Ok CA or cranking amps is a totally bogus number made up by a marketing department somewhere to make their battery sound awesome. 790 is the number you want.
A 960 CCA would be a monster battery for a car. 790 is still a fairly large battery.
It sounds like she may have tested it correctly. I repeat may. Typically a modern capacitive tester will during a test (depending on the interim result) ask the temp of the battery, or ask if the battery is above 32F. If she answered it was below 32 when in fact the battery was above 32 it’s going to screw up the test result. Just how I’m not sure. I do know on a warm summer day when the battery is good and warm if you get the battery temp message you will probably wind up replacing the battery at the end of the day. If the tester asked for battery temp at the beginning of the test and the answer was 30 when the battery is 70 that is going to lower the pass threshold.
Do you know if the test gave a actual CCA reading off the battery? If so what was it?
Gary T I’m not seeing a problem with your post #35. I agree these test results don’t make a lot of sense.
He didn’t. See posts 22 and 24
No CCA reading. I double checked and it just said “passed”.
Here is where we are at
Your battery numbers don’t seem to make a lot of sense.
You can’t access the end of the positive cable to test it which means you can’t replace either it or the starter.
You haven’t done a voltage drop test on the negative cable so we have zero clue about its condition.
The bottom line is at this point your only two options are:
Throw a new battery at it and hope like hell that is the problem
Or
Take it to a shop and pay for a proper diagnosis and repair.
I don’t see a door number 3
Can this be a grounding cable problem tested by taking jumper cables and jumping negative side of battery to engine?
It could very well be a grounding cable, but since the OP can’t seem to be bothered to do a voltage drop test on that cable to verify this/rule this out (which I took time out of my New Year’s Eve to describe how to preform in detail in post #12) we have no fucking clue. I realize that performing this test will take at least 20 seconds of their valuable life. To the OP I guess I expected to much from you. I’m sorry I don’t know where the magic screw is that fixes your jeep.
At this point we have no data to recommend a course of repair.
Hell right now replacing the gas cap might fix it. (I doubt it but with no data that is as good a guess as any)
The OP should take it to someone that knows what they are doing and pay them to do the diagnosis as they are totally beyond their ability.
“A man’s has got to know his limitations”
-Harry Callahan
Due to various jumps and whatnot I have some more data.
Car will start on 12.4V but not anything lower. Just a click at 12.3V.
I ran a jumper cable from negative to the non-painted frame but it hasn’t made a difference.
Battery went from 12.6V to 12.1V in about an hour. I went back to the auto parts store and they replaced the battery. It was at 12.42V (tested) and it started the car. I went back in and signed the return paperwork and it went click - click - then started. Drove it home and so it should be fully charged and I’ll check in an hour or so.
Because of the location of the started and the fact it leaks fluid like a sieve (I believe where the lower radiator hose clamps to the radiator) we are going to take it it for them to check/clean the battery cables.
Sounds more like muffler bearings to me.
I’m assuming you meant “starter” here. They don’t, in fact, leak. If you’re leaking fluid from your radiator then you have another problem that needs attention. Where I live, whatever leaks on the street, ends up in the storm drains, and a short time later, in the ocean. They really frown on things like oil, coolant, dog poop, etc. in the streets for that reason. I don’t know where your storm drains take your runoff, but I’m pretty sure they frown on radiator fluid being added to the runoff. Fix your car or get a new one.
this further reinforces my belief you have an issue with the positive battery cable or starter
Wow. Instead of spending maybe 30 seconds testing it like I told you to, you spent probably 15 or 20 minutes running a redundant ground? Don’t believe doing things the easy way do you? BTW what size wire did you use? If it wasn’t damn near as big as the battery cable it won’t carry the current necessary, so you still might have a bad negative cable.
Two things here. First you might have a draw in the system. I could write how to check it, but based on you unwillingness/inability to follow simple instructions, I think I’ll pass. Secondly depending just how the wiring is done in your car, if the positive cable has resistance you battery may not get fully charged.
This is the best idea you have had in this thread.
One of the first things I checked when the first battery started dying.
0.12 mA
Yep.
if you’re not going to help, be quiet.
One of these is not like the other.
Also 0.12mA?
0.00012Amps? Twelve one hundred-thousandth of an amp? That’s what you wrote.
Why do I doubt this?
That doesn‘t sound right. 12 mA (.012 A) sounds plausible, maybe a tad on the low side for a modern car but not a problem. 120 mA (0.12 A) is also plausible but significantly more than desired, high enough to be a problem.
I still think he should turn it or burn it.
Then Rick would not be so cranky… ::::: flee ::::::
Yeah, I would run too!