Finally, we get to Ithaca, the largest (but not that large with about 30,000 people) city in the Finger Lakes region and has the most options for sightseeing/tourism. Ithaca is the one town in the Finger Lakes that takes more than a day to explore.
A two-college town, with Cornell overlooking the city from atop East Hill and Ithaca College overlooking the city from South Hill, Ithaca is probably the one place in the Finger Lakes that is LESS crowded in the summer. Downtown parking is certainly easier in the summer.
Downtown Ithaca is below the colleges and runs down to the lake. Ithaca has everything you would expect a major college town to have as far as restaurants, shops (especially used bookstores), music venues, theater, and so on. It also has the only arthouse cinema for a long way around.
Ithaca is Gorges is the official tourism motto, and very apt. Ther area is full of scenic waterfalls and gorges. The three big falls are the the State Parks: Buttermilk Falls State Park, Robert Treman State Park, and Taughhannock Falls State Park. Lots of hiking and stair climibing, but amazing scenery. Also, bring your swim trunks because all three parks have swimming areas near the base of the falls. There a several other falls and gorges around town, such as Ithaca Falls, Cascadilla Gorge, Triphammer Falls, and Wells Falls/Six-Mile Creek. There are a couple of nice lakefront parks as well, but I don’t think there’s swimming there.
Ithaca has a breadth of restaurants that can put larger cities to shame, and is certainly better than anyone towns I mentioned above. Everything from Ethiopian to Tibetan is available. As mentioned above, Purity Ice Cream is worth the stop, as is Ithaca Bakery. My go-to restaurants when passing through are the Moosewood Restaurant, a vegetable-forward farm-to-table influential (14 cookbooks since opening in ’74) restaurant, and Maxie’s Supper Club and Oyster Bar, a seafood/New Orleans place. Of course, I haven’t eaten in a fraction of the restaurants there.
Getting out of town will take you to a lot a wineries, but Six Mile Creek is the only winery (and distillery) in Ithaca. Like everywhere else, the Finger Lakes have a ton of craft breweries, but Ithaca Beer Co. has been around longer than most of them and has a large operation with a taproom/kitchen and beer garden.