There are a million third World companies and individuals (Indians, Koreans (not really third World but quality-wise), and Chinese seem to dominate) offering bespoke or made to measure suits on the cheap. There’s a big market gap to fill because true bespoke suits cost in the thousands. Whereas they’ll offer to do it for in the high hundreds or so.
If you Google custom tailor suit review or the like you will find that a lot of people found the experience less than satisfactory. Common complaints include bad fabric, a bad measuring process (measuring only one leg and one arm), failure to have a follow-up fitting (mentioned in my earlier tailoring post), poor accessories (buttons falling off), and generally variable fit and finish quality.
I’ve met with some of these guys – they’ll generally tour the country for a few weeks. You meet them in a hotel room (or they will come to your office). Some of them I’ve walked away from because they had very bad online quality reviews. One was more or less an outright conman (he had a shill “surprisingly” show up midway to exclaim how great his suits were, make me six more!). The one time I did the deal with a Korean guy (he’s apparently the king of Itaewon tailors) it went okay. I’m wearing one of the shirts right now (oh, the deal was a suit, a sportcoat, and six shirts for $1100). Shirts may have been the best part, good fit and fabric. Suit was fine then I ripped the GD pants. Sportcoat had crappy buttons that fell off. I might use him again for shirts if he’d do them for $75 a pop or so.
Maybe it was my bad for choosing the wrong fabric. I always buy woolen suits when I can find them. I ordered a couple in what they said was their standard wool fabric. It was much too heavy and stiff. It was like iron plating compared to my other wool suits, which are soft. The one with a knee-length pleated skirt at least draped and moved well enough that I wore it a lot, though the color was a few shades off from what I’d been hoping for. The one with a narrow ankle-length skirt I have never worn, because it’s impossible to walk in it. Unless I undo the buttons way up in the back. It’s uncomfortable. Which is a shame and a waste, because these were sewn to my actual measurements.
I wish I knew where I could get a suit copied. I have a suit that’s on its last legs, but it’s my most flattering, forgiving suit. I only paid $75 for it (2 for $150 at Macy’s), but I’d pay a lot more than that to have 3 new ones exactly like it. I have coworkers that have expressed similar sentiments about their particular favorites.
Find a seamstress/tailor. You’d have to sacrifice the old suit (pause for hysterical sobbing), but a decent technician can take apart the old suit and use it for a pattern.
~VOW
I like contemporary cuts, and I think Theory is a good choice as it could easily be found in department stores like Saks, Nordstrom, or Bloomingdales. Best prices will probably be at Theory outlets. The wool pieces drape fairly well and stand up to abuse. There have been many days where I’d come home from work at like 4AM and just toss them aside cuz I couldn’t be bothered, and yet they don’t wrinkle at all.
I don’t think just anyone can do it, nor do it for a price under, say $1000. That’s what a local tailor quoted me, shaking his head. Basically no different than a suit completely custom made. In order for the labor cost to be something manageable, you’de have to find someone who specializes and can do it adeptly. I have not found such a place.
95% of the women at my business school wear Theory paired with sky high Louboutins, me included. It’s basically the sexiest legit business outfit you can buy.
At some point I am just going to Vietnam to get a frillion suits made though.
My sister and I just went shopping for a suit at the local outlets. Theory by far had the nicest-looking, most flattering suits (and also the most expensive ones). Banana Republic was the runner-up. Ann Taylor and Ann Taylor Loft are usually my go-toes.
FWIW, I went with a Banana Republic, which was quite sharp despite the fact that 90% of the people at the group interview were wearing the same suit. I didn’t get that job, but I did get a much better one. Alls well that ends well!