jumper cables, air pump, fire extinguisher, flashlight, knife, water, oil, basic tools, wiper blades, spare bulbs, fuses, tire gauge, spare glasses, 12 volt USB charger, 110V USB charger, oversize market bags, micro-cloth for cleaning windows (they work great). Also carry spare keys in my wallet. I use to keep washer fluid in the car but the modern reservoirs are humongous. Oh, and radiator fluid. I have a real slow leak and need to top it off once in awhile.
I need to swap out the knife for one with a seat belt cutter built into the handle. For winter I add snow shovel and a blanket. I use to keep candles in there but I’m never really far from civilization. If I’m going out of town I throw a box of tools in.
I miss the 80’s when Ford had TFIC ignitions. I’d toss one of those in too. If they failed it was 5 minutes and back on the road.
I have jumper cables in all my cars. Always have. I wouldn’t think of owning a car and not. I have used them rarely-just like the car jack. But they are an essential part of driving a car.
Have jumper cables. Also have a blanket (‘inherited’ from a very nice lady that stopped to help when our last car was totaled 3 years ago), a big bottle of water, dog water bowl, and bungee cords.
When I bought a new car a few months ago, one of the first things that went in was a set of jumper cables. I also bought an actual spare tire as the last two flats I’ve had involved sidewall damage that no “mobility kit” could ever dream to fix.
Can’t remember the last time I needed a jump, but I’ve given several over the years.
How true is this?
I’ve been told the same thing–5 minutes after I used jumper cables on my brand new compact hatchback to start the pickup truck at work.
There’s been no damage that I can see. But was I just lucky?
Should I refuse to use jumper cables in the future? Does it make a difference if I’m the jumpee and not the jumper?
What is “improper” jumping?
Either you hook the cables with the 2 red ends on the red terminals, and the black ends on the negatives*, or you get a big, scary spark.
Oh , and you have to be careful not to let the two cars touch each other,so get the pasengers out of the back seat before one of them opens the door and bangs the other car.
Is there anything else I should know about improper jumping?
Is there anything about modern car electronics that requires more careful attention than back in the good ol’ days when, ya know, a man could actually fix his own car?
(or, yes, I know… any other metal part. But I always use the negative terminals on both batteries. It’s just more logical to me.
I have 'em & have used 'em both as the jumper & jumpee. They sit in the wheel well with the spare tire (remember when new cars had those?)
Anti-freeze won’t help much if you spring a leak as the replacement will leak out, too. A little known fact that was taught to (my dad) many years ago when he was stranded while trying to leave a hospital in a bad neighborhood…& it works - Black pepper will clog the hole & get you home/to the mechanic & keep that replacement anti-freeze in the car. Yes, proper repairs would then include a flush so it gets out of the system after not too long. I have a can in the other corner of the wheel well.
The reason you connect the last negative connection to the engine block is that the last connection is likely to spark, and you don’t want that happening near potentially leaking fluids of a bad battery. While it’s nice to remember “red to red, black to black” it’s slightly safer to follow the directions.
I got a jump from my BIL’s Prius last weekend and the battery is in the back not near any engine components. It’s fine as a source of a jump but I’m not sure if there’s any alternative to attaching the last negative cable to the battery itself on that car if it needs a jump.
Improper jumping could be reversing the cables, for example. That will damage any car, but it’s more likely to do severe damage to a modern car.
It seems a bit absurd, unless “modern” means a very small subset of very late model cars. Every vehicle I’ve had with a computer-controlled engine has had instructions on how to jump start it in the actual owner’s manual, including a 1987 Ford LTD, a 1995 Ford Ranger, a 2003 Mazda 6, a 2005 Dodge Dakota and a 2011 VW Passat.
All of which were jump started at one time or another with no ill effects whatsoever.
I’ve got jumper cables in the Expedition, but only because they’re part of a roadside emergency kit that’s standard with all new cars sold in Mexico. It also has warning triangles and some other things.
I’ve got nothing in the Fusion. Frankly, I’m not sure why it has a 12V battery, especially given the weight. I’m not an electrical engineer, but I’d imagine that an inverter-rectifier off the high-voltage system might weigh less and not need maintenance.
it’s there as a fall-back in case the HV battery is drawn down to minimum safe charge; the 12V battery has reserve capacity to keep the network up and make sure the electronics in charge of the HV system are active and ready once a charging source for the HV system is present. during normal driving the 12V battery is kept charged via a DC-DC converter between it and the HV system. at least in most cases (e.g. the Fusion Energi we have in my lab) there’s no alternator anymore.
oh and to answer OP I have a set of cables in my truck, but I’ve only ever used them to jump someone else.
