If money were no object, I would not mind at all driving the Mercedes EQS. Sadly, money is a limitation.
Any idea what this will cost? It’s looks good, but the design didn’t blow me away. Like a cross between a Tesla S and a Toyota Camry.
What I’ve read is the price will start at around $100,000. Note the ridiculously wide dashboard screen.
I have found possibly the perfect EV for me except for one tiny issue (aside from the stupid name); I’ll let you guess what it is after you look at it.
I’ll take mine in Metallic Red.Theoretically.
I hope you don’t take this the wrong way, but my guesses as to what the deslbreaker is:
- Lousy range.
- Four doors
- Too expensive
- Too large
- All of the above
It’s distinctly Porsche-shaped, but I’ve never been a fan of their 4-door offerings.
The corresponding BMW is in the same ballpark for features, performance, 4-doorness, etc. Much better looking IMO. No clue about price. But neither of these cars are for people who care what these sorts of
lifestyle accessories toys cost.
Nope. I’m all about wagons and I like this one, I despise CUV/SUVs generally although I’ll give the I Pace a pass as I like it. It also looks better in the videos. But definitely too expensive.
The Beemer is definitely a nicer looking car. And 100 miles more range. I’ll take that over the Porsche any day. If it comes in around $50K as speculated, that car’s a winner.
I don’t know. That’s a butt-ugly front end, IMHO.
Point taken. Since its purely cosmetic, why did they need to make the beemer nostrils so large?
Are you referring to the i4 or iX3? Neither of which is a wagon and I contend the front of the i4 , or the 4 series generally is frickin’ hideous. The 2 Series OTOH, is gorgeous and so is the 5 Wagon but neither of those is an EV.
I was looking at the i4 when I said that. I haven’t really looked at the others.
Yeah, If I could get past that snout I’d say BMW is winning this particular race. The Taycan looks better in person in all fairness, I’ve seen a couple in Edmonton. Personally, the idea of 4 door Chargers, Porsches and Aston Martin SUVs is all kinds of stupid but it’s the world we’re in.
As I mentioned upthread the new Ioniq 5 has my interest, as it’s more like a hatchback and I can kinda convince myself it’s not just another &^%^%## CUV.
I don’t mind CUV looks. I think function is part of form, and CUVs have dome advantages in packaging.
I actually like the Mustang Mach-E, at least on paper. I’d never buy one in its first model year, though. I’ll wait until a year or two of field experience illuminates the flaws and Ford fixes them. By then there will be many good competitors, like the Ioniq.
Electrician came in. Inspection report noted some rag wire and I insisted on an assessment of how much of an issue that was. He thinks not much as it is just one small load circuit.) Advises sticking with 100 amp service (and quoted $5000 to upgrade to 200 with current copper prices) and will put a sub panel for the garage in the garage. Agreed with your assessment that it is fine with expected load sums. Still, detached garage needs trenching for the run … sigh.
(Other electrical issue is Romex used under the deck. It’s within code but he thinks should be inside a pipe.)
For a house built in 1908 could be worse.
Might be easier to replace the Romex with UF which is essentially Romex designed and certified for both direct burial and for continuous exposure to the elements including sun.
Good to hear that you can avoid the $5k upgrade. Breaking out a subpanel makes sense to me.
Seems like all construction materials are way up in cost. Hmm, does anyone make aluminum cable with the properties you need? The modern stuff is totally reliable as long as it’s installed properly. Normally I’d say it’s not really worth the trouble, but for a long run of low-gauge cable, at the current prices… might be worth a look.
I don’t like pedal operated regen because (IMO) it encourages the driver to drive farther at a higher speed when slowing down. I take my foot off the accelerator to coast down giving me more space in case the road is compromised.
Full control of regen with paddles would cover that issue.
That’s not how it works after a very minor adjustment period. Just start with the principle that touching the brake pedal is a “failure” (ignoring times when someone cuts you off, etc.). Once you do that, you quickly get used to easing off the accelerator to open up space, or slowing down early in anticipation of a stop light.
Coasting is just a completely arbitrary thing, unrelated to maximum efficiency or anything like that. There is just maintaining a constant speed, slowing down, or speeding up. And if you are slowing down, you shouldn’t be using the brake if you can possibly help it.
That’s how I drive. The regen works while coasting