Keeping one hand in your pocket and taking off all jewelry are both good ideas, but neither one of them is a full degree of safety. Even if you did a perfect job of removing all jewelry and keeping one hand in your pocket, you still wouldn’t be fully-protected. By contrast, turning off the power to the circuit is a full degree of safety, because if you did that perfectly, then you would be fully protected.
Modern auto-ranging DMMs are a lot better now. I haven’t had that problem with my cheapo Extech meter, and I’m sure the pros use better quality ones than that, like Flukes.
On occasion I’ve found the induced voltage useful in troubleshooting. That induced voltage is the same on both sides of the wire. Its very helpful in finding the other side of unlabeled wires. As well as identify wires that might be interconnected via some control device somewhere.
This is the best answer. I’ve also found that a sturdy pair of clean dry leather work gloves, like welding gloves, does a decent job of blocking 110V. Protects from slicing your hands on any heating fin edges and screws inside the heater also.
If you were perfect in not grounding yourself, then that also is perfect protection … no circuit, no electrocution … I’ve an occasion to (illegally) replace a service entrance … without the ground connection I was able to touch any single one of the hot lugs without ill effect … but it’s still a VERY bad idea … I was young a even stoopider than I am today …
Bolding mine.
Yes, welding gloves NORMALLY would provide *some *protection from 110VAC, however, it is very difficult for a pro, someone trained and experienced in “gloving” hot wires, to accomplish what you suggest… Much less an amateur. The physical difficulties encountered in gloving hot wires, are beyond a novices ability’s, and require more than welder’s gloves. I encourage garage electricians to ensure that the circuit in question is dead…Positively.
If one lacks the technical ability to determine if a circuit is actually dead, one has no business tinkering with said circuit… Irrespective of the goofy notions put forth in this forum.
If one doesn’t understand the complexities of “perfect”? as put forth in this forum:confused:, don’t touch those wires!
Any reason you can’t turn the heater on, then flip the breakers till it goes off?
The reason is, you don’t know for certain if the breaker killed the power, or, perhaps it was the heater thermostat.
If the breaker is responsible, you might be OK… If it was the thermostat, you might end up dead.
Seek professional help.
One can hear the thermostat click on-and-off … twist it all the way on …
One thing I like to do with these wall mounted heaters is use a blower to blow out the dust and pet hair … seems to work better than using a vacuum … partly because you can keep a bit of distance away from anything that bites … kinda sorta that part about treating dead circuits like they’re alive …
Most baseboard heat operates @ 240 VAC. Most baseboard heater thermostats switch only one “leg” @ 120 VAC. This means the heater element is always energized to 120VAC potential, pending completion of the circuit (by the thermostat) to achieve 240V through the heater element. One does not want to complete 1/2 of that potential to ground while ignorantly fumbling around… **through their body to ground.
**
Relying on an audible click of the thermostat to guarantee personal safety in this case, is a sure fire way to light yourself up, and is piss poor advice to give.
Again, Seek PROFESSIONAL help, not amateur SDMB opinion if you are not certain how to utilize electrical analyzers.