfect voltage source depends on the cell chemistry (and on how many cells are in series, if it’s a true “battery”, a true “set of connected cells”, like the 9 V batteries are). This voltage doesn’t change over the life of the battery. But, as Christopher guesses, there is the equivalent of a resistor in there too. What happens as a battery runs down looks the same as the value off that resistor getting higher and higher until you can’t get much current out. When that happens, the system acts dead. ---
**Author:** ![gazpacho](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/6f9a4e/32.png) [@gazpacho](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/gazpacho)\ **Post date:** [January 9, 2008, 9:58pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/use-only-alkaline-batteries/432879/18 "2008-01-09T21:58:18Z")
[QUOTE=Napier] Electrically, a battery looks like a perfect voltage source connected through a resistor. The voltage of the perfect voltage source depends on the cell chemistry (and on how many cells are in series, if it’s a true “battery”, a true “set of connected cells”, like the 9 V batteries are). This voltage doesn’t change over the life of the battery. But, as Christopher guesses, there is the equivalent of a resistor in there too. What happens as a battery runs down looks the same as the value off that resistor getting higher and higher until you can’t get much current out. When that happens, the system acts dead. [/QUOTE] Perfect voltage source and a series resistor is a pretty simple model of a battery. Higher internal resistance is not all that happens. The voltage as measured with a high impedance meter shows the voltage getting low as the battery is drained. This voltage lowering cannot be due to internal resistance if there is very low current draw. > [@](#): > > The graph below shows typical discharge discharge curves for cells using a range of cell chemistries when discharged at 0.2C rate. Note that each cell chemistry has its own characteristic nominal voltage and discharge curve. Some chemistries such as Lithium Ion have a fairly flat discharge curve while others such as Lead acid have a pronounced slope. [http://www.mpoweruk.com/performance.htm](http://www.mpoweruk.com/performance.htm) ---
**Author:** ![Malacandra](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/45deac/32.png) [@Malacandra](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Malacandra)\ **Post date:** [January 9, 2008, 11:12pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/use-only-alkaline-batteries/432879/19 "2008-01-09T23:12:14Z")
Can’t believe no-one’s mentioned it yet, but NiCads and NiMHs are rated at only 1.2V, not 1.5V. That said, they will whack out a far larger current than zinc-carbons - their internal resistance is way lower. If you try to draw a lot of current out of zinc-carbons, you’ll find they’re unable to sustain that nominal 1.5V. ---
**Author:** ![Bryan\_Ekers](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/bryan_ekers/32/183_2.png) [@Bryan\_Ekers](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Bryan_Ekers)\ **Post date:** [January 9, 2008, 11:24pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/use-only-alkaline-batteries/432879/20 "2008-01-09T23:24:40Z")
[QUOTE=Projammer] Oh well, that’s what I get for trying to access a 20 year old memory. [/QUOTE] The SDMB has that effect. [sub](get it?)[/sub] [Next page](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/use-only-alkaline-batteries/432879.md?page=2)