Yep. The person with the app just hits “start” and you have a few minutes to start driving. I haven’t actually used it myself, though.
Presumably, though, in many cases the key will be inside the car. Or you can wait a few minutes until the phone charges in the case where the battery died.
Someone posted that EV hyper cars will soon out perform the ICE hyper cars. That ship has sailed. There are now EV cars that can leave cars like the Bugatti like they’re stuck in reverse.
I am not even close to an expert on expensive cars but there are lots of videos on youtube of Model Y Teslas annihilating “fast” sports cars on drag race tracks.
The 1/4 mile really favors your 0 to 40mph time. Not as much as your 40 to 140 time. Nor your ultimate top speed for sorta ordinary production cars.
My GF’s dual motor Model Y is insane at 0 to 40 and OK on 0 to 80. My own ICE is sorta the opposite. By ICE standards it’s quick off the light. Not by EV standards though. I’m left in the dust, period.
But once I’m rolling with full boost, the high speed drag of the Model Y kicks in and I pass like she’s parked. It takes 1/2+ mile and seriously extra-legal speeds to get there though.
A Nissan Murano family van with 6 kids, 2 dogs, all 15 cupholders filled, and all 3 TVs playing will utterly smoke any / every 1960s/1970s muscle car.
It’s sorta the same now w less-than-exotic ICE muscle cars. An EV Hatchback can destroy them all if it’s just acceleration up to near 80mph.
I’ve used it when for whatever reason the Bluetooth between my phone and car decided to be on a break from each other. I could pull the card out of my wallet, but usually the phone is already in my hand, because I’m futzing with the Bluetooth, so hitting unlock, and then start is easy.
Almost always the fix is to reboot the phone or the car, but the only way to know is to do one, and then the other, if necessary. Usually it is the phone that is having the problem. This is a very rare event.
Are you drag racing with your girlfriend??
With their driveway being the Bonneville Salt Flats, wouldn’t you?
which is - I may add - about 99.9% of all IRW usage cases
Agree as to acceleration.
But driving also includes braking & cornering. At which the sports cars & GTs, not to mention the exotics, the supercars, and up, decidedly destroy the EV grocery & kid-mobiles.
If we want driving to be all about utilitarian functionality and only utilitarian functionality, then EV econoboxes with barely 100 hp & 100 miles range will cover 95% of USAians 95% use cases. For European / Japan use, maybe even less HP & range would be sufficient in those denser environments.
Right now there’s a big industry serving a big audience for the non-utilitarian aspects of cars. May it ever be thus!
(Looks around at all of the 3/4-ton crew-cab pickups that have never carried a load in their beds) I dunno about ever but a long, long time, for sure.
No, I was saying carrying your phone with your backup card in the phone case it a bad idea if the phone is lost/stolen & that keeping your backup separate from you primary (phone) is a much smarter idea. The fact that Dr. Strangelove has a wallet might make him a geezer, but it makes him a smart geezer.
Gotcha. I expect that young’uns would be out of luck no matter what if they have a vehicle that can operate via phone and they lose the phone. Same with purchasing anything at that point.
Why do you need a backup anything? If my phone dies, I use the door code to get in, and enter the password on the center display, and then I’m in business.
Huh, didn’t realize Fords still had door codes. That takes me back.
Cool idea, but the Zoomers aren’t going to remember any code. At best, they’ll keep it on the notes app… on their phone.
I think that is called a backup.
Do you have a cite? A comparably designed EV will corner better than an ICE simply due to the lower CG (comparing GTs to family cars is outright specious). And, while an EV will usually weigh more, vehicle designers build the brakes to account for that.
Yeah, I mean you can check the Nürburgring lap times where ICE cars still dominate the top of the leaderboards.
Last fall, my oldest (21, in college, with some savings) decided she wanted to be done paying for repairs on her 2010 mercury milan hybrid (a hand-me-down from me) and (with a little loan from the “bank of dad”) picked up a 2014 Chevy Volt. Because I helped with the shopping, I got served a lot of ads on FB marketplace for EVs.
One of them was a 2022 Polestar 2 Dual-Motor “Long Range” (long range means about 250 miles, lol). Originally listed at 28k, it dropped to 24k so I went to take a look at it. It was nice. Private Seller, but I knew I cold use the KeySavvy service to get the used EV tax credit applied, which dropped the cost down to 20k. For a 2-year old car with 36k miles on it to replace my 10-year-old one. So I took the plunge. It’s a neat car. I should have read up on all of the little idiosyncracies, however, and it might have steered me away. It doesn’t have Android Auto (like, WTF?) … a recently released update adds it but my car has not received that update. And that update somehow removes the ETA on the built-in navigation on the dashboard…it’s like the software was written by folks who have never written software before (which if you know Volvo, who is the company Polestar originated from, you would understand).
But I am enjoying the power and keeping it topped up overnight from a basic 120V charger. It needs new tires and I am trying to decide between sticking with OEM Pilot Sport 4 All-Season or move to something more efficient. The Pilot sport All-season tires are beasts for traction, but they do come with a hit on efficiency. I like the idea of improving the range a little bit (5 - 10%) but giving up the performance goes agaisnt everything the “car guy” in me feels. Also, by some strange quirk, the Pilot Sport 4 A/S are one of the least expensive high-performance all-season tires I can get. 19 inch tires are not cheap, and I could easily spend $1500 on a new set.
why improve the efficiency, when (basically free) overnight charging resets the counter to 100% every night?
that seems more of an “emotional” problem than a practical one, you are trying to solve.
Just to be clear to all current and future electric vehicle owners, “topped up” means charging to 80% of capacity. It’s best for the longevity of the battery. It’s fine to go over occasionally, but don’t make it a habit.