I don’t shoot flight. Just between you and me, I opted for training wheels. I know, I know… I’m a wuss, but I shoot sooooo much better with a compound. I do tinker with my equipment and have robin hooded a few shafts at 30 yds. Ouch.
I’ll just throw out a few idea’s and hopefully they’ll be of some use to you.
The lighter the arrow, the more shock, stress, and vibration will be transmitted to the bow. Zero grains per inch = a dryfire and a dryfire can destroy a bow.
For maximum distance, it’s seems reasonable to maximize the poundage. Are you pulling 50lb and to what anchor point? You’re not limited to a point on your face or to your ear or to your back shoulder.
War bows were shot by “bending the bow”. Push with the bow hand and rotate your string hands ELBOW until it either can’t rotate around any farther or the shaft is near your face. DO NOT WEAR GLASSES, HATS, EAR RINGS, OR PIERCINGS if you intend to try this. I bought an inexpensive 25# @ 28" recurve to practice this. This technique will remove eye glasses very quickly and painfully. My draw is 31" to the corner of my mouth. Finding ready-made arrow shafts 8" - 10" longer was impossible, so I “attempted” to make my own out of cedar and hardwood dowels. I did manage to “bend the bow” but the shafts weren’t accurate. Oh well.
You might want to build a draw board to see how well your bow limbs responds to bending. At one end of the draw board, peg(s) hold the bow at the grip throat On the other end of the draw board you attach a small boat winch or pulley arrangement. Attach one end of a scale to the end of the winch rope. Attach the other end of the scale to the bowstring and slowly pull the string back. The scale should should show a somewhat linier progression. Some bows “stack” or plateau at different points which makes the bows more difficult to shoot and may waste energy.
You might want to build a wind tunnel to test your points, vanes, shafts, and completed arrows. A blower, 2 - 3 sides of plywood and 1 or 2 sides of plexiglass. Screw them together but leave an access port. Use a box(es) of plastic straws to channel and smooth the air flow. You’ll need a solid stand to hold your arrows or drill a hole thru the shaft at various FOC locations.
Vane placement and straightness is also important. I put a slight spin on my arrows with a Bitzenburger. They do have straight clamps. There are other jigs also. Consistancy, consistancy, consistancy.
I find an arrow “spin tester” usefull when sorting shafts and fletched arrows. Some shafts have a “heavy” side. Some glued vanes are heavier than others.
There are also arrow spine testers but those are kinda expensive.
I seem to remember an old article by an English flight shooter (champion?) who said that 28" barreled shafts where the most efficient size and shape. I know that longer canoes and sailing ships are smoother and therefore faster thru the water and air is just thin water. I could shoot 28" arrows with an overdraw or extended mechanical release.