The times, they sure are changing.
According to the National Roads and Motorists’ Association (NRMA) article you listed:
*–An NRMA technician can revive a flat battery in a modern car by supplying power to the battery but only by following the official jumpstart procedure.
–“Your mate can’t jumpstart the car anymore – the NRMA has to do it for you.”
–Most definitely not ‘technology well beyond the grasp of the regular motorist and their vehicle.’ … Plus they’ll all usually have labels telling you the correct order & location for the leads (it’s not battery to battery for all 4 connections…).
–Follow the manufacturers instructions on jump starting the car.
Darrin: If you follow the manufacturer’s instructions, ensure you have the correct test equipment and tools to jumpstart the vehicle safely.
–I’ve Been an Auto Electrician for 15 years and install ECUs and computers into cars and never have I hurt anything from a jumpstart if the procedure is followed correctly!! Many a time you will find its dodgy leads bought from Servos that don’t allow enough current to travel through them due to bad wire or terminations. These modules are generally designed to run from 9v to 15v this very reason.
Darrin: You’re absolutely right. Unfortunately, most of our Members aren’t auto electricians!
–OK so if I need a jump start will there be anticipated damage if the positives are linked and the black (negative) lead is attached to a part of the motor/chassis? Is this now a no no?
Darrin: You are describing correct procedure. The negative lead needs to go onto a good known earth, for example unpainted metal.*
It sounds as if a 12vdc battery that drops under 9v (or whatever the individual vehicle manufacture recommends), it could cause under-voltage damage to some electrical components. Oh joy!
And if someone accidentally connects two 12vdc (12.6 actual volts) in series, the 25.2vdc is going to fry some very expensive components. Oops.
Having said that, it still seems possible to jump start a 12vdc vehicle with a 2nd 12vdc battery. Assuming you have no “dodgy leads” (aka poor electrical connections), adding a 12.6v battery in parallel with a 8.5v battery should provide the voltage needed to start the disabled vehicle without doing any additional damage to the magic boxes under the hood. It also assumes that the 2nd battery isn’t attached to a running vehicle (jumping-car isn’t running)???
Now I’m wondering if I should ground myself to the vehicle before I begin the process (yes, it’s now a process) of changing the engine oil?
Many decades ago, I owned a 4-speed Datsun Maxima. While driving 60 mph into Chicago, very late at night with temps in the teens, my engine quit. Three times. Each time, I stomped on the clutch (after bouncing off the steering wheel), and was able to bump start the engine without having to pull off the road. That was an interesting drive. I managed to get the car back home, and found that my battery had a dead cell. 12.6v minus 2.1v equal 10.5v. While looking thru the shop manual, I discovered that if the $250 ignition module didn’t receive a minimum of 10.5vdc, the ignition module wouldn’t turn on. I could crank the engine, but the spark plugs will not fire. Or in my case, the ignition would shut down and the plugs wouldn’t fire. It acted as if I had slammed on the brakes. Yippee, a new battery and a new ignition module.