My memory may be faulty but I think with that kind of motor you will see a sort of pulsating resistance if you turn the shaft slowly while monitoring the ohms reading.
Nothing.
The needle twitched a little when I was trying to get the probes to make contact, but other then that it stayed at infinity…that’s good right.
I don’t think I noticed anything when I spun the motor, but my digital meter just went on the fritz so I’m working with the analog one now.
It depends on the motor but I think you should see a low ohms value between those wires. Are there any ratings or numbers on the motor?
1.5 Watts 13VDC
You definitely shouldn’t get an infinite resistance between the wires. They feed the copper loops you can probably see when you look inside there. As the motor turns it develops a counter voltage to limit the current but at start-up the resistance will be fairly low. you could also set your meter to volts scale and spin the shaft. Most motors will produce a measurable voltage when spun.
Scratch that, just rechecked, getting 75 ohms, bumps up to about 90ish when I spin the motor by hand. No voltage change when I spin the motor though.
Ya know, I’m starting to wonder if the motor is good, and maybe the new board is bad. I think I might drop the old board back in.
That sounds better.
I’m out of ideas though, good luck with the board. I hope you find something there.
Nope, putting the old board in didn’t make a difference.
I’m more and more getting the feeling that this isn’t an issue or a bad board or a bad motor. Gotta be something else going on.
Well, I just put the new board in with the old motor and the circuit board started smoking as soon as I plugged it in. 
Is there an evap themostat involved?
There’s a thermostat in the fridge, freezer, ice box (and one for room temp), the freezer one is the only one I had easy access to, and it checked out fine. But, like I mentioned before, Test mode forces the fan to turn on and it still wasn’t spinning.
Test mode forces the fan on, but the power still runs through the thermostat, no? Have you tried powering the fan directly and bypassing the thermostat?
Hand-starting/spinning an electric motor usually means that the motor is bad in my limited experience. If you didn’t have a new motor I would guess that was the case. Is it possible to try a third motor? Is the new motor brand new or a refurb/scavenged part?
Bear in mind I am a hobbyist at best, just recently had a similar fridge issue (bad freezer evap fan) and had the time to mess with a bunch of potential solutions.
Hand spinning the fan won’t start it, in fact, it doesn’t even offer any resistance.
Also, both the motor and the temp sensor have their own wires that go back the the circuit board, but I know what you’re saying. In fridges that don’t have circuitry there is a temp sensor mounted to the evap, it’ll keep the fan off until the freon cools down the evap enough, this prevents the fridge from circulating warm air after a defrost cycle. I’m sure that still happens here, on the PCB, but I have no real way of bypassing it.
You haven’t happened to find a wiring diagram or schematic for your fridge have you?
The closest I have is a service manual.
http://136.166.4.200/contents/Fridge/LFX25960/LFX25960_Service_Manual.pdf
So here’s what happened.
I tried every combination of new/old motor/board I could think of. This was, of course after checking everything for shorts and finding nothing. The last thing I tried was the new board and the old motor, that’s when the board burned up. When the appliance guy came out, he said the only thing he could think of was that one of the new parts was faulty (and failed in exactly the same way as the old part), after verifying that I wouldn’t be charged if the new parts didn’t fix the problem I gave him the go ahead. He came back out, with another person and installed a new motor and newer board (different then the one I had)…same problem ER FF. So the three of us check everything we can think of and everything is testing just fine. In the end, what happened was that the wiring harness (the part you plug the motor in to) had a bent pin and the pin was moving out of the way when the motor was plugged in, but moved back into place when you pulled it out so it was hard to tell and that’s what was causing all the problems. It took the three of us about an hour to figure this out and even once she had came up with the theory it took her about 10 minutes to decide that’s what the problem was and fix it. So, my guess as to what happened was the that first motor (or board) actually did go bad, which is very common on this model, then I’m guessing when I put the new one in I bent one of the pins. Then with all the plugging in and unplugging I did over the new few days, one of the times I’m guessing that when the pin bent out of the way it may have shorted out. Probably touched one of the other pins or grounded onto something and burned out the board.
I sent the parts back and got my money back…all in all it ended up costing me $460, woulda been $215 if the pin wasn’t bent and $410 if I had just called them to begin with.
And obviously this explains all the screwy voltage readings I was getting.
Inter…m…t…nt problems are the hardest to diagnose. I assume that the connectors used on the frigid were “Molex” type? I hate those - they have very high insertion and removal force, so it’s easy to push a pin out and not notice.
Similar to molex but a bit different.
Here’s a picture
http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=b200a4c203i1267567&PartID=1267567