In a village located in the mountains of north east Haiti, 20 miles from the nearest town and the nearest paved road. There are traces of modernity - Motorcycles (dirt bikes) serve as taxis to take people 10 miles or so to the nearest cross roads where they can catch a bus to town, often 4-5 adults on one cycle. Cell phones are becoming more common, though the only electricity to charge them is from generators which are few and far between. People often walk an hour or more to charge their phone.
Mostly, though, people there live as rural people did in the US in the mid-1800’s. No running water, scraping a living from the soil (growing mostly fruit, sugar cane and corn), raising a few skinny, free range animals for milk, meat, and eggs. Houses are one room mud huts with a dirt floor, cooking is done outside in a fire pit. Washing - clothes, bodies and motorcycles - is done in the small river that flows through the village. It also serves as the drinking water source, digging wells is expensive often come up empty there. The nearest working well is at least 5 miles away.
The village layout is not what I had always imagined, the huts are spread out so that often you can not see the neighbor’s house. There is a gathering spot on the rutted dirt road where people trade fruit, corn and livestock. A couple of times a week an old truck stops to buy excess fruit, corn and sugar cane to take to the town market, pretty much the only source of currency. Since sugar cane is ubiquitous, rum distilling is popular but primitive - much like moonshining in the states. The nights are very dark, especially when it is cloudy. When it is clear there is a blanket of stars in the sky.
The people are some of the nicest, most hospitable that I have ever met. even though they have very little, one cannot walk through the forest without being offered mango, pineapple or sugar cane. Many of them have never been farther than a day or two walk from where they were born. Port-Au-Prince is less than 100 miles away (about 6 hours by bus because of the horrible roads) but it may as well be on another continent. Precious few villagers have ever been there. Shoes are rarely worn, the feet of the locals are thick with callouses. They routinely walk on thorny, rocky ground without ill effect. On the flip side, if they do get a wound on their foot there is a very high rate of infection.
TL/DR - no clean water, very little electricity, subsistence living, great people and astounding natural beauty. I can’t wait to go back. People and nature trump modern amenities for me.