Well, he went into New Orleans to witness something I don’t remember learning about, but was a big news story of the day - a school that was desegregated, with federal marshals and all, had a group of middle aged women outside the school every morning; they were called “the Cheerleaders.” They took turns shouting invective at the black girl who was escorted into school every morning, and then shouting even more obscene and vile stuff at a white man escorting his white son into the school. The media kept referring to the shouters as housewives, but Steinbeck noted that the leader of the group didn’t have a wedding band on.
He encountered a racist guy, who was nevertheless thoughtful, and gave a pretty articulate account of his belief that he didn’t mean any judgment by saying the races were different and should be separate, and acknowledged it could be an emotional position hard to give up when it’s been that way all your life (he was an old guy). He lived with a black couple who worked for him, and described the living situation as ‘3 pleasant things.’
Charley was a standard size dark gray poodle, and he said he heard the ‘joke’ “Oh! It’s a dog with you! I thought it was a nigger!” countless times, and specifically related 3 times it happened.
He gave a lift to one guy who just hated, mindlessly, the thought that black kids and white kids were going to school together. He praised the cheerleaders. Steinbeck asked why, and the guy couldn’t articulate anything beyond, “I won’t let my (future, imaginary) kids go to school with no niggers!” He had nothing behind it. Acknowledging that he was losing a valuable opportunity, Steinbeck nonetheless stopped the truck and made him get out, and heard “Nigger lover!” over and over as he pulled away, until he was out of earshot.
He gave a lift to a black man, and as soon as Steinbeck mentioned the New Orleans situation, the guy said he was close to home, and could he be dropped off here.
He gave a ride to a black (high school? college?) kid and talked with him about Martin Luther King, and the kid thought non-violent resistance wasn’t going to get the job done fast enough. The kid wanted to see black equality in *his *lifetime. Not just something for his kids or grandkids. Steinbeck talked about what Gandhi accomplished, and the kid pointed out that Gandhi died. Then the kid acknowledged that he didn’t know, maybe Steinbeck was right, but he was selfish.
Steinbeck related that a southern friend of his defended separate but equal with claims that the bus station toilets were just as nice, and the new schools they had just built for the colored (as stated) kids was nicer than the ones the white kids were at! Steinbeck joked that they could really show those negroes, and swap the toilets and schools, just to show them how good they had it. His friend called Steinbeck a troublemaker (but with a smile).
I don’t know how to summarize it better. A nice mix of points in a huge landscape. And in the moment.