Thank You Greasy Jack for that info, Yes I stand corrected as my Car does have a timing chain and not a timing belt. I’m talking about my newer car which is a 2009 Honda CRV. My last car was a 2003 Hyundia Sonata which according to my owners manual called for a change after 60,000 miles because it was a timing belt. I did change it as I had two T-Belts go on me in the past. They were older and used cars. Believe me it’s a bad experience when you car just dies on the highway.
I’m sure it does. I can’t imagine any passenger car/truck where the belt itself is a $350 part. $50-100 is more the norm.
Note that with many engines, it may be wise to replace the water pump and/or the front engine oil seals at the same time. The timing belt has to be removed to access these parts, so it can save around 250-300 in labor to deal with them while the belt is being replaced, as opposed to replacing them separately later. A timing belt replacement combined with replacing these seals, the water pump, and the drive belt(s) can run in the 700-800 range for many vehicles, but that’s quite a bit more of a repair than just replacing the timing belt.
That is an installed price.
Thanks Gary T, Good Stuff to know!
And when a large amount of smoke starts spewing out of your 1987 Mazda 323 it’s time to junk it. 235,411 miles and 26.5 years.
I just replaced the waterpump (there was a thread about all that) and the tires a year ago. Plus some small stuff.
FtGKid2’s been driving it for a over two years. I was hoping that it’d make it until summer. Now he’ll have to get his own car. Says he’s looking for ~10 year old car. I think a 3-4 year old one is a better idea.
I’m (obviously) a big fan of drive it until some horrible happens. Even if it were to cost me $500+ a year to maintain, that’s nothing compared to new car buying every few years.
But it was starting to get a bit tricky with parts. Some things were no longer in stock in the usual local places. If this was a car I had to drive everyday, this would have been a worry. But I could order ahead for things I knew were going out or just wait a few days for unexpected stuff.
I think 20-25 years is pushing it with parts. But it helps if you were to have a really popular model (like a Corolla).
The Grey Ghost is gone. Sigh.
Well, “there is your problem”, You let the smoke out!
I agree with your outlook on car maintenance. However, I would let the boy buy a 10 year old car. This will give him the opportunity to figure out if a 10 year old car is too old, or if it will work out for him.
Everyone is different and what works for you may or may not work for him. The money he saves by buying an older car can be put to other (hopefully good) uses. Buying an older car will probably give him some idea as too the cost in time and money of maintenance for the older rig. This can be a good learning experience!
IHTH, 48.
PS, Sorry for your loss, The Grey Ghost will be missed.
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I thought that 100k was just starting, for an 04 Santa Fe. Am I hallucinating?
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I don’t think that Blue Books have any relationship to real life.
I’d say to put in the new engine. That way, you have an 04 Santa Fe with a new engine, for 2500.
This all of it! Especially #2. Note what you said about Carmax.
If you want or need the security of a rebuilt or new engine, then that is what I would recommend. I would find a new-to-me mechanic as well.
For me, unless the pistons are damaged, a new head, (or rebuilding your head) should put you down the road. No, the engine is not rebuilt, it is repaired. Unless the engine was smoking or had low oil pressure, the “lower end” will be just fine. It should go another 100K+ miles.
As far as the timing belt, it should be replaced on a good used engine, by your new mechanic if need be. The other options will come with a new belt. I am sure that you now know how often they need replaced.
There is something to be said for knowing the history of your car. Either of the above solutions will get you a good running car that you know the history of. If you opt to buy a new-to-you car, then you probably do not know its history. Of course, licensing and registration cost will be more for the new-to-you car.
IHTH, 48.
What the dealers around here use is the NADA guide. Never pay more than the retail quote, but getting a car for less than the retail listing is common. (We did it with both our Corollas.)
It helps a lot in negotiations to quote the NADA price.
NADA does–it’s a compilation of data composed of sale prices at dealerships, auctions and private parties, published by multiple regions throughout the US. It is very much a reflection of real life.
Kelley Blue Book is slightly less accurate than a broken clock.
Sampiro, am I understanding correctly that you paid $800 in labor to a mechanic for him to figure out that you need a new engine? That’s a huge WTF right there.
$872.37 to be precise. He replaced the timing belt, replaced the water pump, and then said the pistons/valves were too damaged to work, so he took out whatever he could and put it back on the shelf and the charged for the labor and parts he couldn’t refund. (The parts were much higher than at other places I checked, but he gave me some bull about not being able to use “outside parts” because of warranty.) He said he could not refund the timing belt, so I kept it and all the other parts I paid for when I had it towed to another mechanic. I think this may have pissed him a bit since he basically just put them all in the backseat instead of the hatch.
I also thought that it was standard for mechanics to charge X for a diagnostic fee and estimate ($80 in this case) BUT to then deduct that from the price of the actual work. These guys don’t do that; they charge for the diagnosis and estimate in addition to the work. They also said that it would cost between $4,500-$6,000 to put a new engine in the car, which seems a gross overestimate. So far the most expensive estimate BY FAR I have had was just over $4000, but that was for a remanufactured engine with an unlimited mileage three-year warranty and their estimate was for salvaged one.
Speaking of, said remanufactured engine with the three-year unlimited mileage warranty that covers labor, parts, and rental car, is more than twice the price of salvaged engines. All disclaimers in place about not holding anybody legally liable for their opinion or estimate, in your opinion is it worth the extra $1,400 or so? Related to this, is there anything I should look for or beware of when shopping for a salvaged engine? Is there a mileage I should consider too high?
A rebuilt engine with a 3 year, unlimited mileage warranty sounds like almost as good a deal as you get when you buy a new car. You can decide if buying one expensive engine is worth the peace of mind over maybe buying two in the same time frame.
Personally, I wouldn’t buy a salvage engine unless I planned on tearing it down and overhauling at least the head(s), replacing t-belt & water pump. I’d make the assumption it’s in the same condition as what you’ve got right now.