# why are these watches so pricey?

**URL:** <https://boards.straightdope.com/t/why-are-these-watches-so-pricey/563113>\
**Category:** Factual Questions\
**Created:** [December 6, 2010, 4:21am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/why-are-these-watches-so-pricey/563113 "2010-12-06T04:21:04Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 17\
**Page:** 3

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**Author:** ![Novelty\_Bobble](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/n/a3d4f5/32.png) [@Novelty\_Bobble](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Novelty_Bobble)\
**Post date:** [December 8, 2010, 1:22pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/why-are-these-watches-so-pricey/563113/41 "2010-12-08T13:22:19Z")

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> [@Francis\_Vaughan](#):
>
> Just to alleviate any buyer’s remorse about the M5 Aviator - the movement is the same as the Tissot - but there are quite significant differences that can apply in the quality of the case, face, hands, strap, these can all be specified to any price and quality point by the private label customer, so the final specification of the watch may well be at a higher quality point than the simple PR50.
> 
> Anyone who hasn’t done so - before you try to compare looks feel and apparent quality - you need to actually handle the higher end watches. The level of finish quality, and quite obvious additional effort in manufacture isn’t something you can tell in a photograph or at a distance. Indeed some of it only become clear with reasonably close inspection.

It uses a movement from ETA that in Turn is owned by Swatch but the company that makes the watch is completely independent of them. Deliberately so. They were set up to produce a £1000 watch for £200. They are my kind of people.

No buyers remorse on my part. I researched carefully and took on board the advice of those that know about movements fit and finish . People that do buy and collect fine watches and their opinion is that such a watch is the equal in terms of craftsmanship, of a lower price Tag, Rolex or Breitling. You really do pay heavily for the name with such brands. (plus I consider them rather flashy and vulgar, not my taste at all).

I don’t claim mine is anything special, merely that it looks and feels nice. Is accurate and tough enough to wear daily and no-one knows what it is.

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**Author:** ![xanthous](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/x/53a042/32.png) [@xanthous](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/xanthous)\
**Post date:** [December 8, 2010, 2:54pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/why-are-these-watches-so-pricey/563113/42 "2010-12-08T14:54:09Z")

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> [@Dewey\_Finn](#):
>
> [Amazon.com](http://Amazon.com) sells grocery store items too, and I remember that a couple of years ago, some people were having fun with the reviews for a gallon of whole milk. I think [this](http://www.amazon.com/Tuscan-Whole-Milk-Gallon-128/dp/B00032G1S0/ref=sr_1_9?s=grocery&ie=UTF8&qid=1291763709&sr=1-9) is the page.

Oh my God I never knew there were such witty people outside of the Dope.

(that’s a compliment, people!)

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**Author:** ![KneadToKnow](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/kneadtoknow/32/3999_2.png) [@KneadToKnow](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/KneadToKnow)\
**Post date:** [December 8, 2010, 3:25pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/why-are-these-watches-so-pricey/563113/43 "2010-12-08T15:25:07Z")

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> [@Snarky\_Kong](#):
>
> Everyone that hasn’t read the linked gallon of milk reviews, please do so. It’ll be worth your while.

Concur.

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**Author:** ![msmith537](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/d9b06d/32.png) [@msmith537](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/msmith537)\
**Post date:** [December 8, 2010, 3:34pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/why-are-these-watches-so-pricey/563113/44 "2010-12-08T15:34:28Z")

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> [@minor7flat5](#):
>
> Fancy watches like the one in the OP are far beyond the league of Rolex. In this arena, there are several Swiss watches that have breathtaking price tags. People looking for a Tourbillon movement are hardcore watch collectors with lots of spare $$$.
> 
> …  
> Nobody who sees the watch would know how intricate it’s works are unless the person is a true watch fan, so it isn’t bought just to be bling. IMHO.
> 
> They are fitted, assembled, and embellished by hand, over several weeks.

[Rolex says suck it! If I’m paying $80 G for a watch, it’s coming with some bling!](http://www.thefinestwatches.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/catalog.viewProduct/productId/11468)

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**Author:** ![3waygeek](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/3/e95f7d/32.png) [@3waygeek](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/3waygeek)\
**Post date:** [December 8, 2010, 3:46pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/why-are-these-watches-so-pricey/563113/45 "2010-12-08T15:46:57Z")

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Apropros to this thread, I see that Formula 1 boss Bernie Ecclestone was mugged recently; part of the haul was a [Hublot watch](http://www.autosport.com/news/grapevine.php/id/88609). Not quite in the same league as the tourbillons mentioned upthread, but still pretty pricey.

At least Bernie has a sense of humour about the entire affair.

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**Author:** ![Novelty\_Bobble](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/n/a3d4f5/32.png) [@Novelty\_Bobble](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Novelty_Bobble)\
**Post date:** [December 8, 2010, 4:22pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/why-are-these-watches-so-pricey/563113/46 "2010-12-08T16:22:30Z")

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> [@msmith537](#):
>
> [Rolex says suck it! If I’m paying $80 G for a watch, it’s coming with some bling!](http://www.thefinestwatches.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/catalog.viewProduct/productId/11468)

Arrrghhhhhh! my precious retinas!

I’ve seen it, I can’t unsee it, as I believe Futurama would say

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**Author:** ![Elendil\_s\_Heir](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/e/7cd45c/32.png) [@Elendil\_s\_Heir](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Elendil_s_Heir)\
**Post date:** [December 8, 2010, 4:39pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/why-are-these-watches-so-pricey/563113/47 "2010-12-08T16:39:21Z")

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Step into this alley with me. I’ll sell you two of them for just $250 apiece. Hey, you look like a nice guy - let’s say, um, $225 apiece. Deal?

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**Author:** ![Stranger\_On\_A\_Train](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/13edae/32.png) [@Stranger\_On\_A\_Train](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Stranger_On_A_Train)\
**Post date:** [December 8, 2010, 5:33pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/why-are-these-watches-so-pricey/563113/48 "2010-12-08T17:33:02Z")

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> [@Francis\_Vaughan](#):
>
> Pretty unlikley. You are talking $100-$200 watches here. That gets you a disposable mass produced watch.

Any Omega you pick up for that price is more likely an Omaga or Omiga. That is the the lower end of the Bulova range. However, if you think the price of the premium watches genuinely reflects the craftsmanship, labor, and materials that go into the watch you are uncritically accepting the marketing prose that is the really the primary output of watch companies. Mechanical components for high end watches are produced using the same tools and methods as for mass production watches, because automation that is the way to achieve highly precise movements; the only difference is (or at least may be) in the tightness of quality control i.e. how many parts they will reject as being unsuitable. The Bulova actually provided mechanical timekeeping instruments for the Gemini and Apollo missions, as NASA was concerned that the self-winding Omega watches worn by the astronauts might not have functioned properly in freefall.

One thing that is interesting to note is that the marquee watchmakers often pitch their products as being used by “the professionals” in high action or risk fields like competitive sailing, Formula 1 racing, deep sea diving, flying, special operations, et cetera. The reality is that why these professionals may wear a Tissot or Rolex when in mufti, when they’re at work they either tend to use dedicated instruments for horometry (pilots, divers, sailors) or they use cheap but easy to read and robust digital watches (racers, special ops). The Casio G-Shock is quite prominent in such use as being easily read, having good functionality, and being nearly indestructible.

Stranger

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<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![msmith537](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/d9b06d/32.png) [@msmith537](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/msmith537)\
**Post date:** [December 8, 2010, 5:43pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/why-are-these-watches-so-pricey/563113/49 "2010-12-08T17:43:49Z")

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> [@Stranger\_On\_A\_Train](#):
>
> One thing that is interesting to note is that the marquee watchmakers often pitch their products as being used by “the professionals” in high action or risk fields like competitive sailing, Formula 1 racing, deep sea diving, flying, special operations, et cetera. The reality is that why these professionals may wear a Tissot or Rolex when in mufti, when they’re at work they either tend to use dedicated instruments for horometry (pilots, divers, sailors) or they use cheap but easy to read and robust digital watches (racers, special ops). The Casio G-Shock is quite prominent in such use as being easily read, having good functionality, and being nearly indestructible.
> 
> Stranger

Nonsense. Any aviator worth his salt wears a Breitling (according to the ads), [just like this one. It’s high precision, the diamond face can be used to cut yourself out of a wrecked airplane and it can be seen from outer space in the event you have to ditch.](http://www.essential-watches.com/Breitling-R4436563-E516-Bentley-Flying-B-Jump-Hour-Chronograph-Rose-Gold-Pave-Diamond-Case,-Dial-and-Bracelet-33017-5-w.aspx)

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**Author:** ![minor7flat5](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/minor7flat5/32/258_2.png) [@minor7flat5](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/minor7flat5)\
**Post date:** [December 8, 2010, 6:13pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/why-are-these-watches-so-pricey/563113/50 "2010-12-08T18:13:08Z")

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> [@Stranger\_On\_A\_Train](#):
>
> .However, if you think the price of the premium watches genuinely reflects the craftsmanship, labor, and materials that go into the watch you are uncritically accepting the marketing prose that is the really the primary output of watch companies. Mechanical components for high end watches are produced using the same tools and methods as for mass production watches, because automation that is the way to achieve highly precise movements; the only difference is (or at least may be) in the tightness of quality control i.e. how many parts they will reject as being unsuitable.

There is a correlation between price and quality, though it is greatly distorted by such things as usage of precious metals and marketing.

Most of the fine Swiss watches start as one of a few standard movements from [ETA](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ETA_SA), owned by The Swatch Group.  
The one major exception is Rolex: they make their own movements.

The thing is, you can find a Valjoux movement inside a two hundred dollar watch as well as a five thousand dollar watch, but they aren’t the same.  
When the watch manufacturer receives the movement (or movement blanks, called ébauches), they tune it and embellish it, to a degree that is roughly proportional to the quality of the finished product. Even if the watch back is solid, and therefore only another watchmaker would ever see the movement, the movements are often embellished and quite beautiful.

The modifications are not necessarily only aesthetic either. They tune the movements, like a custom auto tuner tweaks an off-the-rack Mustang. And the price goes up. I remember when my brother once bought a clarinet from some highly regarded clarinet finisher guy: the finished price was much more than the cost of the original high quality new instrument. This is what is going on with ETA movements.

Precious metals and marketing do distort the prices disproportionately. For example, a quick glance at Bernardwatch shows a new Rolex Submariner for $6k but the same watch in 18k gold going for $18.5k. This cost does not accurately reflect the value of the gold, nor the difficulty of working with it.

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**Author:** ![Absolute](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/a/b2d939/32.png) [@Absolute](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Absolute)\
**Post date:** [December 8, 2010, 6:17pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/why-are-these-watches-so-pricey/563113/51 "2010-12-08T18:17:30Z")

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> [@dzero](#):
>
> You know, if the idea is to appreciate the craftsmanship but you can’t actually see it since it’s sealed inside the casing, then it really isn’t much like a piece of art now is it? You have to appreciate it just based on the knowledge that it’s there. So how is that any better than knowing that your favorite piece of art is in a museum someplace? The fact that it’s on your wrist somehow makes it more real or immediate in some sense?

Pretty much all high-end mechanical watches use an [exhibition caseback](http://www.alange-soehne.com/_common/_images/Datograph/Datograph-Perpetual/06Bildergalerie_410_025_RS.jpg).

A Lange & Soehne make their own movements. I don’t think I would ever pay $60,000 for a watch with the same movement as a $300 watch, no matter how gussied up and slathered with precious metals it is, but I could definitely see myself buying one of their watches (like the Datograph pictured above).

There are some neat pictures of watch internals and the manufacturing process here:  
[http://www.alange-soehne.com/cms/en/manufactory/saxon-ingenuity/index.html](http://www.alange-soehne.com/cms/en/manufactory/saxon-ingenuity/index.html)  
[http://www.alange-soehne.com/cms/en/manufactory/contemporary-manufacturing/index.html](http://www.alange-soehne.com/cms/en/manufactory/contemporary-manufacturing/index.html)

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**Author:** ![minor7flat5](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/minor7flat5/32/258_2.png) [@minor7flat5](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/minor7flat5)\
**Post date:** [December 8, 2010, 6:23pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/why-are-these-watches-so-pricey/563113/52 "2010-12-08T18:23:55Z")

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> [@Absolute](#):
>
> Pretty much all high-end mechanical watches use an [exhibition caseback](http://www.alange-soehne.com/_common/_images/Datograph/Datograph-Perpetual/06Bildergalerie_410_025_RS.jpg).
> 
> A Lange and Soehne makes their own movements. I don’t think I would ever pay $60,000 for a watch with the same movement as a $300 watch, no matter how gussied up and slathered with precious metals it is, but I could definitely see myself buying one of their watches (like the Datograph pictured above).
> 
> There are some neat pictures of watch internals and the manufacturing process here:  
> [http://www.alange-soehne.com/cms/en/manufactory/saxon-ingenuity/index.html](http://www.alange-soehne.com/cms/en/manufactory/saxon-ingenuity/index.html)  
> [http://www.alange-soehne.com/cms/en/manufactory/contemporary-manufacturing/index.html](http://www.alange-soehne.com/cms/en/manufactory/contemporary-manufacturing/index.html)

And none of that fancy stuff like a tourbillon is going to be found on an off-the-rack ETA movement.

That’s where the real work is done in uber-fancy movements.

If I had the $$$ for a high end watch like that, I definitely would want a sapphire case back so I could enjoy the beauty of the movement.

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<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![msmith537](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/d9b06d/32.png) [@msmith537](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/msmith537)\
**Post date:** [December 9, 2010, 5:00pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/why-are-these-watches-so-pricey/563113/53 "2010-12-09T17:00:43Z")

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> [@Absolute](#):
>
> Pretty much all high-end mechanical watches use an [exhibition caseback](http://www.alange-soehne.com/_common/_images/Datograph/Datograph-Perpetual/06Bildergalerie_410_025_RS.jpg).

That’s why I sometimes wear my TAG on backwards. So I can just watch the inner workings all day.

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**Author:** ![BigT](https://sea3.discourse-cdn.com/straightdope/user_avatar/boards.straightdope.com/bigt/32/12044_2.png) [@BigT](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/BigT)\
**Post date:** [December 10, 2010, 5:59am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/why-are-these-watches-so-pricey/563113/54 "2010-12-10T05:59:46Z")

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I just don’t understand the mindset that thinks that the watch is worth so much. You guys mention art: if I want to see art, I go to a museum. If I want to own something, I get a copy. Why should I want the original, except if I’m wanting to show off to other people?

And if you value showing off to other people more than $80,000, then why don’t you show off by giving that money to them? That’ll make you friends really quick.

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**Author:** ![Stranger\_On\_A\_Train](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/13edae/32.png) [@Stranger\_On\_A\_Train](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Stranger_On_A_Train)\
**Post date:** [December 10, 2010, 7:22am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/why-are-these-watches-so-pricey/563113/55 "2010-12-10T07:22:50Z")

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> [@BigT](#):
>
> I just don’t understand the mindset that thinks that the watch is worth so much. You guys mention art: if I want to see art, I go to a museum. If I want to own something, I get a copy. Why should I want the original, except if I’m wanting to show off to other people?
> 
> And if you value showing off to other people more than $80,000, then why don’t you show off by giving that money to them? That’ll make you friends really quick.

Blake: What’s the problem, pal?  
Dave Moss: You -  
[correcting him]  
Dave Moss: Moss. You’re such a hero, you’re so rich, how come you’re coming down here wasting your time with such a bunch of bums?  
Blake: You see this watch? You see this watch?  
Dave Moss: Yeah.  
Blake: That watch costs more than you car. I made $970,000 last year. How much you make? You see pal, that’s who I am, and you’re nothing. Nice guy? I don’t give a shit. Good father? Fuck you! Go home and play with your kids. You wanna work here - close! You think this is abuse? You think this is abuse, you cocksucker? You can’t take this, how can you take the abuse you get on a sit? You don’t like it, leave.

Try pulling that off with a Timex. 😉

Stranger

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**Author:** ![Novelty\_Bobble](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/n/a3d4f5/32.png) [@Novelty\_Bobble](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/Novelty_Bobble)\
**Post date:** [December 10, 2010, 10:12am UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/why-are-these-watches-so-pricey/563113/56 "2010-12-10T10:12:28Z")

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> [@BigT](#):
>
> I just don’t understand the mindset that thinks that the watch is worth so much. You guys mention art: if I want to see art, I go to a museum. If I want to own something, I get a copy. Why should I want the original, except if I’m wanting to show off to other people?
> 
> And if you value showing off to other people more than $80,000, then why don’t you show off by giving that money to them? That’ll make you friends really quick.

It is pure dick-swinging. Always has been, always will be.

Past a fairly low income point you have all your physical needs taken care of regarding food, shelter and home comforts. Nothing you buy past this point actually makes you more comfortable.

So what’s left to do with that extra cash? For some people there is no point in having money unless you can show to others that you have money. It makes them feel good to flaunt it. It is a fairly obvious and shallow human characteristic. I wouldn’t go looking any deeper than that.

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**Author:** ![msmith537](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/d9b06d/32.png) [@msmith537](https://boards.straightdope.com/u/msmith537)\
**Post date:** [December 10, 2010, 4:34pm UTC](https://boards.straightdope.com/t/why-are-these-watches-so-pricey/563113/57 "2010-12-10T16:34:02Z")

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> [@BigT](#):
>
> I just don’t understand the mindset that thinks that the watch is worth so much. You guys mention art: if I want to see art, I go to a museum. If I want to own something, I get a copy. Why should I want the original, except if I’m wanting to show off to other people?
> 
> And if you value showing off to other people more than $80,000, then why don’t you show off by giving that money to them? That’ll make you friends really quick.

An $80000 watch is not for making friends. It’s for letting other people know they suck.

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