Sound advice would use legitimate electrical terms. Recommending a “proper” power bar, or “the best extension cord you can find” for that matter (as a few others have mentioned), is not great advice.
The only legitimate way to look at this, as a few have mentioned, is in terms of the wire ratings, and what voltage and amperage they are rated to handle.
a 25’ cord of 14AWG cable rated for 15 amps would be more than enough. Looking at a few different models of 9,000 BTU A/C units, they draw less than 10 amps - so the 14AWG cord, assuming it’s the only load on the circuit, is more than enough to use safely.
If you go with a 12AWG cord you’ll have even more extra capacity in the cord. (lower AWG rating = larger diameter of copper = more capacity).
A standard “heavy duty, 120 VAC, 15 A” extension cord will be comprised of the following:
12 AWG wires — 20 A rating
NEMA 5-15P plug — 15 A rating
NEMA 5-15R receptacle — 15 A rating
Because each of the two connectors is rated for 15 A, the entire extension cord is rated for 15 A.
They’re a bit hard to find, but you can buy a “120 VAC, 20 A” extension cord. This extension cord is comprised of the following:
12 AWG wires — 20 A rating
NEMA 5-20P plug — 20 A rating
NEMA 5-20R receptacle — 20 A rating
Because the wires and each connector are rated for 20 A, the entire extension cord is rated for 20 A. Of course, this extension cord will only be of benefit if your device has a NEMA 5-20P plug. If it has a NEMA 5-15P plug, you may as well use the cheaper and more common “120 VAC, 15 A” extension cord.
FYI, the person you’re fussing at wrote those words 7 years ago and hasn’t been seen around here in the last two years.
We have plenty of current (heh :)) conversations you might enjoy participating in. Some are even about electricity if that’s your bag.
@The rest of us old hands: Smelling a bit musty in here it is.
Thanx … I missed that scanning through the thread …
This is because of boundary layer friction … just use a bigger pipe … the alternative is undervolting the A/C unit and so there’s balance point somewhere … my concern is that if the undersized piping causes a problem, your A/C dies … if your undersized extension cord causes a problem, your house burns down (no smoke alarm, you might be dead) …
The label says to not use an extension cord … there must be a reason …
I thought perhaps I was the only person that felt as you do… Often I’ve felt I should start a thread related to such, but deferred because of what has become the accepted norm here. Apparently electrical work doesn’t maintain the same* cachet* as medical or legal situations among the elders of SDMB… Even though misunderstood electrical advice, or outright faulty opinion may cause great financial harm and/or loss of life… For some convoluted reason, it’s considered OK in GQ.:smack:
I bought two of the HiSense 9000 units - one each for two adjacent rooms.
This being a built-to-code-but-barely cookie-cutter house, the two rooms share a single 15 amp circuit. Two units turns out to be 1 unit too many for the circuit.
I have an old, heavy-duty (14 or 16 ga.) exterior-rated cord - yellow, about 1/2" in diameter.
Surprise! it came from Home Depot several years ago when they till has a few decent items amidst the crap.
It is 25’ long.
One of the A/C units is plugged into it - the other end goes out a window and into a window in the kitchen - where it is plugged into a 20 amp circuit.
The unit runs continuously for over two weeks and the cord has never gotten so much as warm.
Confirmation bias … everyday you come home from work and your house didn’t burn down … now you think your “install” is perfectly safe … that’s not how risk exposure works …
When the insurance adjusted inspects, he’ll find that 16 gauge cord connected to the A/C unit … he may refuse your claim because of that …
Perhaps you saved the typing and didn’t say you were going through all the outlets in the daisy chain and opening up the service cover and checked those connections … because just holding the cord end in your hand isn’t enough to really check for fire hazards …
Seems to be a mistake in wording – perhaps what you meant to say is that NYC doesn’t allow 20A receptacles unless they are of the “T-prong” type. Then your statement about code in Canada would be correct, where 20A receptacles must be of the 20A rated “T-prong” type (to the best of my understanding). The extra slot in the receptacle accommodates the special 20A plugs which, as you say, are designed so they cannot be plugged into an ordinary 15A receptacle. They are certainly compliant with code; every outlet in my kitchen is 20A T-prong.
This is very convenient for plugging in all zero of the 20A appliances that I own or will ever own!
As for the extension cord question, I’d follow the advice here about properly sizing the right gauge of heavy extension cord, but after it’s in operation I would pay special attention to the connection points – the A/C plug and extension cord end it plugs into, the other end of the extension cord at the plug, and the receptacle itself – those are the most likely points to start heating up. And of course the extension wire itself should stay totally cool to the touch.
I have a small refrigerator hooked up to an appliance extension cord (dryer cord). Shortest length possible. I think the warnings are to cover the manufacturers ass because of the above mentioned. Dummies using Lamp Cord type extension cords for heavy appliances. I have only one in use. It has a small adapter for my network switch. IIRC less power use than a phone charger. I refuse to use those lamp cord ones in any other situation. Safety risk, they look like crap, feel flimsy and usually don’t hold 3 prongs (that should be enough to say they are unsafe).
Related question, why the hell do they even manufacture “cheater” plugs anymore?
Older houses without electrical work do not have to be brought up to code. I have to be able to plug my monitor into the closest outlet that is only two pronged. (Ungrounded) My PC and printer took over the nearby 3-pronged outlets.
Understood, I meant more as a liability thing for the companies that make them(cheater plugs), due to a lot of people using them improperly. To clarify about the small refrigerator (not mini), it uses 18/3 so I connect it to a short 14/3 appliance cord (overkill), I should’ve mentioned that in my post since an A/C unit and refrigerator are large appliances, similar rules about bigger wires apply. That post was pointless lol.
For the OP, you can usually find the gauge written or stamped on the cord of the Air conditioner, should say (##AWG/3C). So just get an appliance cord with enough length (as short as you can get away with) and a bigger gauge (lower number) than the A/C unit, should cost about $10 at most for a quality one.
P.S. i’m not pretending to know much about anything here, just what i’ve learned so far.
I’m retired - I am here 7/24. It not only has yet to get warm, it is in a 20 amp circuit. That circuit may have a toaster in it briefly. Otherwise the A/C has the circuit to itself.
I do not have ready access to the handbook of wire gauge/length/capacity, but this thing is probably good for at least 10 amps.
What is a “service cover”?
The bedroom circuits are 15 amp. The 4-5 20 amp breakers are for garage and kitchen.
As I said, the cord is exterior rated, 14 or 16 AWG. The A/C pulls less than 10, based of all that is on the 15 amp circuit the other A/C is on.
I re-wired a 1918 house and added a separate panel for the inlaw unit. Book said 8AWG would run 20’ or so. I ran 10’.
I think I am safe with wiring.
Back when I was poor, I lived in a house operated on the very cheap. I had occasion to visit the basement. The place was wired with extension cords form the dime store.
He actually ran the 18 GA (max) into the outlet boxes and switch boxes. From the user view, it was normal wiring.
Even that place survived questionable wiring.
Speaking of which - when I moved in, I found the stove dead. Its outlet (220)was dead.
The 40 amp breaker (Zinsco, no less) had been re-purposed for the pool.
Which left the wires for the stove exposed. They are aluminum. I don’t use the stove much.
I’m imagining looking at your house and I see an extension cord running along the outside between these windows, and for months at a time … that’s not exact something that’s common … I’m only speculating when I say it’s because such an arrangement is unsafe … mostly I see the wiring on the outside of a building enclosed in a metal pipe …
“I do not have ready access to the handbook of wire gauge/length/capacity, but this thing is probably good for at least 10 amps.”
The handbook says 12 gauge minimum for a 20 amp circuit …
You should call an electrician, have them come out and look … there’s a few things you’re posting that don’t pass the smell test … seriously, if your house burns down for whatever reason, the insurance company will send someone out to find a reason to not pay you … like using an extension cord on an A/C unit that explicitly says not to, especially if the extension cord is too small … which in your case, it is …
This pulls nowhere near 20 - which is why it is happy sucking on a dedicated 20 amp outlet.
There is no warning on these units against “extension cords” that I have seen.
I suspect the warning is because, to too many folks, “extension cord” is the $.99 item at the dime store, running 18 or 20 ga. Those are good for a single light bulb.
When I cut a length of 12 ga Romex and put a plug on one end and an outlet on the other, is it an “extension cord” or a “Temp 20 amp circuit”?
My apologies then … the case in the OP is with a warning about extension cords …
A piece of romex with cord caps is just a piece of romex with cord caps … I guess we could call it an extension cord … but it wouldn’t be UL listed … the extension cords that are listed will have thicker insulation and be more resistant to mechanical damage … plus the store bought ones are made of stranded wire instead of solid wire so they’re easier to manage …
A fifty foot 12 gauge extension cord will run you about $50 … that’s best value IMEIO …
