Woodworkers or musicians: I built a box that rattles when I hit it(I don’t want it to rattle). Help?

[swampspruce]

Gorilla glue is a popular one.

[Shadowfyre]

@FluffyBob

That is a good point. The website for the product says the material is Baltic Birch. Looking at the pictures it quite obviously is Baltic Birch Plywood which is a high grade plywood and typically has few if any voids. The cut edge of Baltic Birch is often bullnosed and used as a finished edge for things like drawer boxes because of the lack of voids. When I have found voids in it they are usually very small and I doubt would produce a rattle though.

I would still try the chair glue. The ‘crazy’ glue is of course not typically used for wood joints because it is so thin, however in this case its function is to be drawn in to fine gaps and bond them and that is where it shines. That is why it is used to fix stone chips in windshields. If the glue does not work, yes it will make disassembly even more difficult.

Part of my job is actually restoring cabinets and built-in woodwork. I often replace damaged components of woodwork where possible rather than replacing whole assemblies. A well glued joint can be very difficult to take apart, but I will at least try first. Carefully working the joint with a olfa cutter, putty knife and glazing bar to get it open is the basic approach. I would then re-mill the surfaces to get them to good bonding condition.

Looking at the pictures, the joints appear to be simple butt joints. If changing the dimensions of the object by 1/8 - 3/16" inch is not going to be a big problem I would simply cut the offending side off the box with a table saw. Set the table saw so the blade is just barely higher than the material thickness and cut through the joint. Eighteen gauge brad nails are not a problem but do not use your prize blade. Use a sheet of sacrificial hardboard of MDF underneath to minimize tear-out. You should be left with nice clean joint surfaces, if not reset the saw as necessary and run the pieces through again to clean them up.

The top and bottom are glued into rabbetson the sides. Not simple butt joints.

I really doubt that there is any issues with construction here. The baltic birch should not be rattling due to voids, since BB is known to be mostly void free. The glue, screws and nails should be enough to prevent the wood from moving at the joints when being tapped as in the video.

The kit that the OP linked to includes a snarethat is installed against the playable surface to purposely give it a rattle-like sound. I really just think you’re hearing the snare on that side.

[GaryM]

@Rhythmdvl

Also, there are many cajons with snares or other bits inside to add flourish; this is not one of them.

No snares on this drum!

[Rhythmdvl]

Right, no snares. In the OP I accidentally linked to the full-sized cajon kit, which might be throwing things a bit off. The walls aren’t that thick (this isn’t weight bearing), no rubber feet, no screws, and there are no snares (and our main cajon has jangles—no snares there either!).

Another thing I don’t have is a table saw (yet), so any cutting would have to be done on a band saw. It’s a nice, stable 14’ Jet with a riser, so a small-kerf blade and a good sled should help if it comes to that. But cutting it off then sanding things smooth seems a daunting project—even if it comes off with razor blades tapped into the joint, the thinness of the wood may make sanding it down a bit problematic.

I can order chair glue (is there a noticeable difference between brands, ex. A/B?). It seems there is a difference between these and Gorilla Glue in that their lower viscosity will more easily run into the joint and pores of the wood. I’m also cautious that Gorilla Glue’s expansion might actually separate the pieces.

Or would reinforcing it be the better tack? I’d reinforce by adding a surface to screw in to. I can’t see successfully driving fasteners through the top and into the plywood sides. The walls are too thin to take much, and the slight angle makes it likely that one will come through the wall.

But what if I added a bit inside? What if I took a [½ square] x [width of the box] piece and glue it flush against the inside wall and the top? Then countersink holes and screw the addition to the side for strength and then through the top to pull it down? If that doesn’t make too much sense, I basically want to do thisso that it ends up like this(these are side views).

Because the top/side joint isn’t perfectly 90 degrees, would it help to use clay or something to gauge the angle to try and match on the reinforcement block?

If this makes sense, are there any pitfalls or whatnot to be aware of/pay attention to? If done well, and it’s tight against the sides (I’d cut to almost length and then sand down to ‘just fit’ size), will it likely solve the problem?

If it explains why I’m fussing over this rather than starting from scratch, it was an anniversary gift—so figuring it out from here is kind of important.

Thanks~

[Chefguy]

@Rhythmdvl

But what if I added a bit inside? What if I took a [½ square] x [width of the box] piece and glue it flush against the inside wall and the top? Then countersink holes and screw the addition to the side for strength and then through the top to pull it down? If that doesn’t make too much sense, I basically want to do thisso that it ends up like this(these are side views).

Because the top/side joint isn’t perfectly 90 degrees, would it help to use clay or something to gauge the angle to try and match on the reinforcement block?

If this makes sense, are there any pitfalls or whatnot to be aware of/pay attention to? If done well, and it’s tight against the sides (I’d cut to almost length and then sand down to ‘just fit’ size), will it likely solve the problem?

If it explains why I’m fussing over this rather than starting from scratch, it was an anniversary gift—so figuring it out from here is kind of important.

Thanks~

This would be my preferred solution. Right now you have so little contact surface, that even your best effort would likely fail. Adding a nailer to the inside edges would give you something to attach to and the added benefit of negating your bowed side lifting the joint. I’d add a bead of wood glue, then screw it and perhaps even clamp it using a piece of wood to span the width of the clamped joint (or glue/clamp first, then add the screws). You can probably eyeball to see if the piece will match up to the non-90 degree and then just hand plane the new piece to get it close. Or run out and buy a sliding T-bevel and get it exact.

[GaryM]

If you do take the top off and want to ensure the new surface is flat here’s what I’d try to do.

Take an existing flat surface such as a countertop, check for flatness with a steel rule in various directions, and adhere sandpaper to this surface. Then sand the surface to which the top will be glued. Rotate the sides once in a while and you should get a perfectly flat surface on to which you may glue your drum top.

[Rhythmdvl]

@Chefguy

Or run out and buy a sliding T-bevel and get it exact.

I’m sorry, my monitor is on the fritz and I couldn’t quite read the screen. Did you say “run out and buy a table saw” ?

@GaryM

If you do take the top off and want to ensure the new surface is flat here’s what I’d try to do.

Take an existing flat surface such as a countertop, check for flatness with a steel rule in various directions, and adhere sandpaper to this surface. Then sand the surface to which the top will be glued. Rotate the sides once in a while and you should get a perfectly flat surface on to which you may glue your drum top.

I’m sorry, my monitor is on the fritz and I couldn’t quite read the screen. Did you say “run out and buy a sharpening station”?

[Chefguy]

@Rhythmdvl

I’m sorry, my monitor is on the fritz and I couldn’t quite read the screen. Did you say “run out and buy a table saw” ?

I’m sorry, my monitor is on the fritz and I couldn’t quite read the screen. Did you say “run out and buy a sharpening station”?

Shoot, you could build that yourself without a whole lot of effort and for a lot less money.