Well I would have done a few other things first, but good luck.
Care to elaborate? I’m curious. You’re obviously more experienced than I am, but it seems to me that if he has a strong spark, fuel and air, that the engine should fire. Since he had the engine open it seems very possible that he did something to affect the timing, which would explain all the symptoms.
I’d really be interested in other possibilities that you can offer.
In auto repair it is often like real estate. The three most important things are location, location, and location.
Assuming the truck ran before you replaced the head gasket, and you did not disturb the cam chain when doing the head, why would it be out of time now?
IOW if the car ran before you took it apart, but does not run now, the most likely culprit is something you did, not something you did not touch. What are the odds of the cam chain taking a shit at the exact same time as the head gasket? Two chances. Slim and none. Slim left town this afternoon.
Off the top of my head I would check the following before I tore the front of the engine down:
[ul]
[li]Are all of the ignition wires set up correctly? On a 4 cylinder waste spark system it is very easy to get the engine 180 degrees out of time. On a distributor engine, it is easy to fuck up the wiring order (BTDT, got the t-shirt, key chain, snow globe etc) Ask me about how I got screwed on this.[/li][li]Are all the sensor connected correctly? For example a disconnected coolant temp sensor will cause the ECM to assume -40 and flood the engine.[/li][li]Are the valve adjusted correctly? If they are too tight, the engine might not have enough compression to start. There is a TSB on this from GM. I asked him to do a wet compression test. This would help determine if and where any faults are in the engine.[/li][li]Regardless of what he posted, IMHO 110 lbs is low, barely on the min of acceptable. This could be due to wear, or valves hanging open. Only more diagnostic tests will tell.[/li][li]Did he dry the plugs out? Wet plugs won’t fire.[/li][/ul]
It would not start when i replaced the head gasket, but that could be do to my failed crankshaft sensor and ignition control module, wet compression was the same as dry, I am curious about the valves being to tight as i had to remove the springs and rocker arms in order to replace the head gasket. I used a pneumatic wrench to re tighten them down is it possible that they are too tight? If so how should i correct the problem and how will i know if they are tight enough and not too tight?
My info shows a torque spec of 18 ft. lbs. for the rocker arm nuts, and does not mention any adjustment. That tells me that they are meant to be tightened down until they stop, and the valves can’t be too tight. The nuts may be tightened tighter than spec, but that shouldn’t affect valve operation.
This is different from some GM engines where the rocker nuts are used to adjust valve lash with the hydraulic lifters. On those engines, screwing the nuts down too far can cause a problem.
Alright so then i guess I’m back at checking the timing
I’d check to make sure the ignition isn’t 180° out of phase and also make sure the CTS isn’t causing an over rich condition first.
alright so how would i go about doing these things