I also feel like this question has gotten less interesting over the last 30 years as global cities have gotten “efficient” in their restaurant scene relative to the local income distribution of the population. The minimum bar has gone up a lot as cities have homogenized around a core set of global cuisine, done acceptably anywhere you go.
To the extent that most travellers notice a difference, it’s because they’re arbitraging their home earnings against local spending. They’ll rave about how great a city is because they’ll be eating every night at a restaurant that the average denizen would reserve for a monthly special treat.
I feel like the 90s/early 00s were the peak time when the above question would have been the most meaningful. Now, any city with an airport that sees more than 10M passengers a year, you can eat pretty well in without much effort.